Discussion in 'N / Z Scale Model Trains' started by spitfire, Oct 9, 2003.
Yes, I think I can take on a corner module.
My apologies Val, I see the standards are set at your link.
Should read before I post
How people get hung up on fascia colour, when good operations are way more important...
My vote is for everyone to use their own tartan!
If you don't have Scottish ancestors, well.... I'm sure that you could get a clan to adopt you...
Myself, I've got a few to choose from, including Royal Stuart, Stuart of Athel and Miccus.
Arrrr! Pass the Haggus and fire up the bagpipes!
Another suggestion is Celtic knotwork.
Does this have to be N-scale??? How about On15? A wee-little critter and a string of ore tippers on a 10% grade....
Sorry... I'm getting a little silly.
This event sounds like fun!
And so it begins
I started making a corner module today. Got the top cut out.
Framing and legs come next.
In order for me to do serious wood work, I have to move the car out of the garage, and "assemble" my "woodworking shop", so I try to get as much ready to be done as I can, in advance.
I had to build new legs for the modules I'm taking to Trainfest, so I also got the materials for the Ntrack module. Here's the Ntrack module frame, on a set of the new legs.
Good to see your progress Pete.
Here is where I am at with my first corner module. Adjusting the height of the legs.
Facia and backboard still to come.
Oh goody - looks like I'll be hitting you up for some corner module pointers there matthyro!
Looking really good guys!
I'm getting ready to start mine - went to Home Depot today to look for stuff... founds pretty much everything that I need there. (I had to really hunt to find some lauan plywood) but found it, and it looks good... I am putting together some plans for lightweight 2' x 2' modules that I will team up to make 6'. Also, finished up the last bit of the track plan.
Things to note:
The crossovers will be #8 (but the image shows #6 - thats what was available in the software) but I have left room for them. Also, the placement of the crossover (in the center module) was intentional. Even though I have more room to "slide" it to the left, I chose not to do so, as that would put it RIGHT over the area where the modules comes apart (#8 crossovers require 16" from end to end, so even though it looks like it fits, it really doesn't - I don't feel comfortable putting it right against the edge). I wanted to put only straight sections of track on the joints (with the exception of that one curved piece - but thats a sectional track, so it should be ok).
I have looked at the BBQ web site (thanks Val) and done some math (head... hurts...) and realized that we have enough modules to make a rectangle with 72" long sides (one would be Arlaghan, the other Trainclown's 24" module plus one of the other 48" sections), and two short sides (the remaining 48" sections).
As the lone holdout for a oNeTrak module, which in turn requires a transition module, I will give up this approach.
I would still like to participate though, so what can I bring? I don't mind building some structures of some sort, so...
Is there a track plan yet for any of the modules so I could add stuff, or will the modules come fully scenicked and "building-ed" a la Matthyro CPR station corner...?
Any suggestions, comments, or clarification would be appreciated! I unfortunately am unable to get to the chat room.
You have several options available to you:
(1) If you want to build a module, you could build a 4' module, and then TrainClown's and my module could be one side, and yours and another 4' module be the opposite side, and the remaining 2 four footers opposite each other.... OR
(2) If you want to make a 2' module, I believe Catt volunteered to make another 2' module... check with him if he's still up for it... OR
(3) I am "zoning" off areas on my 6' module to allocate structures from other modelers (Jim Currie has already offered to make a building). My module will be "modern day big city" themed and I plan to make the streets and sidewalk areas, leaving "nooks" for buildings like Jim's. If you would like to build a city building, let me know and I will allocate room for one. This is open to anyone, btw!
I'm still struggling to assemble a table saw I purchased, I had to return the first one because the motor housing was crooked (blade wasn't parallel to the miter gauge) and there was no way to adjust it. The new one looks good, but now I have to reassemble to stand and all the parts again. Then I can start making my modules so I can begin the "zoning" process.
If someone is unsure about their scenicing ability, they could build a spacer module, which is a narrow module, just containing the straight mainlines, used to balance out an odd number of modules.
OK, been working hard on the modules. Wish I was a better carpenter, but oh well, this will have to do!
I got some plans for HO modules off the internet, modified them a little for NTRAK, and reduced it down from 2' x 4' to 2' x 2'. Then I made three of them for my full six foot module. All of my scenery will be detachable, so I can pack these in a box and send them in the belly of the plane. The structures and scenery will be carry on!
Explanation: The one on the far left is completed - just needs a layer of 3/4" foam. The one in the center is the same thing, but needs the thin "door" sheet of wood, then the foam. The one on the far right is the same as the middle, but a view from the back side. On these two, you can see the extra support where the track will go - to keep that area firm from sagging and warping.
It's good to see your progress Arlaghan. Looks like you are a better carpenter than you admit to.
Alright! Looking good guys! Can't wait to get started on mine - hope that'll be over Christmas.
I contacted one of the local Ntrak groups, and have the cinch connectors ordered. The area between the branch line, and the backboard is going to be FULL, and that's all I'm going to say at this time, other than that I have a deep hole to dig.
P.S. skyboard; what if we are going to paint in a background scene? The sky color will have to be cut in around the edges of the scene?, or there should not be a scene?
Can you make the sky board removable, or is the scenery going to be attached?
My 4x8 table at home does not have a backdrop, so I am not sure how these things work... It is just "thinking out loud".
The skyboard should be removable for ease of handling. All Val has asked is that we use the same colour for the skyboard so that's why she suggests we do that when we get together. Now if you want your scenery to be attached to the skyboard that is a different matter as the skyboard would not be removable.
Any thoughts from you all about this?!
My suggestion would be to temp. attach your unpainted skyboard while you are building your scenery...you can build the scenery right up to the skyboard without actually attaching scenery to it.
Nice corner module Robin! I think this is the first thing I've seen you build that wasn't mostly cardstock!
Your talent definitely comes out, no matter what medium you're working with!
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