Kind of hard to explain, but here goes... thanks for reading BTW... I bought an Athearn Dash-9 loc, the six axle type, hoping that it would go around my layout. Well, at first it didn't. My curves are "about" 20" radius, so I figured that would be okay. I am using Peco code 100 flex. I have endpoints of track coming together on two curves that I couldn't avoid, and that is where it is derailing. With the flextrack, on a curve, where two pieces of track come together, it is hard to maintain the curve radius, as the the ends tend to point outward as one would expect. So I have two questions. How do we maintain the curve radius around these points? And, since I have already laid my track, how am I going to "push" the track in, to eliminate that point in the track that was created? I have it somewhat rigged now with the track pushed in, and I have no derailments at all, so that was the problem. I just don't know how I will affix the track. As I said, I am using Peco code 100 flex, and have it glued to Woodlands scenics foam trackbed. I glued it with "Tacky glue" that I got at Micheals, which seems to work well in this hobby. Thanks all.
Goofy question about affixing track...
- Thread starter joefryfry
- Start date
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Sounds like you have a problem. Thats going to require some fooling around to solve. You will probably have to pull the ends of your track up from the roadbed and try to bend the last inch or so of the rails to make it approximate the curve radius. If you can use track nails at the end s of the sections, I would suggest doing that when you put it back down. Other folks will have some solutions too.
Latex caulk is a good thing to hold track down with too. Tacky glue is just thick white glue, but should work fine too.
Longer term, you'll be better off to solder any joints on a curve (before flexing the track into a curve) and then bend and affix it. That will help keep the track from "kinking" at the joint. It also helps to slightly offset the joint so that both rails don't join at exactly the same spot.
Longer term, you'll be better off to solder any joints on a curve (before flexing the track into a curve) and then bend and affix it. That will help keep the track from "kinking" at the joint. It also helps to slightly offset the joint so that both rails don't join at exactly the same spot.
Not sure how todo it with the combo you have. If the roadbed were a bit stiffer, I woul use a series of spikes to push the joint into position.
You might try forcing a bend in the rails with pliers: hold one set straight up and use the other to bend the rail -- a touch farther than you want and let it spring back. Might have to repeat. Take off the rail joiner because you have to do both ends separately. Do this over about an inch of rail; you will have to move the pliers a few times.
Next time, solder the rail ends together before you lay the curve.
You might try forcing a bend in the rails with pliers: hold one set straight up and use the other to bend the rail -- a touch farther than you want and let it spring back. Might have to repeat. Take off the rail joiner because you have to do both ends separately. Do this over about an inch of rail; you will have to move the pliers a few times.
Next time, solder the rail ends together before you lay the curve.
I've only used this solution a couple times as it is not the greatest way to fix this problem but under certain circumstances, it works. It also takes three hands... push in on the rail with a screwdriver or other pointed object enough to counteract the kink, use your soldering gun, reheat the joint and apply more solder. After the joint has cooled, remove the screwdriver. Sometimes, this quick and dirty fix is enough to fix the kink in the corner... sometimes not. If it looks like there is improvement, do the other rail. Then all you have to worry about is if it is still in gauge or not. If not, it may take some more tweaking/bending. Sometimes it is just best to cut out the bad joint and splice in a new section of track.
You might also try laying a piece of 22 inch radius curved sectional track over the flex track. If it will line up at the ends, cut off the flex track to insert the sectional piece including cutting the tie plates to allow the joiners to slide back on the flex track and allow the sectional piece to drop in.
Thanks for the help guys. I still am not sure what I will do. I went to lengths to avoid the exact problem that happened, anticipating the fact that I wanted a six axle engine.