Gap Filler for Paper?

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by kk135, Dec 13, 2004.

  1. kk135

    kk135 Member

    OK, I know this sounds dumb.
    The harder I try to cut correctly and evenly I almost always make a "little, tiny" slip. It doesn't look that bad, and even when dry fit, it looks OK. But something happens when I apply the glue and set the piece in place. The misstep I took with the scissors becomes a deep glaring canyon. But now I can't pull the piece off again the model.
    Besides trying to be more careful, what can be done? TIA.
  2. Gil

    Gil Active Member


    Take a look at Swingers Ju-88 build thread. He's using acrylic filler to fill the joints and shows this on page 8 (?). I've actually thought about using it to glue the sections together first scraping off followed by wiping with a damp cloth or paper towel. Swinger also related that the edge color had mixed with the filler material which works out to be an added plus.

  3. Peter H

    Peter H Member

    Nifty idea about the filler.

    Gaping holes .... mmmm

    A number of things I could suggest.

    The first is the size of the error can have a correlation to the size of the miss-cut that again can be related to the size of your scissors. One idea is to reduce the size of your scissors (well the length of the cutting edges). I have a set of "stork" dressmaker scissors (5/8" edges) but my goal is if I can find a set of disecting scissors that have standard size medical scissor handles and sweet little 3/8-1/2" cutting edges. Sure you make a lot more cuts but inherently should be more acurate.

    If you cut two pieces and there is a gap when mating them then get a buffing pad used by the fairer sex for fingernails. Mine has 600 and 1200 grit on each side with a spongy centre. Dry fit the parts and go the the edges of the gap and slowly buff your error away until to you reach the middle(centre) of the gap. Then flip the buff around and buff the fuzzy edges off to get a clean mating surface. Dry fit again and look holistically at the joint and parts to make sure if your not creating an error that will creep into other parts and start a cascade of problems. This is the time when I decide to fix the error(s) or call it a day and reprint the part. If you are working out of a kit/book then a I leave how you get closure up to you.

    Finally if your starting out and this is happeneing, above all **don't worry** ... as the old cliche goes, "you learn more from mistakes than successes", and in time the glaring mistakes go away after repitition of the range of fine motor skills you are learning.
  4. kk135

    kk135 Member

    Thanks guys for the quick replies.
    I definitely try the emery board sanding approach. As far as scissor I've been using mostly small scissors but not as small as the ones you described. Seems I need to make a trip to the manicure section of my drugstore.

    Gil thanks for the info. I'm not here that long. Can you point me to that thread? TIA

    -edit - Sorry Gil, I found it! :oops:
  5. Gil

    Gil Active Member

  6. Jim Nunn

    Jim Nunn Member

    The right tools are essential. The scissors that Gil recommends are the very best for card modeling. Also consider using a steel rule when you cut straight lines with an exacto knife.

    As for a gap filler Bob Penikas showed me how to use Acrylic Gesso. Gesso has several advantages in that you can use watercolor pigments to color match the gesso to your model and It can be layered on to get the best surface.

    Jim Nunn
  7. kk135

    kk135 Member

    Thanks Gil and Jim. Oddly enuff I already own a pair. But the're sitting in with my bonsai tools. :D They only get used to leaf prune so they don't have any nicks etc... I'll have to give them a shot. I also have gesso and will give that a try as well if and when my hand eye coordination fails. :wink:
  8. Gil

    Gil Active Member


    You also might want to consider acrylic modeling paste. It comes in three different thicknesses light (not recommended), regular and hard. Regular is probably your best bet. It is also used as an adhesive for papier mache and is useful in laminating card stock. The regular paste consists of an acrylic binder mixed with calcium carbonate commonly refered to as "whiting". I make a mixture out of acrylic gloss medium and microballoons (used to thicken epoxy and polyester pastes to make a high grade but light bondo) till thick to make an acrylic filler that's easily sanded. Note that all of the above can be tinted with acrylic paint as desired. Other texture addidtives can be "bonded" for modeling work especially pebbles and sand for diorama work.

  9. seawolf

    seawolf Member

    for small gap, I use white glue which became transparent after its dry.
  10. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    White glue will work but it doesn't sand well. That's the reason for using acrylic modeling paste.

  11. cecil_severs

    cecil_severs Member

    I use artist gesso (whiting compound mixed with baking soda) mixed with white glue. It can be thinned to spread over a wide area or mixed as a thick paste to fill gaps. When sanded with progressively finer emory boards a glass like surface can be had. The mix can be tinted for gap filling or for a large surface like the CW-1 Junior it makes a great base for the airbrush. I'm currently attempting this technique on the underside of the Avia 534. I post pics as I make progress.


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