Glue residue shine

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by Amir, Apr 21, 2005.

  1. Leif Oh

    Leif Oh Member

    Thank you for that valuable tip! I've had some trouble glueing plastic tubes into wheels for bearings, and in the future I will be sure to add that procedure. If a light sanding will make paint adhere, glue should as well (at least better than the very shiny surface of untreated tubes), right?

    (Edited in: Actually tried that on the Airacobra wheel bearings, which came loose when glued only with white glue. Seemed to work just fine, and the bearings now, hopefully, will stay in place in spite of only white glue. Thanks again for the tip!)

  2. Leif Oh

    Leif Oh Member

    OK, thanks to Shrike on this site I now know that the name of the product I was thinking about is "Kleer", or Johnson "Future" floor wax. And here's the link I was looking for:

    This product evidently is sold under several names, but in effect the content is a very thin acrylic varnish, which does give a glossy surface. This can be remedied by adding matting agent, at around ten percent (see further info at the exhaustive link above). Here's a picture showing how it can be used to make canopies look "thinner" than they actually are - just dip it in the "Kleer" or "Future" polish, straight from the canister.


    I don't think the floor polish we used at home contained this formula (although the brand "Pledge" is shown as an example of different lables containing this product), since nothing about acrylic was mentioned on the label (unless of course "acrylic" is a generic name for "carboxylate" - anybody in the know?). It was for parquet floors. Perhaps I should be looking for floor wax for laminated floors. I'll be sure to have a look next time out at the local supermarket.

    Many thanks for providing this lost piece of information, Shrike.

    Thinking out aloud, one thought that immediately comes to mind is that diluting acrylic varnish even more might produce exactly the same product. If I remember correctly the "carboxylate" content of our polish was 10-15 percent. What if I diluted my own matt acrylic varnish to 50 or even 75 percent? Interesting thought. Would be worth another test paint, I suppose. Got to remember that for the future.

  3. SCEtoAux

    SCEtoAux Member

    Glad to help, Leif, and glad that it worked out. :)

    GEEDUBBYA Active Member

    Howdy Guys,

    Not to detract from the topic, but, being a redneck from arkansas, who occassionally likes to "boot scoot", I found out by accident a few yrs ago that this stuff also makes great boot polish that renders the boots impervious to water and oil, and provides a really nice shine. Again being a redneck, all I own are pointed toed cowboy boots and keeping them shined used to be a headache, but this stuff lasts forever, my g/f says that she wished she could put it on her feet so I dont scuff them up when we dance lol.

    Greg aka GEEDUBBYA
  5. jasco

    jasco Member

    OK- I give up. Countless trips to the local home centers and Michaels arts and crafts and I still can't find any "matte acrylic" stuff. There are semi-gloss and satin acrylic varnishes.(Blue cans... I can't remember the manufacturer) There is Krylon fixative for artists. I've even found and used Testors Dullcote. I didn't like that. It seemed to lessen the contrast of the colors of the airplane I sprayed it on and I wasn't smart enough to mask off the canopy, so that was clouded over. Does anyone have a name brand of this elusive matte acrylic? How about acrylic filler? AAAAAAGH! ":cry:"[/img]

    GEEDUBBYA Active Member


    Sorry to hear but the canopy disaster but, depending on the type clear plastic, you may be able to remedy it. Try using some testors paint thinner applied by a small soft brush, starting in the center or top, apply it and brush outward towards the edges, thereby moving the thinned dullcote residue to the edges. do not try to wipe dry, you may try blotting with a soft cloth (not a paper towel) to dry it, then apply a thin film of clear fingernail polish to the canopy. This tenique has worked numerous times for me in the past on plastic kits. But I can not stress enough, DO NOT TRY TO WIPE IT DRY, because if the plastic softens, you will have a bigger mess than you have now.
    Another technique I have used its to spray the fogged canopies with testors hi gloss clear enamel, it will sometimes clear them up depending on how severe the fogging is.
    And one last technique, one that should only be used in a dust free enviroment, and one in which the model will not be handled, is to apply a thin film of vasoline to the canopy, this will also clear it up, but, it will collect dust, and will rub off if handled. So this technique would be more suitible for models in a display case.
    And last but not least, when using a product like dullcote, on plastic or paper models with clear parts you should mask the clear parts in some manner. On plastic, tape will usually work, on paper, tape may not be an option. Even on some painted plastic kits, tape may ruin the finish, so in leiu of tape I have used vasoline smeared lightly on the clear canopy BEFORE spraying with dullcote. Just enough to prevent the spray from adhering to the clear plastic, and it can be neatly cleaned off with a q-tip and the corner of a folder paper towel later. The only thing I would watch for is to make sure the vasoline does not get on the paper portion of the model, as it will be soaked up by the paper and stain.
    I have been model building since I was about 5 and I am 41 now, so I have tried many techniques to remedy mishaps that I have made. I just hope someone else can benifit from what I have learned.

    Like chancelloer Bismarck said............ "A fool learns from his mistakes, the smart man learns from the "other guys" mistakes".
    But we have all goofed on builds, so chalk it up to experience.

    have a nice day,

    Greg aka GEEDUBBYA

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