[Free Model #3] Corolla WRC 1998 New Zealand

Discussion in 'Commercial & Civilian Vehicles' started by logicman, May 6, 2008.

  1. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    I've decided to put my design projects aside while I build PaperCraft's

    excellent Toyota Corolla rally car for the competition.

    Paper Craft

    More soon.


    Attached Files:

  2. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    The thumbnail above is just to show which of the many free cars I downloaded.

    I just bought some new cardstock, so I'll do some printing later and post some progress pics. I can't do it right now, I have to attend to those boring household chores such as eating. :cry:

  3. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    Okay! Printing done!

    I've printed 3 sets, one on back of a bad print run, another on my general purpose cardstock, last print run on bright white thinner, glossier card-stock. All sheets are A4.

    The first set will be used for forming and shaping, also for test-fitting.
    The next set will form the main model.
    The last set will form the outer skin panels.
    Later, I may print some detail parts like lamps on glossy photo-paper.

    I printed at Adobe reader default 100%, with the printer (Canon Pixma) set at 100% scale, high quality, no colour enhancement.

    The photo shows a difference between the cardstocks, but in better lighting the difference is greater.

    Of course, I can't start a new build without suitable tools ...

    Attached Files:

  4. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    Of course, only the pair of scissors (see above) counts as a suitable tool.

    These wallpaper shears are razor sharp and are used to quickly separate the main parts of the model, so that it is easier to cut them nearly to final size with the smaller scissors.

    Attached Files:

  5. redhorse

    redhorse Member

    Oh, this looks interesting! I'm frustrated with my own gluing attempts with glossy photo paper, so do let me know what type glue you use for it if you decide to do some detail parts that way.

    A lot of models on the paper craft site too! I hadn't seen that one yet, thanks!
  6. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    No problems, redhorse.

    I plan to do this in a 'paper models 101' style, in the spirit of the competiton rules. I'll be using tabless construction and showing a method for getting curves in two dimensions. I'll also demo various glue types.

  7. col. kurtz

    col. kurtz Member

    looks good i havent been on that stie before good jap c-1 transporter there think ill do a build thread for it :thumb:good luck in the competition !!:thumb:
  8. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    The build continues -

    Having cut out the parts with the wallpaper scissors, the next step is to cut a bit closer to the final edge with smaller scissors.

    The tabs will be cut off in this build, so the scissors can cut into them with no harm done.

    Attached Files:

  9. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    Many parts need to be nicely rounded. Different people use different methods.

    Here's the 'jiffy-bag' method. A jiffy bag is soft, with an outer layer of paper.
    Paper doesn't harm paper, so it's an ideal soft working surface.

    Take a round bar, tube, or piece of wood, place it on the card on the bag, press down each end while rolling the bar.

    Attached Files:

  10. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    The card is now curved, but only in one direction.

    Attached Files:

  11. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    Next, I'll use this hood/bonnet (GB/US English) to demonstrate the problems of double curvature in card. Maybe tomorrow.

    Coffee break time.

    Why did I choose this model.

    This is the one of the last WRC cars produced by Toyota before they withdrew from WRC. Little known outside of Spain and New Zealand, this car together with its world class driver Carlos Sainz deserves a wider audience.

    On the website linked above, of many free models, this one caught my eye because of its curves and colours. Besides, I drive that way on public roads. ;-)

    Sainz + Toyota in action:
  12. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    The saga continues:

    I printed out the bonnet on thin A4 - OK 'hood' for all you people in the majority here. :cry:

    I scaled it up and made it thin so that every defect will show:

    Attached Files:

  13. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    I have shown the cardstock hood for scale. It's in a plastic food container - useful for keeping small parts of a model together.

    You can also see my roller cutter - I've removed the blade guard and made it able to cut thicker card.

    The craft knife is pointing to the part of the hood that needs to be slit and curved.


    The hood was cut out oversize with my razor sharp wallpaper shears.
    It was rolled side-to-side on a padded bag, as described above.

    The slit has been cut out, and the sides pulled together, held with that tacky stuff with various trade names - Blu-tak etc.

    This shows how just pulling a V-shaped slit together causes paper, card, or indeed any flat sheet material to take on a curve.

    Attached Files:

  14. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    The big problem with the V-slit method is that if you dont get it just right, you get bits sticking out on the print side. And if you want a flat sheet to curve in two dimensions, the V-slot has to be curved.

    You have to pull the two curved edges together gradually, otherwise you get flat spots and wrinkles on your model.

    I shall show you the 'Viking' method next. It uses the thin strips shown in these photos.

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  15. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    It helps when trying to bring edges together to have something to hold them while you work - here I show clothes pegs used for this.

    Some models come with glue tabs attached. If you use these, especially for edge-to-edge joins, the edge of one piece will stand up on the glued model.

    Mostly, we cut off these tabs, or the designer doesn't include them in the first place. Most modellers cut out their own tabs. You can see some large squarish tabs here in the second picture:

    Attached Files:

  16. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    I need to recharge my camera batteries - and my own!

    In the last photo, you can just about see how the large tabs distort the paper. It looks even worse on the other side!

    You can also see what looks like stitches, or sutures, on the other V-slit.
    That's the Viking method.

    The Viking built their long ships in such a way that the flat, two-dimensional planks would form the beautiful ships that you see in paintings, models and museums. Of course, i doubt that their enemies would have called these longships 'beautiful'!

    The planks had curved edges, and were pulled into shape with, presumably, ropes. History records that the Vikings, frustrated by a complete lack of cyanoacrylate at their local shops, used copper wire to quite simply stitch the planks together. This method brings the curved edges together in stages, thus avoiding flat-spots.

  17. Mark Crowel

    Mark Crowel Member

    This is educational. I have not yet conquered the compound curve, and yours is a method I should try.

    I've tried to come close to making compound curves on the hood/bonnet of this 1950 Studebaker.

    Attached Files:

  18. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    Nice one, Mark!

    Those curves really add something to the '50s look.

    A tip for car modellers:
    Shiny side up. Greasy side down!

  19. Mark Crowel

    Mark Crowel Member

    Thanks. It was one of the most challenging (i.e., aggravatingwall1) models I've built.
  20. logicman

    logicman Greybeard

    It's been way too long since I updated - you'll soon see why.

    OK, the Viking method:

    Draw the edges together a little at a time, using the thin strip as 'stitches'.

    When all stitches have been made, lay a thin strip along the join line to strengthen it. Some modellers just use glue to 'backfill' a join - I prefer to
    give the glue something to bond to.

    In this photo, I have used red-printed strips for clarity.
    Note how the square tabs distort the thin paper, but the stiches curl it.

    Attached Files:

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