Free Model #3 - ICM's Panzer IV Ausf D

Discussion in 'Armory & Military' started by KCStephens, Jan 24, 2008.

  1. KCStephens

    KCStephens Member

    I finally got around to beginning my build for the Free Model #3 contest. I chose ICM's Panzer IV Ausf D. -icm--'sƒy[ƒp[ƒ‚ƒfƒ‹ It's a nice little 1:50 scale model that has some very nice details that are usually found on larger size models. (see Charliec's review of this kit here:
    I really enjoy WWII German Armor so I think this is going to be a fun project.

    So without further ado....

    The first photo shows the 3 printed sheets that make up this kit. I printed 3 sets to allow for layering and the occasional messup. The sheets were then sprayed with Krylon matt spray to help protect them.

    Attached Files:

  2. KCStephens

    KCStephens Member

    Beginning the Hull Construction

    The next photos show the beginning of the hull construction.
    My first attempt was not very sucessful wall1 The hull was all twisted and out of square :curse::curse::curse: So I had to take another approach! Rather than build the hull from one piece (as printed out according to the directions) I decided to cut off the bottom and attach it as a separate piece later on. This method worked out much better :mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen: - No twist, perfectly square and sits flat. :thumb:
    I chose to remove the "stock" glue tabs and replace them with my own and while I was at it I also reinforced the inside with 1mm card stock which really stiffened things up. If you are going to build this model I really recommend this approach.

    I wanted to add more detail to the bottom of the tub so I decided to remove the ICM logo (sorry guys !!! - No disrespect intended here) and strip in some extra "grey" background from a 2nd copy that I made.

    Next step I will add more hull details, suspension, bogies, and road wheels (wish me luck)

    Attached Files:

  3. Toddlea

    Toddlea Member

    Looks great so far. I also built the hull the same way. The inner skeleton really helps keep it square.
  4. zhang9889

    zhang9889 New Member

  5. Nemesis7485

    Nemesis7485 Member

    Oh, what I'd give to have an organised desk like that rather than the bomb site mine is.
  6. KCStephens

    KCStephens Member

    Little Progress

    Here are the little bumper stops that go on the side of the hull.




    Here are the Bogies and some other little parts:




    That's it for now. I have to finish up a few more bogies then time to start the road wheels.
  7. Fishcarver

    Fishcarver Active Member

    That is really looking good, and I am enjoying the way you are detailing your model!

  8. jaffro

    jaffro Long term member

    Looking great so far... after seeing the impressive job you did on julescrafter's scorpion, I can't wait to see what you do with this one. :thumb:
  9. KCStephens

    KCStephens Member

    Thanks for the positive words of encouragement! I really need them now since I'm getting to the part of the build that seems to take forever!!!Wheels and tracks,... wheels and tracks,.... wheels and tracks,.....more and more wheels and tracks........... lots and lots of repetitive cutting - I don't think it will ever end.
    One other thing about this build that kind of drives me crazy is that everything is grey. It's very monotone. In the future I'd like to try recoloring it with a "sandy-yellowish-tan" Africa corps color scheme. My next project will defiantly be a more colorful one.
  10. charliec

    charliec Active Member

    You're lucky the ICM model is grey - the real panzergrau colour was much darker - almost black. Mmm... black fold lines on a near black model - not easy.

    Try a Tiger 1 model if you want real pain from cutting out wheels.

    Your Pz IV is coming along very nicely.


  11. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Awesome! Thanks for the pics :)
  12. ninja_doc

    ninja_doc Member

    Nice build...I'll be watching this one for tips and pointers.

  13. lriera

    lriera Member

    You are doing very well HevyKevie, I am learning a lot will your build. Be patient with the hard work I want to see more pictures of your build.
    Thank you.
  14. the4ce

    the4ce Member

    Great job:thumb:
    I think I will build the model :)

    RG WILLIAMS New Member

    Tank Build

    Super job on the pz 4. I noticed that they also offer a Russian T-34. It looks less complicated to build. Do you think this would be a better choice to build for a new modeler? It looks to be the same scale. Thanks for showing your work.

  16. KCStephens

    KCStephens Member

    Quick update

    First of all, Thank you everyone for your kind words of support.

    I don't have too much to say at this time other than I've been cutting out the parts for the road wheels for a while now. I decided to add additional details to the wheels so I am building each one as two separate parts rather than the simple one piece style the was printed out. That combined with the additional layering that I'm doing adds up to 160 parts, (10 parts ea X 16 or a total of 4 printed sheets). I'm almost done with the cutting, soon I'll be able to start gluing everything together. I'll post some new pictures of my progress here in the near future.

    I have not built the T-34 myself so I can't say if it would be less difficult than the PZ4. To me both models look to be about the same as far as skill level goes. I think either one would be a good choice for a beginner.

    I've been thinking ahead to the track construction......
    I'd like to find an easier way to cut out the very small squares where the drive gears engage the track. I like the idea of using a small chisle shaped blade but can't seem to find anything that narrow - (maybe 1/16" - 3/32" wide) Anyone out there got any ideas??? - I've tried to snap a single edge razor blade down but it really did not work too well plus I thought I was kind of pushing the saftey issue a bit too far. If worse comes to worse I guess I'll just have to use a regular #11 blade.
    Please let me know your ideas.

  17. Toddlea

    Toddlea Member

    I like to use a sharpened piece of brass box. They come in several different sizes and are about 12" long. I sharpen the end with a dremel tool. I usualy get about 30 punches or so before I have to sharpen it again.

    Attached Files:

  18. Fishcarver

    Fishcarver Active Member


    You are doing a really fine job with this model! What I particularly like is your intention to turn what is printed in 2D into 3D as that is what I like to do as well!

    Carry on with what is turning into a fine job!!

    Yer bud
  19. charliec

    charliec Active Member

    Yup - Jim Nunn - guru of AFV models came up with a solution to this one a while ago. He grinds down chisel blades (Xacto #18 blade) with a Dremel to the required width.

    A #11 blade will work but even better is a #11 scalpel blade - thinner and much sharper.

    I'd suggest doing a trial section of the ICM track - it's quite different form other track designs.


  20. Fishcarver

    Fishcarver Active Member

    Punching Track Links with Heat !

    You folks are undoubtedly aware of a little gadget called a "pyrographic" or "wood burning" pen. It is the newer, smarter, slimmer cousin of Dad's old electric soldering iron and, properly configured, can be used as a "hot knife" or a hot punch. What makes it newer and smarter is that it can be set up to use a transformer to precisely vary the amount of heat needed to do your drilling, or punching in paper. Furthermore, you can shape your own tips, as they are easily made from copper or brass.

    I have one that is called the "Hot Tool" and you can read about it here:

    Hot Tool Woodburners

    I bought mine 20 years ago when I was a beginning woodcarver. It is still going strong and it has now been retired to my scale modeling toolbox, where it occupies a place of honour and usefulness.


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