Fun with models

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by cdavenport, Apr 13, 2008.

  1. cdavenport

    cdavenport Member

    I'll beg your forgiveness with the non-card subject matter. My intent is to show you another aspect of modeling fun. My friend created this airborne scene in Photoshop for me. These are diecast models. There are only two models, one being replicated twice.

    Attached Files:

  2. Nothing

    Nothing Longtime Member

    awsome! i thought i was the only one who did this kinda stuff.
    heres one i did with die cast
    defending the homeland.jpg

    and one i did with a 1/350 model i built.
  3. scon10

    scon10 Member

    Yes, that is one of the fun things about models and the software we have available now, building a model and then envisioning it in a world of its own. Here is an example I did with a scratch-build model of the Dutch liner ms Oranje (1938-1976) on the high seas. Sorry it is a ship, I am working on a model of some airliners that I will treat in a similar manner, which I will show later.

    Attached Files:

  4. Nothing

    Nothing Longtime Member

    very nice scon10!
  5. Elliott

    Elliott Senior Member

    I like this! Would any of you kind people be willing to reveal your secrets such as software, methods, etc? Great stuff! Y'all got any more pictures?
  6. Gregory Shoda

    Gregory Shoda Member

    Wow to all! Very professional looking!
  7. cdavenport

    cdavenport Member

    Here are a couple more shots. I have many more, but those were shot in the film days. I'll get around to converting them as they include representations of me in the photos. I am doing these shots you see here for a trade magazine for which I write a regular column. The B-17 shot is for the May cover.

    Photographically, the technique is simple. But, I am a babe in the woods with Photoshop. My friend is "helping" me. But, I really need to take a course to learn it to the degree I want.

    To photograph models convincingly, you really need a camera that will give you manual control over shutter speed and aperture. The trick is to use the smallest aperture the lens can give. With my Canon Rebel Xti 400D and an 18mm wide angle lens, I can work at apertures around f35 which gives me excellent depth of field.

    I also have a pinhole lens attachment that has an effective aperture of f90 which gives me a DOF from 6" to infinity, great for posing models waaay in front of the real thing and have everything in focus. DOF refers to the area in front of the lens where objects are in apparent focus. The shorter the focal length, like with a wide-angle lens, the deeper the DOF. The longer the focal length, like with a telephoto lens, the shallower the DOF.

    To obtain the lowest apertures and still maintain sufficient resolution, you need to use the camera's lowest ISO rating, which means you have to slow the shutter speed down to compensate for the small aperture. Generally, this requires a tripod to stabilize the camera.

    My final photo "secret," if you will, is to shoot the models in natural sunlight. Nothing gives the correct shadow detail like a pinpoint source of light. The closer the subject is to the light source, the more diffuse the light rays. Since the sun is most distant light source, it is also the best! Also, if you pose your model against a real backdrop, both will have the exact same shadow angle and intensity thereby reinforcing the illusion of reality.

    The work displayed thus far is a real inspiration and I am happy to be sharing something with this great group!

    Attached Files:

  8. cdavenport

    cdavenport Member

    Just lovely!
  9. cdavenport

    cdavenport Member

    Sorry, nothing! That is excellent work. I am trying to figure out how you extended the ocean out so far. Did you just model a big ocean? Just incredible wave work.
  10. Zathros

    Zathros Guest

    There should be a separate category for this type of artwork. It is simply excellent!
  11. scon10

    scon10 Member

    Sorry, Davenport, if I mislead you, for the sea is not a model but the real North Sea off the coast of Amsterdam, during a sunny but stormy weather. The ship is the model, scale 1 : 200, so 102 cm ( 3' 4 ft) in length.
    The way I made this sort of thing is by using a graphic photo program, I have Paint Shop Pro 12 and picking the pictures that I want to combine from my files.
    In PSP you make a selection of the part that you want to transfer onto the final composition, i.e. the Super Constellation (a card model in scale 1 : 67), a selection of the wing and engines of another model of the Super Constellation (1: 50, combined balsa and paper, see also the thread DC-6B in scratch build) and a picture from a Fokker 100 flying over polders of Holland, with a selection of the rim of the window and part of my hand. The main backgropund is a sunny tropical photo, found on the internet, and which I will use as the main "picture carrier". With the photo programme, you can put all these selctions onto this background piucture and then move them seperately around, enlarging or decreasing their size to will. When you're satisfied with the effect, both in terms of position, contrast and brightness and size (for the correct perspective), you just merge all the elements onto the background photo and voilá, their you have you real tabletop in digital format.
    I have included some pics of the original ones, and a screen capture of the PSP working space, where you can see the various layers, that I have used.

    When you get used to working with such photo programs, you can make these composite pictures on a rainy afternoon...
    I'll be happy to answer any questions you may have.

    Attached Files:

  12. scon10

    scon10 Member

    Sorry, I forgot to include the endresult. The twirling props are also not part of the model, but a trick included in PSP (Effect "Wind" combined with Deforming Tool "Twirl"), so they are in fact software props. :)
    The picture of the old car in front of the garage is very impressive, Davenport, it shows a captivating atmosphere! I would love to see other modellers results in this area, and swap tricks and tips.
  13. That is a pretty nice looking Connie. Where did you get it? I would like one myself but the price has been to Hi for the ones I have found.
  14. scon10

    scon10 Member

  15. cdavenport

    cdavenport Member

    Please don't apologize! The fact that you "mislead" us is with this excellent composition is the whole point of the exercise. I could not figure out how you made so much water. Your composition was so well done that I just assumed the water was modeled also. In fact, I was going to ask you what technique you used for the water since it was so convincing. The laugh is on me!

    Still, that is a rather excellent photo of the ocean.
  16. Traveller

    Traveller New Member

    That is some really cool work with photo shop top programs, guys! Excellent work with those. I also agree that it is a shame there is no forum here to show off CG type skills of folks who post here regularly.

    Of course, I'm mostly just a lurker who's trying to work on paper models and not doing so hot. :cry:
  17. sjsquirrel

    sjsquirrel Member


    The people on this forum never cease to amaze me!
    Nothing, you are such a multi-talented guy! Nice work dude.
    Very inspiring to see what you guys have done. Thanks for sharing it.

  18. Padre

    Padre Guest

    This is my effort, Otter/Natter model from Modini, enlarged it to about 1/135 and modified it to look like my ship the USS White River, LSMR 536.

    Attached Files:

  19. scon10

    scon10 Member

    Wow, Padre, that model is really pushing aside the water, very realistic effect.
    If you allow me to give a tip, and assuming you have used a photo programme, you could use the eraser to let the water waves hug more closely to the ships hull, by erasing small parts of the water (or the hull, whichever is pasted on which) in a slightly waving way. For instance, the broad white foam at the white structure on deck half way the ship would in real life rise up a bit. So if you erase the grey hull in that area with some small strokes, the white foam would as it were be crawling up the hull a little higher, and that would a give a very nice dynamic effect.
    Scon 10
  20. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    great work guys!!

Share This Page