Gondola scrap load article

Discussion in 'HO Scale Model Trains' started by mhdishere, Jan 20, 2005.

  1. mhdishere

    mhdishere Member

    As promised, I've been working on an article for the e-magazine on building the scrap load for a gondola.

    Scrap load in a gon

    I've run into a snag though, I put all the stuff in the gon, added glue, and waited a few days. I checked it, it seemed like the glue was hardening, so I pulled the load out and spilled 50:50 white-glue-and-water all over my work bench, my clothes, even on my nice suede, fleece lined slippers :curse: :curse: :curse: :curse: :curse:

    So now the question is why did it work the first time, when I didn't know what I was doing, and not the second, when I (theorectially) DO know what I'm doing? Thinking back, I remember that when I built the first load I put stuff in the gon, added glue, waited for it to dry, then realized I didn't have enough and added a second layer and more glue. I guess is that, when I did the whole thing at once, the top layer of glue (in contact with the air) set up and formed a barrier that kept the glue lower down from setting. On top of that, I think I just used too much glue the second time.

    So the article (with pictures) is still in progress, and as my Daddy used to say "You live and learn, then you die and forget it all".
  2. SAL Comet

    SAL Comet Member

  3. mhdishere

    mhdishere Member

    Unfortunately, hindsight is always 20/20. Foresight can be a problem.
  4. Fred_M

    Fred_M Guest

    If I may, white glue needs to loose water to dry. It's never really been good for use on plastics. It works on foam because it can lock into the holes. But if you take two pieces of foam and put a bunch of white glue on them and clamp them together with weights the glue dries on the outer edges and seals the inner glue which I seen still wet 6 months later when I cut into it for a lake. I would try something like goo for sticking your loads in, or epoxy, or gel CA, or even RTV silicone. Fred
  5. CalFlash

    CalFlash Member

    Don't you just hate it when that happens? :(

    Reminds me of the time I used too much glue in glueing a load of coal in a freshly painted engine (well - the tender actually). Seems (no pun intended) there were enough gaps to let it flow all over the workbench :oops:
  6. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

    Just wait 'til the glue runs out and then secures your model to the workbench! Been there, done that :rolleyes:

  7. Mike P

    Mike P New Member

    I have had with some good success using super glue and accelerator. I do some wood butchering and I got into using the super glues for wood. I accidentally tore out a section of rail when I was cleaning off of the bed's excessive ballast. I had to replace the bed, track and ballast It was a section about 18" long. I was forced to use the cork road bed, I could not get the Black Top stuff.

    I thought how can I quickly tack the cork bed in place. I spied the super glue! A small stream down on the plywood, a spritz of accelerator and I was done in seconds. Carefull around plastic with that stuff, I used clear tub and tile caulk for putting the track down, carefull to mind not too much of that stuff. Now to replace the ballast, super glue & accelerator to the rescue. In one night I had the entire repair done and looking as if nothing happned. The wood workers supply store has large 2 oz bottels of that stuff, $8.00USD & I used about 1 bottle. Not that I would use super glue everywhere, but let me tell you for quick repairs or fast reballasting or ballasting in critical areas, my I recomend superglue?

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