Has to be a Helix

Pitchwife

Dreamer
Mike, I really like your idea of using nuts and washers instead of tubing for spacers on the threaded shaft. It would give a lot more control and flexability. That's the beauty of forums like this, many minds coming together with a lot of good ideas.
Gary, I bet you got your idea from a recent issue of MR. There was an article about a layout that did exactly what you are talking about.

Clark
 

Gary Pfeil

Active Member
Clark, Which idea is that? The helix is 4 years old already, I guess you mean the thought of a seperate scene totally unrelated to the rest of the layout? I honestly don't know which you mean but you know what they say about great minds thinking alike!<G>
And nuts with washers on threaded rod seems like the way to go, use some loctite when positioned correctly.

Gary
 

Pitchwife

Dreamer
Hi Gary. Sorry about being vague. I was refering to your idea of a short winter scene. In the August issue of MR they showed a layout that for the most part was a summer scene. However in one corner they had a short section, probably not more than two feet with tunnel portals on each side that was a winter scene. It was visually seperated from the rest of the layout so it didn't detract from the overall effect. Although I am no fan of winter and my world will be forever summer, it looked pretty nice.
 

Gary Pfeil

Active Member
Hi Clark, I'll have to look for that article, I'd like to check it out. About 8 years ago when I lived in an apartment with a 10x11 room available for a railroad, I considered a layout with one wall having each season. Didn't do it but still have the urge to do a winter scene. It's pretty much a daydream for now, there is so much to do first!

Gary
 

Pitchwife

Dreamer
Hi Rich
I tried your link but never could get it to work. Maybe you could post the formula. Then I could find out that my design won't work. :D
 

Pitchwife

Dreamer
Hey Rich. I just tried it again and couldn't get the page to load. All I get is "this page cannot be displayed" message. Don't know what the problem is. I'm using IE5.1 if that makes any difference. I'll keep at it. Sounds like a good download.
 

marty w.

Member
Pitch,
Sorry. The first web site I listed should have what you need.
Look under Helix Calculator towards the end of the page.
Marty
 

Pitchwife

Dreamer
Hi Marty
I tried the helix calculators and either I did something wrong entering the figures, or I don't remember my trig functions. That or there is another factor that I'm not taking into consideration. I guess that the only way I'll know for sure is to build a prototype model and see how it comes out. I'm keeping my toes crossed. :)
 

Pitchwife

Dreamer
Rich, it came through and works just fine. Still not exactly the figures I came up with on my own, but close enough. The grade is a little steeper than what I came up with, but it will be hidden, so as long as a loco will pull it there shouldn't be a problem. This would be a valuable tool for anyone contemplating building a helix. Thanks for both yours and Marty's help.
Clark

ps: this photo from the Widow Creek Layout Photo spread shows something that I would never have thought of, an intermediary entrance and exit. This really shows some smart design work.
 

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Seen Pictures of your Helix

Clark, I have built a double track helix (24 and 26" radius). The grade is certainly a consideration. I model the 50's, and do not use dome cars, I measured my tallest equipment and found that I could get by with 2 5/8" clearance. The other major factor is the thickness of the roadbed. I used 3/4" plywood. so my total rise per revolution was 3 3/8" This works out to about 2 1/4% grade. Mine has been in operation for a couple years with no problem. Realize however, the trackwork needs to be perfect the first time, you will not be able to relay it later. I had 16" wide 4' long shelves which I cut into 1/4 of a circle. I used a router to remove 3/8" from the top of one end and the bottom of the other end of each 90 degree piece. These were screwed and glued together. I assembled three pieces, then laid track on them (also ran a buss wire and soldered feeds at this point) when finished with track and wiring on the first three sections, I assembled the next three sections and so on. I used pieces of 1x3 to separate the layers as I went. When complete, I ripped 2x4's in half to get 2x2 and these then had slots cut into them (I set my tablesaw blade at 1/2" and made several cuts side by side to obtain a 3/4" wide slot 1/2" deep) The slots were 2 5/8" apart. I then tapped these into place on the 3/4" roadbed and they maintain my clearance as well as serve as a means to hold the helix in place on my benchwork. I should mention that I am no carpenter and my helix isn't pretty, but it works.

Gary

Gary, being an old cabinet builder, I've seen pictures of your helix, and I think it is just fine, anyway it's not supposed to be a piano case right? Will you be building a mountain scape around it and or inside of it?

Duane
 

Gary Pfeil

Active Member
Thanks Duane, you sure brought a really old thread back to life! I still have done nothing around the helix, though I still think I'll build that winter scene I mentioned someday. However I am geting ready to build the turntable which goes over the center of the helix. I am glad to report the helix still operates near perfectly, I've had no troubles with the annual drastic swings of humidity in my unfinished basement.
 
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