Gluing Tips

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by JRSeese, Feb 28, 2004.

  1. JRSeese

    JRSeese Member

    I have elmer's white and UHU clear paper craft glue. Right now I think I like the clear UHU better, but I'm wondering about my technique. I don't have any experienced acquaintances apart from this board, so hoping for some advice. BTW - Have looked at the FAQ's, and they have a lot of opinions on which glues are preferred, but not so much how to actually use them.

    Is it necessary to glue both surfaces or just one? If just one, does it matter if you select the glossy finished surface or the matte back of the card?

    Do you apply the glue and then immediately join the surfaces, or wait before joining? Or doesn't any of this stuff really matter?

    Heard that crazy glue is appropriate in some circumstances, but the package says not to use on paper. When would crazy glue be good to use?

    I know these are the most basic of questions but I am a little obsessive about these kinds of details and want to know I'm doing it right

  2. bwallaw

    bwallaw Member

    Hi Josh

    I'm pretty new at this myself and have been exploring glue information too. Haven't tried the UHU glue but I recall you mentioning it was stringy.

    From other forums and model instructions I've encountered, the usual recommendation is to glue only one piece, usually the part you glueing. But I think there may be some situations you might have to break this rule.

    Gil just recommended a medium viscosity CA for small parts over in the Tools of the Trade forum, which I have yet to try.

    Details are part of the fun I figure...
  3. JRSeese

    JRSeese Member

    I feel foolish asking questions like this when I realize the overall level of expertise suffusing the ether around here!

    "CA" is the equivalent of crazy or super glue, right? Stands for cyanoacrylate...? The Card Modeling FAQ actually suggests using CA and white elmer's glue in tandem

    Honestly with my tendency to get glue everywhere I shy away from CA, I'm liable to get my finger permanently stuck in a less than flattering location :wink:
  4. cardfan

    cardfan Member

    Whenever I use CA I use an applicator that holds just a small amount at the very tip. I found this tool at a model railroad store but I have also seen it a HobbyTown. I broke the original and made a new tip by grinding off the end of a large sewing needle. Works like a charm. I put a small bit of glue on a piece of glass and dip from that. I even use the CA to strengthen small parts.

  5. JRSeese

    JRSeese Member

    Is there a brand / # CA glue readily available in the US that is recommended for the "fiddly bits"?
  6. jyduchene

    jyduchene Member

    I have tried a few glues, UHU, Tacky and always come back to elmers. I use a flat #1 brush to apply the glue. I keep the brush in a glass of water and wipe the water off on a paper towel so as not to flood the paper and cause the inks to run. I apply glue very precisely this way and apply it to both surfaces.

    I use self closing teezers to hold the joint together whenever I can and have found some neat little (1") plastic clothes pens at Michaels (a local art supply store) to use as clamps as well. I have found that clamping helps and is not required for more then a minute or two.

    I use CA glue only when I want to harden or reinforce paper and when ever I use CA glue I always wind up gluing the part to my fingers, regardless of how often or how carefully I apprpoach the situation. I am of the opinion that CA glue is one item that NASA should have never released to the general public i :D

    I used a toothpick for many models before I read someones suggestion to use a brush with white glue and now I wouldn't do it any other way.

    Good luck and keep the CA off your hands.

  7. bwallaw

    bwallaw Member

    Flesh is probably the surface upon which CA adheres best.

    I like the brush idea. I will give it a try today as I build my formers.

    Thanks John
  8. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Hi All,

    CA was invented in Europe as a replacement for sutures..., keep some around for bad cuts that need closing (this is from experience). It was only just recently approved for use in the U.S. for the purpose for which it was it was first invented so don't blame NASA for this one, they had nothing to do with it.

    A good tip for using CA is to take some plasticene modeling clay and form it into a the form of a small bowl (2-3 cm diameter). Take your thumb and forefinger and grip a piece of plastic wrap tightly and tear out a thumb sized piece. Use the piece to line the modeling clay bowl. Put a couple of drops of CA in the bowl as a dipping source. Now use pins, toothpicks, bamboo skewers or any shape that's convenient to apply the CA. If the CA starts to get to thick just close up the dab in the plastic wrap and replace with another. This is a simple and easy way to use CAs without having to futz around with a squeeze bottle that has never performed well.

    Best regards, Gil
  9. Maurice

    Maurice Member

  10. Jim Krauzlis

    Jim Krauzlis Active Member

    What type of glue is it?

    Well, every once and a while I see a bottle of what appears to be glue in photos posted.
    The latest is shown in BugBrain's photo of his workbench
    Do you see the two bottles to the left, one appears a darker brown than the other? Is that some sort of glue? Sorry, I feel a bit like a snoop gawking at someone else's work space, but I was curious what those bottles are, as well as the white bottle at the top right edge of the mat.

    The reason I ask is I am trying to find a non-water based glue that dries flat and clear but don't affect the card or paper as much. Sure, I have applied the white glue with a brush, works for the most part, but in the smaller pieces I would like to avoid what appears to be the inevitable wrinkles and other water based problems. :cry:
    Any suggestions or leads would be very much appreciated...and hopefully I can find the suggested alternatives in the US or online. :)
  11. JRSeese

    JRSeese Member

    A little-known fact about Bugbrains is that he enjoys a nice salad now and then while modeling. The one is oil, the other vinegar.
  12. Jim Krauzlis

    Jim Krauzlis Active Member

  13. Bikerpete

    Bikerpete Member


    :D I only eat salad if I get a mouthful when I hit the ditch with the bike :D

    Seriously, the two large bottles contain the ingedients for Alumilite casting material. I was attempting to make some molding plugs for lifeboats but not very successfully. The other glues in the picture are the standard fare...thick and thin CA, Elmers, Aleen's tacky glue, Delta photo-safe glue, UHU Stick,UHU Twist & Glue, and Tamiya thick and thin plastic cement. More of a chemical warehouse than a work-space really.

    Does anyone else use the Delta photo-safe glue, that's the bottle at the top right edge? It's water based but has a real nice wet consistency, is kinda flexible when set, and is not too glossy when dry.

  14. Darwin

    Darwin Member

    JR, a brand of CA available in the US and that works well on the fiddly bits is Zap (I prefer the thick Zap-a-gap formula). Bug, you are a man after my own heart....a neat workbench is a sign of a very sick mind.
  15. Jim Nunn

    Jim Nunn Member

    Ill Jump in here and put in my two bits worth. My preference is to use Elmer’s glue-all and all things considered I think it ends up being your preference as to what glue to use. I have used Uhu but it is difficult to get it in the US because it is a solvent based glue, I found it to be excellent glue but I always end up coming back to Glue-all. As for its lasting power I have models I built 30 years ago that have not come apart
    I use extra thick cyanoacrylate to glue metal and plastic to paper. I know that David Okaurma uses thin cyanoacrylate to stiffen up very small parts when he builds his ultra miniature paper models.

    I think the “trick†to using glues-all is that if you asking yourself if you have enough glue on the part you most likely have too much glue. If you apply glue-all sparingly on both parts the glue will set almost as fast as CA! This also means that if you have to hold the part for an excessive amount of time to get the glue to set you have way too much glue on the part. To apply the glue I use a tool that was made from a xacto handle that has a length of 0.040 brass rod that I use to apply glue though you can use toothpicks to apply glue.

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