[Free Model #3] Corolla WRC 1998 New Zealand

Discussion in 'Commercial & Civilian Vehicles' started by logicman, May 6, 2008.

  1. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    Now I show the effect of stitches on the actual cardstock.

    I use strips longer than needed and cut off the excess after
    the glue has dried. It's easier to handle longer strips -
    they are so narrow that handling very short pieces is a problem.

    Attached Files:

  2. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    Now to the reason for my slowness.

    I recently moved house, and the whole place was cluttered.
    I had to build shelves for storage and put stuff out of the way.

    I also built this workbench, with a shelf at back.

    At last! I can do some modelling!

    Attached Files:

  3. Mark Crowel

    Mark Crowel Member

    I'll have to try this stitch method the next time I attempt a compound curve. It's probably the best way for my favorite material, chipboard. Stock that heavy would need glued-on stitches to hold the join together.
  4. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    Mark, I'll get back to you about the chipboard - in the UK that's what we call
    a sort of 're-constituted' wood made out of wood chips. That stuff requires
    a whole different method. Or do you mean a very heavy cardstock type?

    Latest update:

    This model is modular. The main assemblies are hood area, sides, back, roof
    chassis and wheels. The chassis is very basic, and not intended for show.
    It's there to give stiffness and strength.

    Because the assemblies are modular, it's possible to get on with one assembly
    whilst the glue on another is drying.

    Here, I show the wheels being made. A set of treads is cut out and rolled.
    Remember, I printed 3 sets of everything. This first set of treads is
    trimmed a little under-size. It will be used to shape and stiffen the wheels.

    The treads were first rolled on a jiffy-bag, then glued.
    I used hair-grips to hold the glued overlaps.

    Attached Files:

  5. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    The outer wheel disks were cut out roughly, punched, and mounted
    with some thick scrap card onto a small nut and bolt.
    You can see the assembly in the last photo, above.
    (You get better results if you can find two metal washers of
    exactly the right size. I couldn't, this time.)

    This was spun at the lowest speed in a Dremel type hand power tool.
    The card disks were very lightly sanded to a more circular shape.
    The thick card scrap keeps the sandpaper from tearing into the thin disks
    and ruining them.

    If you don't have a power tool, try to mount the disks in a nut and bolt,
    and sand lightly by hand.

    Alternatively, use a coin, washer or similar disk to cut around on the
    work surface.

    These two photos show the disks mounted in the power tool,
    and the finished disks.

    More later.

    Attached Files:

  6. Mark Crowel

    Mark Crowel Member

    Chipboard is a lightweight cardboard. It's about 1/32" thick, grayish or tan colored, and it's most often found here as backing for writing tablets. It holds curves well, and can be built into very sturdy models.

    Usually, only people with a background in the paper industry know it by this name. Here, as in the UK, many people think chipboard is the wood product you described, which we also call particleboard.

    BTW, oddly enough, Americans refer to hair clips as "bobby pins". That tidbit probably belongs in your "My Word" thread.:rolleyes:

    Are the wheels intended to roll freely on this Toyota?
  7. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    No, Mark.

    The wheels are designed to be bonded to the chassis.
    Some of the wheel parts are being glued, so whilst they dry,
    I'll show some build pictures of the hood/front bumper build.

    For the front bumper, there are 3 areas with tabs.
    I've kept only one lot, since they won't show a folded edge
    once the part is built.

    The first picture shows the knife pointing to one part
    where the row of tabs was cut off.

    The second photo shows a strip of paper which I'll explain next.

    Attached Files:

  8. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    The bumper folds up with one part at 90 deg to the other,
    producing a curved bumper.

    It can be hard work folding card tabs, so I just cut them off.

    Now. Take a strip of ordinary thin paper. Fold it in half.
    Use a sharp cutting knife to slice through both layers,
    leaving a small uncut part at the fold.

    You will notice that as you cut, the paper starts to curl.
    That's good, that's what's needed.

    For this model, I left a short central part uncut, for the
    flat area by the number-plate. This flat area was glued on first,
    with the cut-out part folded squarely up.

    Attached Files:

  9. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    Sorry for the poor image quality.
    I intend to read my camera's manual some day soon. :mrgreen:

    Once the central part had dried, I started to glue the 'shredded'
    part of the paper strip to the flat part of the bumper.

    I used modelling pins to pull the card around, so as to
    guide the paper tabs into shape. Mostly, the pins go
    into the cork tile, but some go through bits of card
    which will be invisible in the final model.

    When the glue dries, I'll apply glue to the paper tabs for
    the curved part, then repeat for the other side.

    The current work is going to be a core, onto which I will
    glue the outer skin. This makes for a much more rigid model,
    and allows for mistakes to be made at the inner core stage,
    where they will never show. :mrgreen:

    I'll try to get better focus for my next photos.

    Catch you all later.


    Attached Files:

  10. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    This next photo shows the paper strip glued to the
    entire flat part of the bumper.

    The second one shows how I've used pins to curl the front into shape
    and hold it firmly while the next lot of glue dries.

    Attached Files:

  11. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    Whilst the glue dried on the bumper, I made the second side,
    having made the first side as an easy start to the project.

    These three photos show how I've joined the two card parts
    edge to edge.

    Because these curve almost entirely in one dimension only,
    I've used a single inner card tab for stiffness.

    I usually take the blade off my hobby knife and use the handle
    to roll parts to curl them on a padded envelope (jiffy bag).

    In the first picture, I've rolled the window and door sections.
    I've also rolled a piece of scrap card, and then sliced off
    a narrow strip.

    The second picture here shows how I glued the tab inside
    the curve, making sure both parts are lined up.
    I used the knife handle to curl all three card parts
    where the tab is, pressing down on cork this time,
    so as not to overdo the curl.

    The third picture shows how for this model, there are
    two thin panel lines - representing door gaps - which
    need to be in line. The front and back can easily be
    trimmed if necessary, to align the other parts.
    The knife blade points to the line.

    More soon.


    Attached Files:

  12. Mark Crowel

    Mark Crowel Member

    This is a good tutorial. This model will have a realistic shape when it's done.
  13. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    Thanks, Mark. I'm certainly hoping for a nicely curved shape.

    Here, I'm adding parts to the sides. There are fairly thin strips,
    one each side, which help to curve the sides into the roof.

    This picture shows the thin part with the tabs cut off from one edge only.

    Attached Files:

  14. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    This next picture shows the part being glued on at two 'corners' only.

    I left plenty of waste on the part for ease of handling.

    Attached Files:

  15. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    This photo shows how the thin part is pulled in at the ends,
    after the middle part was glued up.
    There is a reverse-curl in the waste, but that is no problem.

    You can see the paper strips used on the other, upside-down body-side.
    A single tab was glued at one end, then others glued to draw in the curve.

    They need not be thin 'stitches' here,
    since the sides curve mainly in one direction only.

    Attached Files:

  16. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    This photo shows how the model is put together from sub-assemblies.

    I find it best to glue at single points, wait for that to dry, and then
    draw in and glue the rest of the curved edge.

    The wheel arch doesn't line up. wall1

    That's not a design fault. It would have been better to put the arch on
    after joining the roof, back and sides.

    I may write up a 'recommended build sequence' after I've built this.

    Attached Files:

  17. Mark Crowel

    Mark Crowel Member

    Is this repairable, or will you have to reprint and rebuild the side?:curse:
    With some of my builds, I seem to lose each minute of progress to two minutes of corrective surgery.wall1
  18. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    No worries!

    This model is built of card, but I use thin paper tabs.
    This means that if it goes pear-shaped, I just slice through
    the paper tab and try again.

    When I am satisfied that things look right, I add thicker tabs,
    or layer on more paper, depending on how much curvature there is.

    Also, this is the inner core.
    The outer card skin will be laminated on to show small gaps where
    the door and hood panels go.

    None of my many mistakes will show on the finished model. :mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:
  19. Mark Crowel

    Mark Crowel Member

    These are good ideas for making corrections easier.
  20. pahorace

    pahorace Member

    Hello Logicman,
    Your thread is really interesting.
    Beautiful work, suggested appreciable tricks :thumb:


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