First Model... need help!

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by lgl007, Apr 28, 2004.

  1. jrts

    jrts Active Member

    Hi AJ

    If you look at the construction of Yamato, all the material used in her construction is 160g/m2 card (0.25mm thick) card.

    If I want a 1mm sheet I laminate three sheets together and use the printed sheet as the fourth, the glue I use is also in the thread a resin based PVA. When I do the laminating I do about 10-20 sheets at a time and place a plastic sheet between them pile them high. Then I get three of the biggest books I have and leave it for about a week to cure.

    I know its a long drawn out way of doint it, but it works well for me and I don't have a clue about all the types of board/card out there.

    Just an idea


  2. Darwin

    Darwin Member

    The brand of cardstock I mostly use is Wausau index stock, which is available at my local office supply stores in weights ranging from 65 lb up to 110 lb. I sweet-talked one of the people in the local print shop into making some legal-sized cover stock for me (feels as if it is about 65 lb). The poster board is the stuff obtainable in the stationery section of most larger department stores in sheets about 3 ft by 4 ft. I personally use glue stick for laminating...since it is reasonably dry, you don't get any wrinkling of the final product. The main problem I've encountered with the glue sticks is evenness of coverage (always manage to miss a section somewhere). I ran across one type which seems to solve that goes on the paper with a deep magenta color, which goes clear after a few minutes exposure to air (the miracles of modern chemistry). I use the good old book press technique to pressure-cure the laminated pages. So far I have not encountered any problems with delamination, even with models that have been around for two or three years. I have started using matt board (obtainable from most framing shops) for parts requiring real thickness and strength (2 mm type stuff). So far, no problems with any of it trying to turn into mush, especially after hardening it with thin cyanoacrylate.
  3. wunwinglow

    wunwinglow Active Member

    I have an Epson C82 and I have frequently run card (and plastic sheet) up to 0.75mm thick through it, and even 1mm on a couple of occasions, although with this the ink head just kissed the surface on each pass smearing the image a little. No problem, these were internal parts and the outline was fine. Most Epsons have a fairly flat paper path, while a lot of other printers roll the paper through almost 180 degrees, so cannot take thick stock at all. Something to bear in mind when buying a new printer.

    Tim P
  4. Ron

    Ron Member

    For formers and other 1mm pieces, the protective backings sold in comic book stores work great. These are the sheets used to go in the bag with a comic to keep them from bending. 200 sheets in comic book size was about 10.00 Canadian. If the thickness isn't all that important, artists mounting board is available in solid black and white and is about the toughest stuff out there. The beauty of this stuff is that it cuts very cleanly but can be brutal on #11 blades.

  5. Matte board is tough on #11s as you say. Thats why I made up the Stanley11-921 blade holder I've got in my album.
  6. wunwinglow

    wunwinglow Active Member

    Anyone tried laminating curved pieces together? Hey, it worked for the De Havilland Mosquito, amongst others! I think you would need a former to pull the laminations over. I seem to remember an old technique of making boat hulls out of old-fashioned gummed brown paper parcel tape, wetting them to moisten the glue, then laying diagonally over the mould. Then again diagonally the other way, and so on, allowing each layer to dry before adding the next. A bit like laying up glass fibre I suppose!

    Just a thought,

    Tim P
  7. Tim;

    I've been doing the design work for a space craft to fit on top of a 1/72 scale Shuttle External Tank and Solid Rocket Boosters. The model is being designed in two versions, amanned orbiter and a unmanned cargo carrier.What you could call the service or propulsion module is a truncated cone that for the pilot builds so far I have been using a former made from a cup for a tapered roller bearing with the bore machined to the angle of the cone. The parts for the cone are prerolled and assembled inside the former. There may be shots of this in the old site archives. I'll look and see or either post new shots.
  8. charliec

    charliec Active Member

    Laminating curved pieces together works very well for gun mantlets in AFV models. This technique was suggested in the tanks2scale site's Panther model. Would be interesting to see if it could be done for the more complex armour pieces like the "saukopf" mantlet used on late Wehrmacht AFVs and some of the later Russian tank turrets.


  9. Gil

    Gil Active Member


    Using two layers has two very useful purposes..., first it does allow a "set" to be molded into a section but requires this be done expedistiously as you have to start over if the glue sets before you've got the desired "set" right. Second by offsetting the underlayment it provides for a tab to insert into the next section. Accuracy is of course necessary but the technique works extremely well. I have a partial design of a Vought OU-1 fuselage executed in this manner and it only needed two formers. One forward and one in the after section. The structure came out extremely rigid. I still have the built up nose section if anyone wants to look at it. The file is also still around somewheres.

    Best regards, Gil
  10. Ajax

    Ajax Member

    Wow, this thread really took off yesterday! Thanks everyone for the great info. I can report today that I've had a bit of a breakthrough with Elmer's Glue-All (Well, a breakthrough for me, this was probably common sense to you all. ;) ). I thought I'd post it anyway just in case it might help somebody else out.

    My attempts so far that had failed consisted of trying to glue posterboard and Bristol together, yet this always resulted in noticeable moisture distortion to the surface of the Bristol. I was applying the glue to the non-treated side of the posterboard, and it finally (duh! :oops: ) occurred to me that with one side of the posterboard treated such that it was relatively impervious to moisture there was of course only one way the moisture was going to go... up into the Bristol (And especially so when your stacking them such that the treated posterboard surface that is on the bottom of the next laminated sheet is right on top of the Bristol from the sheet below - creating a sandwich effect).

    So I tried again, this time inserting a couple sheets of this junk computer paper that I've had laying around (you can practically see through it) between the sheets and voila! The surface of the Bristol came out practically distortion free while the cheapo paper was full of wrinkles from absorbing the moisture that had been forced out by the "book press."

  11. lgl007

    lgl007 Member

    Hmmm interesting... so you guys are glueing different thickness of card board to get new thicknesses. I just ran out to my local art supply shop with my handy caliper and bought paper of the appropriate thickeness for my P-51 project. I needed .5mm, 1mm and 1.5mm ... I had no problems finding these thicknesses and it was very cheap to boot.

    The Halinski P-51 project is going quite well... I have been writing an article about the whole experience and will post it for everyone to read... with lots and lots of pictures ;-) once it is complete. So far I am almost 40 hours into the project and I'm in the home stretch... should be another 10 hours or so...

    Cheers gang.


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