Glue residue shine

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by Amir, Apr 21, 2005.

  1. Amir

    Amir New Member

    I am looking for a solution to the problem of glue residue (see pics here: I am using UHU all purpose glue, which sometimes leave residues on the model that I cannot get off. I didn't coat the paper with anything before I started. Now remains the question, would it be wise to use acrylic spray on the finished model? Would it make the residue less visible? Would it have helped if I sprayed the paper before I started?

    I like the UHU glue cause it's strong and dries fast (leaves nasty residues though), but from what I saw here it is less popular compared to the type Masamune uses in (I saw many others that use similar brands), but I remember it to dry slowly and that it also have weak adherence. Am I clueless?
  2. rickstef

    rickstef Guest

    no, not at all.

    you are using a solvent based glue, and here in the USA we use white glue, or a PVA glue, UHU is becoming more and more available here.

    as for spraying before or after, matter of personal choice.

    you could try to scrape it off, (goes easiest when the glue is really really dry)
    if not, try to hide it with paint or markers

  3. Amir

    Amir New Member

    I don't get it. White glue is white glue, same around the world, isn't it? Could you elaborate?

    If anyone here had used both types of glue, I would be interested in hearing their thoughts on the issue.

    I don't think I can paint over dried glue as it is too smooth, and certainly cannot scarpe it off. I'll make some experiments with the spray; maybe it would help (if all the model is shiny, then maybe the glue residues will remain unnoticed).
  4. Leif Oh

    Leif Oh Member

    Spray (or brush on, that's what I do, works OK) the finished model with MATT acrylic. Be sure to stir up the can really well, otherwise you'll get a gloss finish (unwanted) to begin with, and too much matt (cloudy) at the end of the can.

    Matt acrylic afterwards will take away the shine of white glue, in my experience, thus in effect hiding those spots. Might well do the same with your glue.

    Increasingly, I paint kit parts before cutting them out with matt acrylic also. Rubbing off white glue then becomes MUCH easier, and the risk of damaging the parts is much less.

    You can spray your sheets before cutting out with some spray (although it'll smell very strongly and you should be somewhere out of the apartment). Be sure to use matt spray. I've never sprayed (just brush-painted) a finished model, so can't advise on that point.

  5. Boris

    Boris Member

    Don't try to paint the residue of solvent-based glue. After a month or two it's going to be visible again . Next time try using some kind of applicator (tooth pick, needle, etc..) to make the glue layer as thin as possible
    About how to get rid of glue residue - I don't have a clue. I was using a Bison's solvent-based glues and had serious problems with glues like these (shrinking and residues) and this is why I'm using now plain regular white glue (PVA)
  6. cecil_severs

    cecil_severs Member

    Perhaps this is the quote you meant to reference:

    "Never in the field of human conflict has so much, been owed by so many, to so few"

    W. Churchill - Speech in the House of Commons (August 20, 1940) complimenting the Royal Air Force during the Battle of Britain.

  7. wunwinglow

    wunwinglow Active Member

    I spy translation software at work!

    Tim P
  8. Just to see what everyone keeps UHUing about, as an act of pure randomness I bought a cheap UHU stic (Saunders/UHU Adhesives Distribution Inc./UHU GmbH) weeks ago (this stuff
    It was the absolute worst adhesive I have ever tried, even for a gluestick, it didn't bond well, didn't penetrate, has too much body, it took too long to dry, and seams came apart. Had to apply cyanoacrylate to fix the model. "highest quality formula in the world" like €r@9.
    As for "UHU" I've missed if it's been posted before, but what is it made of? UHU just seems to mean "around the house" in some North European language, and searches keep giving me; "highest quality formula in the world".
    Whenever I'm at the store again I might pick up the liquid type and try it.

    Besides PVA and cyanoacrylate, I also sparingly use E6000, a silcon based adhesive, which is insanely odorous, toxic, very transparent and extremely strong. It is very thick, and you must not leave any residue; it is insane to clean off and cannot be easily hidden.
  9. Jimi

    Jimi Member

    "Uhu" means owl in german right? :lol: anyway, i've been looking for Uhu products at the malls here and unfortunately, i cant find any. :(
  10. I bought it at "Michael's Craftstore" ( here in Washington (the state not the satan's den).
    Can't recommend the gluestick type, I am severely disappointed with it.

    [edit]It may be good for scrapbooking, which I keep finding listed for, but it is just not compatible with my "stressed joint" building technique. Try finding it in scrapbooking stores, if there is such a thing where you are, they claim UHU is acid free and archival safe.[/edit]
  11. Amir

    Amir New Member

    Washington!? I thought you lived in Alaska :) . Anyway, I can confirm your point, these UHU stick glues are only good for scrapbooks. Actually, they're ideal for scrapbooking, as they can glue thin pieces of paper (like in newspapers) without being absorbed into the paper and causing it to shrink. In the "old days", before the prevalence of color printers, we used to use UHU sticks for glueing pictures or graphs to work sheets of school projects. I thought everyone knew about it.

    The UHU I use is similar to what's on The reason I got residues is that although I used an applicator, the glue got stuck to my hands on several occasions. Then, everything I touched became glue infected. More patience would have helped me to avoid this problem.

    Since I am not going to build the same model again, I think I'll make some experiments with acrylic spray. I saw it was mentioned here by different names. Can anyone elaborate on the different types?
  12. cadwal

    cadwal Member

    UHU is both the company and the brand:

    What most people mean by UHU is probably UHU (Der) Alleskleber which is the clear, stringy stuff. (in both solvent-based and solvent-free variants)

    You might have UHU stuff locally, whereever that may be, but using a different brand name. In Sweden we have had something called "Karlssons klister" (probably since before 1950, "klister" mean glue). This brand was purchased by UHU not too long ago and as far as I can tell the formula was changed to the stringier (sp?) UHU Alleskleber formula even though the markings on the tube are almost the same as before.

    I also seem to remember that "flinke-flasche" was something else before UHU bought it (at least here in Sweden).
  13. HB

    HB New Member

    Hi Amir. When I get glue stains on my model I use a toothpick with dry glue on and lightly lift away the stains and strings. As for PVA glue I use the German brand “Bostik indoor wood glue†Its cheep and dries very fast. You should not stick to a single type of glue because they are good for different tasks. The UHU is good for large parts because it doesn’t warp the paper. The PVA is good for small parts and to fill seems and masking small holes. Superglue gel is superb to connect big parts that doeset have a perfect fit and thin superglues are good for connecting different media as plastic to paper etc, It can also be used to stiffen thin parts. Always apply glues with a toothpick so you can control the amount.

    MVH Håkan Boström
  14. Leif Oh

    Leif Oh Member

    The toothpick-dry glue-lifting off device was a good tip - got to remember that! - L.
  15. jasco

    jasco Member

    When I tried UHU Alleskleber, I liked the way it acted and looked on the finished model, but it seems to get brittle when dry and doesn't soak into the paper. I once had fuselage sections pop apart after one of the inevitable unscheduled trips to the floor. I water down Elmer's for most applications about 3:1. It keeps the open time a little higher and improves penetration into the paper fibers. It also softens the paper enough that you can work the parts together for a very close seam. For laminating I'll use 3M spray adhesive. Very sticky!
  16. Amir

    Amir New Member

    Thanks guys, these are good advises. I'll try to combine between different types of glue and see what works best for me.
  17. SCEtoAux

    SCEtoAux Member

    A thought about painting over the shiny glue residue. Would it help if you used some fine sandpaper or emory board/cloth and roughed up the shiny residue before you painted the offending spot? Use a light touch so you don't remove any of the detail. All you need to do is give the surface a "tooth" so the paint has something to grab hold of. I have sandpapered smooth plastic pipes before when a coat of paint was needed. The resulting roughening allowed the paint to adhere to the surface. A fine sand paper does not leave any noticeable texture, but does leave enough ridges and valleys for the paint to stay on.

    I have used the UHU Office Pen (part number 99589) and have been unsatisfied with it. It has a screw on cap with a nib that fits into a hole in the applicator tip to prevent clogging. That is the only good thing about it. The applicator tip is a hard plastic square at around 5mm (give or take a few microns) per side. The glue itself seems to take a while to dry and just remains on the surface. I like a little time to position the pieces being glued together, but the UHU just take too long to finally grab.

    I use Aleene's Tacky glue mostly. A small puddle of glue is put on some scrap cardstock and is then applied to the model using a wooden toothpick. I have noticed that any glue that sqeezes out is easily removed after it has dried. It just kind of rolls off using a scrapper of some sort with no damage to the model. Elmer's Glue-All works good too but seems to have a higher water content so a thinner coating is applied when using it.

    For large surfaces like laminating I use an Avery Disappering Color Glue Stic. The glue looks purple and dries clear. It is also acid free and photo safe. I have not had any glued up pieces come apart after using it. :)

    GEEDUBBYA Active Member

    Howdy Guys,

    In my spare time, I pick up a little extra cash by camoflauging rifles and shotguns ($35-$50 each) and even 4 wheelers, boats and deerstands (prices vary according to project) with my airbrush. I can spray most any camo pattern you can provide a sample of for me to look at.
    Anyway, one thing a hunter knows is that your "prey" will spook if it sees the shine or glare from your gun. So, on the guns, after I finish camo-ing them, I apply a coat of testors pt no# 1260 dull cote which comes in a 3 oz. can and costs about $3.ºº per can. ( a can will cover a large area when used properly).
    It also clearly states on the label that it is compatible with paper, BUT, if you decide to use it on printed inkjet, I would follow the instructions very carefully and spray the paper from a distance of atleast 8 inches and just "mist" the project, then allowing it to dry, thereby sealing in the colors. Then, you can apply more as needed to remove the glare.
    I use it on the camo jobs as stated above and on all of my military models that shouldnt have a shine with great results, just remember......SPRAY FROM 8-10" AWAY FROM PROJECT SO NO PUDDLING OCCURS! You only want to "mist" the part.
    Below is a photo of the product, and a photo of a M-113 APC with tow missile launcher I completed and camoed and sprayed with dull cote.

    ONE OTHER SPECIAL NOTE: DO NOT SPRAY THIS ON CLEAR PLASTIC AS IT WILL CAUSE IT TO "FOG" mask off any clear parts you dont want sprayed.

    Greg aka GEEDUBBYA
  19. 46rob

    46rob Member

    If you build models using Red River silver paper, it works well to fix the ink to the paper (It comes off too easily) and also to reduce the overall shine to a more realistic level.
  20. Leif Oh

    Leif Oh Member

    Info on floor polish wanted

    Polishing the floors yesterday I couldn't get this thread out of my head, so I test painted a surplus set of wing skins for the Airacobra with the floor polish we used. The brand was Johnson Pledge polish for wooden floors. On the back side it says that it contains 5-15 percent of polycarboxylate, whatever that is.

    I distinctly remember a thread on this site on some miracle formula which could be used for almost anything (enhancing clear canopies; tinting canopies mixed with colour; and many other things). Could anyone point me to that thread, or the off-site link provided there?

    The test paint with floor polish turned out reasonably well, although the polish seems to deform the paper even more than matt acrylic.

    I also test painted the same piece with matt acrylic, both with the original strength, and 10 percent diluted. After that I smeared all test surfaces with white glue. Findings are:

    1. Glue resistance: Floor polish does not give any better protection than untreated paper. Rubbing off the glue tore off the colour on both surfaces alike.

    Matt acrylic at full strenght enables rubbing off white glue without damaging the surface at all, while there is some marks at 10 percent dilution, but not very much. These marks are more of the character that the acrylic layer was rubbed off, but not the colour of the paper, so a repaint of that section with acrylic should fix the problem.

    2. Shine: Floor polish give a better surface than untreated paper (at least the thick 225 g, 0.25 mm, I am using, which is not photo quality at all). It enhances the colours somewhat, while still very matt, although not cloudy.

    Matt acrylic leaves quite visible brushmarks in original strength. This is due to the matting substance I believe (clouding). Matt acrylic ten percent diluted gives a much better surface. Still some traces of brushmarks, but not much.

    3. Deformation: Floor polish really buckles up the paper in all sorts of unpredictable directions, much more than acrylic, which just sort of bends the paper (like glueing on one side). This is acceptable and can easily be smoothed before cutting out the part. Another advantage of pre-varnishing parts is that further deformation when varnishing the finished model or sections of it is unlikely to take place.

    Conclusion: I will dilute my matt acrylic further (perhaps 20 percent), and stick to that throughout in the future, varnishing parts both before cutting them out, and the finished model. I much regret that I did not carry out these tests before treating the Airacobra to all sorts of matt & gloss acrylic varnish.


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