Discussion in 'HO Scale Model Trains' started by oldtanker, Nov 24, 2006.

  1. oldtanker

    oldtanker Member

    sign1 I'll bet!

  2. fsm1000

    fsm1000 Member

    That's why I hand lay my track :D:D:D
    Much easier then 'flextrack' LOL :D
    Well for me it is anyhow :)
  3. oldtanker

    oldtanker Member

    Stephen, I darn near cut my thumb off 7 weeks ago working on the house, then while healing whacked that thumb several driving 16d you really think I, of all people should be hand laying track.......LOL

  4. nkp174

    nkp174 Active Member

    I'd recommend trying it on a small siding or something. It's actually quite fun, and it doesn't open you up to harm ;-) I use ties from Kappler and cork roadbed...not much effort is needed as I drive my spikes in. Most people use needle nose pliers for this. Also, some people forgo the spiking and just use glue.
  5. oldtanker

    oldtanker Member

    nkp, I may try it but I don't really think that will be something for me, flex track looks so much easyer.....

  6. fseva

    fseva Member

    That it is! Hand-laid track looks great, and may not be too difficult - just time-consuming. What you really have to wonder about though, is turnouts. If you hand-lay your track, stock turnouts will look too "manufactured" next to your track. And I'm SURE you won't want to hand-lay your turnouts! :D
  7. fsm1000

    fsm1000 Member

    You know hmmm ... well... hmmm LOL :D

    Actually I glue my rails down for the most part and really it isn't that hard.
    Pop on over to my site ok? I show how to do it easily:D

    I also show how to make stub turnouts but you can apply it to regular ones as well.
    I think you will be surprised at how easy it really is. At first it is time consuming but after a while you can do it pretty fast.

    Dyeing the ties takes time but you can do that while you do something else.
    Once that is done it goes down just about as fast as flextrack. You have to spread out the glue then lay the ties, or with flex you lay down the track and nail or glue it in place, so essentially the same thing.

    Anyhow, pop on over and give it a whirl:D

    You might like it ;)
  8. Quinn222

    Quinn222 Member

    I've been planning on flextrack with hand laid turnouts. I don't like the looks of stock turnouts and the ones I found here:

    Look like something I could manage to do without too much difficulty. Hand laying all the track though seems very time consuming.
  9. oldtanker

    oldtanker Member

    Quinn thanks, that looks really cool. I think what I may do is go with flextrack now just to "git er done" and then look into the turn outs. I could over a couple of months build enough to redo whatever I come up with, by then I would have pin pointed problem areas and what I could do better!

  10. fseva

    fseva Member

    Now, there's a smart man - one who knows his limitations, but is willing to keep the door open for later on! Congratulations - I think you made the right decision for your circumstances! :D
  11. oldtanker

    oldtanker Member

    OK some more questions for you guys....

    how far apart on center should track be laid for both switch yards and dual main lines?

    is cork roadbed laid side by side touching give the correct spacing?

    Anyone know where I can find decent F7A engines undecorated. I'm going to paint each a different color and get the printer decal paper and put my grand kids names on the sides for each one. So far I have one F7 but I will need 7 more, 5 soon and one in February and another in July! So far Conner wants black, Seth Camo, Rick blue, Vivian purple, Sam red and Kelton doesn't care as long as it's a train!


  12. rfmicro

    rfmicro Member

    My apologies as I have not read all 5 pages of the thread. For HO I believe the standard separation is 2.5-inches center to center. The NMRA web site should also have that information should you need to double check.


  13. oldtanker

    oldtanker Member

    thanks Trent, NMRA? I will check it out.

  14. fseva

    fseva Member

    Here is where a TOOL is a big help - MLR makes a parallel track laying tool (catalog #479-5002).

    Cork is available in sheets that can be used for yards or dual mainline.
    357-1518 by Itty Bitty Lines is beveled like regular cork roadbed. You'll have to remove some of the inside of the sheet to get dual mainline and retain your bevels. There are other choices for cork roadbed, though. So, just go with what's easiest to find.
  15. oldtanker

    oldtanker Member

    Ok thanks FSE

  16. Russ Bellinis

    Russ Bellinis Active Member

    Rick, are these F-7's you want to get actually for the kids to run? If so, the standard Athearn r-t-r is probably your best bet. I don't know if they are available as undecorated anymore, but soaking the body in Pine Sol for a few minutes will loosen the paint so that you can easily scrub it off with an old tooth brush.
  17. oldtanker

    oldtanker Member

    Russ yes, that will be what they get to run on the layout. I figure that way if they break them it's cheap and easy to replace or repair! These grand kids are still small, the oldest being 8.

    I looked at Athearn's web site. They don't list any undecorated F7s. But the tip on stripping them is great, thanks!

    I will post pictures of them as I get them done!

  18. fsm1000

    fsm1000 Member

    My rule is simple really. "Do I have enough room for my fingers?" LOL That's how I do it anyhow :D
  19. nkp174

    nkp174 Active Member

    Rick, you can always just paint over the existing paint scheme. A pencil eraser can be used to erase some brands lettering.
  20. Russ Bellinis

    Russ Bellinis Active Member

    I just thought of something else. This thread started so long ago that I don't remember if you are going to do dc or dcc. If you are doing dcc, you can get dcc ready Bachmann ft's which will look a lot like f7 for a very good price. I think I saw them at a local hobby shop for less than $30.00 with the decoder installed r-t-r. The Bachmann shell can be stripped the same way as the Athearn shell. On the Bachmann, the fuel tank clips on to the frame. If you remove the fuel tank shell, you will find 2 screws going up from the bottom. Remove the screws and the shell comes off. I think you may need to remove the couplers as well.

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