Grrrr...Help Please!?!?!?

Discussion in 'Weathering Forum' started by iis612, Aug 8, 2008.

  1. iis612

    iis612 Member

    I am trying to add mortar lines to a DPM kit. I washed the parts carefully and allowed them to air dry. I prepared a wash of Floquil Concrete using a 30:1 ratio of 70% isopropyl alcohol and the paint. I made certain that the paint was well mixed before extracting the amount needed using a plastic pipette. I mixed them in a washed out glass baby food jar and shook them to mix. The first thing I noticed was the paint sticking to the inside of the jar. When I opened the lid there was no wash just some slightly discolored alcohol and a concrete colored jar. I then used an old brush to mix the wash. Upon doing so I tried to apply it to the wall pilaster. It painted the pilaster. It did not apply like a wash. I tried to wipe the paint off of the pilaster immediately but it did not come off. What am I messing up here?

  2. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

    If you're using Floquil paint, use either Floquil's thinner, which is Diosol, or use lacquer thinner, which works just as well but is a lot cheaper. ;)
    While Floquil paints are my favourite for airbrushing, they are not suitable for use as a wash, especially on plastic, as the solvent in the paint will attack the plastic. For a wash, try PollyScale paints, which are water-based and can be thinned with water or alcohol. They also are available in the same colours as Floquil.
    Lacquer-based paints such as Floquil can be used on plastics, but it's best to apply them with an airbrush: the lacquer evaporates quickly when sprayed, so causes no damage. When applied with a brush, too much solvent is present on the surface of the plastic, causing "crazing". Lacquer thinner, by the way, is an excellent cement for styrene due to this property.

  3. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

    Pre-mixed drywall mud makes good brick "mortar". After painting the assembled structure a suitable brick colour, use a rag over your fingertip to apply a coat of mud to all of the "brick" surfaces. Once it dries (usually, only a few minutes), use a clean rag to wipe away the excess from the face of the bricks. I didn't bother with a clear overspray, and later weathered mine with washes of thinned PollyScale paint. Brick colour used here was Floquil's Reefer Orange.
    Apologies for the large picture, but it shows the brick detail better. :eek:;)

  4. Herc Driver

    Herc Driver Active Member

    Funny you should ask this question because I'm wondering exactly the same thing! (Are you working HO or NScale btw? I'm doing Nscale.) I think I'm going to try the drywall mud tomorrow after painting a building brick color as Wayne suggests. The mortor lines on these DPM kits are so small, I'm not sure I'll even be able to get the drywall mud in them. I'll probably try to add just a small amount of water to the mix to thin it out and see how it goes. But I'm worried that since I handpainted the structures, I got the paint on thicker than if I had airbrushed them and too thick to accept the drywall mud.

    Oh well, I'll give it a shot tonight and see how it goes. At least since they're already painted, I can just wash off the drywall mud if it doesn't go well.

    Let us know what technique worked for you.
  5. TrainNut

    TrainNut Ditat Deus

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