First Build: M5A1 Stuart Light Tank

Discussion in 'Armory & Military' started by PakMan, Oct 29, 2006.

  1. charliec

    charliec Active Member

    The GPM Panther is, as you say, quite simplistic - but it's reasonably accurate. There are obviously a lot of deficiencies compared to Halinski's Panther but the Halinski model can take many months to complete. The Modelik King Tiger has got some fairly glaring errors. For example the positioning of the suspension swing arms is just wrong. I seem to remember that the swing arm orientations are wrong as well - one side should point forward on German tanks. There are comments on the GPM King Tiger in the forums but you'd have to go back a couple of years.

    Thanks for the RGB value - your approximated value is reasonably close to the RGB value for the official FS colour with a bit of scale effect applied - I'll give it a try on the Sherman and see how it looks.

    Just a thought - have you seen the cardmodelling video on the Yamaha site? It spends quite a bit of time showing the techniques of preshaping parts.


  2. PakMan

    PakMan New Member

    charlie -

    thanks for the yamaha URL tip - that was perfect! whoever was giving the demos made everything look ridiculously easy (like i'd ever be able to draw a long straight cut like that! ha!), but that was extremely helpful. thank you!

    and, after taking a look at the patterns in the Modelik King Tiger kit, i believe you're right: the suspension detail isn't exactly perfect.

    but now i realized why i got the Modelik kit instead of the GPM one in the first place: the GPM version, at least the one i found, was of the early King Tiger with the Porsche turret. i've always been a Henschel turret man myself...:grin:
  3. sdk2knbk

    sdk2knbk Guest

    I didn't say Haunted Tank originally in case that wasn't what Stev0 meant, but it is the one I'm talking about. Also one of my favorite comics here. Sometime I'd like to take a shot at kitbashing the tank that replaced their M3, also a "kitbash" of sorts, if I recall correctly. (I had the issue that happened in, until my 5th grade teacher confiscated it as "contraband":cry: ) Anyway, keep up the good work! I'm enjoying seeing this one come together.

    Scott K.
  4. Stev0

    Stev0 Active Member

  5. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

    It's very cool that someone has gone to the trouble to do actual videos. I'm sure these will help a lot of folks. But 2 things they recommended really took me aback.

    One was to NOT use a straightedge, ever! I suppose I can make a freehand cut almost as good as the dude in the video, but they are so much better and easier using an edge for long cuts - I really don't understand what their issue with that is.

    Second was usign a finger for the glue. I think I've seen others on the forums say they do this, but I can't begin to imagine it. I'd have glue all over everything! Plus, how do you get glue on millimeter size bits this way?

    Anyway, thanks for the link!

  6. I never use a straight-edge to make straight cuts so maybe I can provide some insight into the point of view. If you try to line up a straight-edge with a line, you mostly will get it right, except when you don't. Since the straight-edge has thickness, however, the actual cut line is subject to parallax, the straight-edge moving, etc. The other thing is that I've never figured out the logic that would suggest that one can cut curved lines without something to direct the blade but not straight lines. Seems at least counter-intuitive to me.

    I'm with you here. I have a hard enough time keeping glue off my fingers.

    Cheers --- Larry
  7. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    That guy defintely does not drink caffiene - talk about a steady hand!
  8. PakMan

    PakMan New Member

    so what do you guys use to spread the glue? this is obviously why i'm getting blobs of glue all over the place! d'oh!

    i use a syringe applicator for the fine stuff, but when it comes to gluing the skins and larger areas, i obviously need something a bit better...

    as for NOT using a straightedge, for me i think that'd be a recipe for disaster! the poor old M5 would look like some old run-down cabin sagging into the ground! :grin:
  9. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    I use round toothpicks but as soon as my supply is gone I am going to flat toothpicks. I might try cheapo paintrushes tooa s it sems those work well for many.
  10. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

    Round toothpicks here too. Whittle 'em down if'n I really need to get something small.
  11. rlwhitt

    rlwhitt Active Member

    I suppose I can see this point, but I usually feel better with the edge if I've got to go further than about 3-4" or so. Unless it moves. Then it's a mess.

  12. charliec

    charliec Active Member

    I usually thin the glue out with water and apply with a fine brush. Usually you don't have to coat the whole surface with glue - just around the edges. If the part is curved over a frame just glue the edges - stops the part sagging on every frame. I always liked Jim Nunn's rule (he's one of the uber armour modellers around) - if you can see the glue you've applied too much.


  13. PakMan

    PakMan New Member

    hey, all -

    there was enough light to see by today (still haven't gotten my light!), so i made a little more progress.

    the first thing i did was to attach the other transmission housing bulge to the front of the hull. i have to confess having at least as much trouble with this one as the first, and perhaps more (the new one is on the left in the photo). i think it boils down to having to work a lot more with complex-folding parts - i tried to get it to fit properly before applying any glue, but just couldn't seem to get the doggone thing to shape properly. so, when all else fails, pour some glue on the sucker and stick it on there! :grin:

    the next thing was to skin the upper hull, and here's where i made a combination of a major mistake, and also a possible fit issue. it's hard to see in the photo, below, but the skin that covers the sides of the hull sponsons and the engine deck (and rear) is a single piece that has a number of folds to follow the hull contours. i added this piece last - after doing the front glacis plate and the skin that covers the driving compartment and turret - and in retrospect i should have probably put it on before the glacis and upper/front hull pieces.

    in the closeup below, you can see that i wound up with a significant gap between the engine compartment and fighting compartment top skins. of course, everything seemed to fit well when i dry fit the pieces! but i think i should've probably done the engine deck/side wraparound piece first, then made sure the fighting compartment top piece was butting up against it.

    but that brings up another little problem: as it sits, the fighting compartment top skin seems to center properly over the hole for the turret in the support structure. so i'm not sure i would've been able to fix that gap or not. as it is, i'll paint it, or possible even see if i can "fill" it with paper strips to bring it flush with the other pieces.

    i was actually surprised, however, that the hull rear came out fairly well. in the photo below, you can see that the pieces that make up the overhang for the engine compartment seemed to come right together. i don't think the fit was so good further forward along the top corners of the sponsons, but i figure i can cover that up a bit later with some paint touchup.

    lastly, the engine intakes on the top of the hull have inserts in them (the black pieces in the photo below) - make sure you put these on before you glue on the engine compartment skin! as usual, it's not apparent from the instructions, but keep this in mind. these will need a little paint touch-up to mask the white, but came out fairly well. to finish these off, there is a frame and mesh that's supposed to go over the top, but i'll add those later.

    the one thing about these little box assemblies for the intakes that got me was that there is an olive-drab colored part in the aft intake that angles downward. unfortunately, i wasn't sure if this was supposed to be on the front side or the rear, so i made a command decision and oriented it to slant downward from the rear.

    so, that's where i am at the moment. this certainly isn't going to be a museum-quality piece like some of you good folks make, but it's a lot of fun!! :grin:

    Attached Files:

  14. Amazyah

    Amazyah Senior Member

    And that dear sir, is the number 1 reason for card modeling!

    Thanks for sharing your build with us, the fun and excitement is contageous!

    Your build is coming along just swell and it certainly does not have to be museum quality to be fun to watch!

    Keep up the good work my friend!:grin:

  15. charliec

    charliec Active Member

    I wonder if the fit problem might have been caused by using PVA glue over a large area. My thought is that card might have got wet enough to shrink a little.
    I have seen a suggestion to use a glue stick for large areas because that adhesive doesn't cause any shrinkage of the card.

    I think this hobby would become boring quickly if there wasn't a learning curve on just about every model. Personally I don't think the point is to produce museum quality but to have fun and be challenged.


  16. Stev0

    Stev0 Active Member

    Carefully color matched you can easily paint your way out of troubles with mismatches.
  17. PakMan

    PakMan New Member

    well, i probably won't win any prizes for paint matching, but if i can get fairly close i think i can cover up a lot of sins through weathering. i'm planning to do with the Stuart what i did with the plastic armored vehicles i used to build: build it as a "brand new" vehicle and then try to make it look like it ran through every hedgerow and stone wall from normandy to the rhine! and with all the tarps, bedrolls, ammo boxes, etc. that the crews always strung on their vehicles, there might not be too much left showing! :grin:

    as for the glue, i suppose some shrinkage is possible, but i don't think that's it in this particular case - i'm using weldbond, and it doesn't stay "wet" long enough to soak in much. this is one reason i'm considering using plain elmer's glue for larger pieces that i might have to monkey with a little - the weldbond sets too darned fast. what i was thinking i probably should try next time is to use a non-permanent adhesive (i'm sure my wife has some - she's got bloody drawers of different glues!) to just tack the skins on to test the fit. then once it looks like they're as they should be, taking one skin piece at a time and gluing it down permanently.

    thanks again everyone for the encouragement! :)
  18. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Looking great so far! My only suggestion might be a bit of edge color. :D
  19. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Hey pakman - Hows this going? Havent heard from ya in a while....
  20. PakMan

    PakMan New Member

    chris -

    hey, i'm still here! just haven't had any building time over the holidays. i'm hoping to fix that soon and post some more updates! :)



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