glue
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Ordinary white glue, diluted with water works well. I usually mix white glue with an equal amount of water (I use hot tap water, I find that it mixes faster. I'm not familiar with the Woodland Scenics glue, so I'll outline the procedure for using this mix, in case it differs.
First, apply your scenic materials: ballast, dirt, ground foam, whatever. You can come back later and add more, but it's faster to do it all at once. When everything is positioned how and where you want it, use a sprayer, filled with water to which you have added a few drops of liquid dish detergent, to wet the entire area. (The dish detergent makes the water flow more readily, as it alters the surface tension. Some modellers use alcohol, but the soap is much cheaper.) The initial spray should be aimed upwards, and allowed to fall on the scene, so as to not disturb the loose materials. Once everything is damp enough to not be blown around, thoroughly wet the area with a more direct spray. Now, using either an eyedropper or a plastic applicator bottle (much faster) apply the glue/water mixture. When a drop of it touches the wet scenic material, you'll see it spread out. Continue placing drops of glue and letting them run together, until you have covered the entire scene. If you have a thick layer of scenic material, make sure that it gets thoroughly saturated with the "wet" water, and then be sure to apply sufficient glue mixture to bond everything right through, not just the top layer. The glue will dry clear and flat, so you don't have to worry about applying too much.
Here's a poorly composed picture, showing an embankment with a fairly deep application of scenic material. The green area is various colours and sizes of ground foam, the rip-rap (broken plaster rubble) is topped with a layer of coarse ballast, then a layer of fine cinders, and finally, a layer of fine ballast, all done in one application.
When you have finished applying the glue mixture, you'll need to allow a day or two for everything to dry. On a scene like I've shown, it could take up to a week.
If you have a fair amount of scenery to do, buy the glue in a gallon container, as it's much cheaper. Home Depot, the hardware store, etc. are good sources. If you're applying foam or ballast on a steeply sloped area, it helps to first "paint" the area with undiluted white glue, then spread the scenic material, spray with the "wet" water, and add more thinned glue if required. You can also substitute matte medium for the white glue: the only difference that I have noticed is that 8 ounces of it cost almost as much as a gallon of white glue. Mix in the same proportions if you use it.
Wayne
First, apply your scenic materials: ballast, dirt, ground foam, whatever. You can come back later and add more, but it's faster to do it all at once. When everything is positioned how and where you want it, use a sprayer, filled with water to which you have added a few drops of liquid dish detergent, to wet the entire area. (The dish detergent makes the water flow more readily, as it alters the surface tension. Some modellers use alcohol, but the soap is much cheaper.) The initial spray should be aimed upwards, and allowed to fall on the scene, so as to not disturb the loose materials. Once everything is damp enough to not be blown around, thoroughly wet the area with a more direct spray. Now, using either an eyedropper or a plastic applicator bottle (much faster) apply the glue/water mixture. When a drop of it touches the wet scenic material, you'll see it spread out. Continue placing drops of glue and letting them run together, until you have covered the entire scene. If you have a thick layer of scenic material, make sure that it gets thoroughly saturated with the "wet" water, and then be sure to apply sufficient glue mixture to bond everything right through, not just the top layer. The glue will dry clear and flat, so you don't have to worry about applying too much.
Here's a poorly composed picture, showing an embankment with a fairly deep application of scenic material. The green area is various colours and sizes of ground foam, the rip-rap (broken plaster rubble) is topped with a layer of coarse ballast, then a layer of fine cinders, and finally, a layer of fine ballast, all done in one application.
When you have finished applying the glue mixture, you'll need to allow a day or two for everything to dry. On a scene like I've shown, it could take up to a week.
If you have a fair amount of scenery to do, buy the glue in a gallon container, as it's much cheaper. Home Depot, the hardware store, etc. are good sources. If you're applying foam or ballast on a steeply sloped area, it helps to first "paint" the area with undiluted white glue, then spread the scenic material, spray with the "wet" water, and add more thinned glue if required. You can also substitute matte medium for the white glue: the only difference that I have noticed is that 8 ounces of it cost almost as much as a gallon of white glue. Mix in the same proportions if you use it.
Wayne