First model help

[RaiderCTE]

Ok, I have finally gotten the cornerstone Interstate Fuel kit. It has been a long time since I have built any models and I didn't know what some "secrets" where to have a good looking model. I have only looked at what is in the box and have already picked out pieces that I will paint before building. My main question is glueing this sucker together. I sort of remember using the modelers cement and it getting messy or getting some on your finger then the model. Is that still the way, of course I will probably take a little more time than I did when I was kid. I did a search but entering glue or cement gives you enough reading for about a year. Like always, thanks in advance.

 

[marty w.]

I use Testor's liquid glue. I purchase it at my LHS.
I apply the liquid glue with a small brush to the inside of the joint.
Make sure that your joint is nice and square. Don't apply too much because the glue will "wick" into the joint. It does not take too long for the glue to set. The glue melts the plastic to form the bond.
Marty

 

[Clerk]

Marty.
Did you mean Testers Plastic liquid glue?

 

[marty w.]

Yes Dick. Testors Liquid Cement for Plastic.
Marty

 

[absnut]

Testor's is great. I like to use Tenax because I think it bonds just a little faster.

Dick

 

[Russ Bellinis]

RaiderCTE, I remember using the glue in tubes to build model air planes and cars when I was a kid. I always had a problem with the stuff getting all over the place, and making a mess. I didn't know about liquid glues in jars back then. The old model glues had thickeners in them that made a mess. You want a glue that has about the consistency of water. Most of the glues are either acetone, or laquer thinner based. I like a Testors glue that comes in a black "tilted square" bottle with a long spout. I have found that I can dispense the glue from the spout on the inside of a joint and make clean tight connections. If you build any white metal kits, you will need acc (aka super glue), and if you build anything with Plastruct you may need their glue, because some of the plastics they use are impervious to the Testors.

 

[TinGoat]

MEK and other adhesives...

The Testors Liquid cement contains Methel Ethel Ketone. It is used to melt Styrene Plastic to bond it. It is also toxic, so make sure that you don't get any on your skin. It is quickly absorbed and it attacks the nervous system.

Originally posted by Russ Bellinis
if you build anything with Plastruct you may need their glue, because some of the plastics they use are impervious to the Testors.

You need to pay attention to the type of plastic that you are using. For the most part, models are made from styrene and you should have no problem using the Liquid Cement, Crazy Glue, and other "Gap filling" cements.

Evergreen brand stuff is mostly styrene.

I think that the Plastruct stuff is ABS plastic. The Crazy glue should work, but the other types of glue won't.

If you have a well stocked LHS or Hardware store, read the labels on all the different glues and find out what they work on. Then get yourself a variety of different glues and epoxies for your workbench.

I find that having a selection of different glues is handy. Some stuff is more forgiving as it sets slowly and lets you reposition things. Other stuff sets right away and doesn't give you time to correct mistakes or make adjustments.

You may also want to get the big caulking tubes of adhesives for attaching foam to benchwork, fascia to the sides of your layout and roadbed to foam, etc....

Like they say....

Variety is the spice of life!

 

[Russ Bellinis]

You're right Plastruc is ABS. I couldn't remember that name for the life of me! Having another "senior moment" I guess. Anyway, Plastruc has a glue in a jar with a brush in the cap that works great with the ABS. I prefer to use a finer brush to apply it than what is in the cap however.

 

[60103]

I used to use a 000 paintbrush to put on the plastic glue. Now I use those little plastic brushes that have a minute blob of cotton on the tip.
I find the best joints are made where you line up the parts and then let the glue seep into the joint, although sometimes you have to apply to the mating surfaces first.

 

[RaiderCTE]

Not that this is scratched or bashed. It does have some weathering done even though it is hard to tell because of lighting. Here is the "office" just dropped in. Thanks for the help.

 

[Lighthorseman]

Looks GREAT!!

Beautiful work. Pat yourself on the back.

 

[Russ Bellinis]

Nice job; looks great!

 

[Tyson Rayles]

Looks nice Raider, is that the N or HO version?

 

[RaiderCTE]

Tyson, that is HO. I have the tanks built now, but I need some help on how to weather them. I have no idea where to start so I will get a pic so you guys can give me some suggestions. Thanks all.

 

[RaiderCTE]

I need some ideas

I need some ideas on how to weather these guys. If these are used for gasoline, would they have rust? The only one I have ever seen in real life is about 2 or 3 hours away and I don't know if it still there after quite a few years. Thanks.

 

[Russ Bellinis]

You might have a little rust at the welds. You would expect to have dust settle on the tanks, and then kind of run down with the rain.

 

[Drew1125]

Nice work on that kit RaiderCTE!!
(looks like a cool layout too)
That's a great kit!
I incorporated part of the N scale version into my chemical plant.