first and second models EVER

Discussion in 'General Card Modeling' started by bazookie, Dec 8, 2006.

  1. bazookie

    bazookie Member

    hey guys. recently got into this hobby. these are the 2 that i actually finished and put effort in. previous attempts at other things ended up with me scrunching it up in fustration. before i post the pics, i wanted to ask a nub question. These two models i have been making them with normal a4 paper. is there anything wrong with this and what are the limitation compared to cardstock or whatever you call it?

    the two models are a madcat mech and a walker from alternate realms:-D







    crit my work here xD... also, what dus it mean by scoring?
  2. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Scoring is basically drawing a line on the paper with something to allow it to fold easier. SOme use empty ball point pens, some dull xacto knife blades and some (like me) use a fiskars embossing tool :)

    Your builds look pretty good to me! Standard copy paper wont last very long and warps pretty easy. cardstock is a much better choice if you want your model to last.
    hope that helps!
  3. ekuth

    ekuth Active Member

    Looks great! Keep up the good work.

    As far as the paper goes, your standard weight paper for printing and typing is good, but weak and flimsy. I use it for small detail parts that are too tough to roll with cardstock.

    To make your models more sturdy and to make construction easier, try using a medium weight cardstock. I use heavyweight on all my builds.

    I score with a seam ripper- it's perfect for the job.
  4. bazookie

    bazookie Member

    haha thanks guys. yea i found out what scoring is on google after i posted... i just realised i had been doing it all along. the first one had no scoring but the mad cat had.... i use the back of my knife to score it... it is pretty sharp but not sharp enough to cut it... what do u mean that my model will fall apart? what if i just keep it on the shelf? is it that the glue will fall apart or the paper will crumble? :cry:
  5. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    The just get crumpled really easily. :)
  6. Stev0

    Stev0 Active Member

    The camera is a little too close. Your focal point is totally off. I can read the keys on your keyboard in the background but can't make out detail in the background.

    To keep in line with the quality and type of models your building. Try this gem.


    If you can reshoot 1 of each model you have already built by not shooting so close that would be great. I'd like to see what you have done.

    Take a peek at a mech I am working on here. I am only in the beta stage so once I have got the legs to work I will procede to mockup and then texture and release.

    Anyway. Good to see more mecha builds. :D

    Here's something that isn't mine to get you to drool a lil.... :D
  7. bazookie

    bazookie Member

    stevo thanks for the crit. the pictures are bad cos they are taken with a phone camera. also, i am in the process or making that mech from sf papercraft. i have made the main body and will finish the legs tomorrow. 8)

    good to hear you are designing a mech. xD can't wait for the release.
  8. thewoodengraver

    thewoodengraver Active Member PAPER!!!
    Anybody play that game on Super Nintendo?

    Those look really great on paper. I personally use 110# cardstock for everything I build...even my tinies...personal preference is all.
    I think if it works for it.

    GREAT pics for a phone/camera! But I agree with StevO, it's hard to critique something out of more pics!!!...and don't be afraid to build them tiny!
  9. SCEtoAux

    SCEtoAux Member

    Something you could try when using regular paper instead of cardstock is to wad up some tissue paper and stuff it in the hollows. Don't over stuff because that would distort the shape. Put just enough in to firm up the piece and support it. Go to a discount store and buy the cheap stuff.:yep:

    Some other scoring tools to consider would be small crocheting needles. I have encased some in scrap wood to make them easier to handle. They work good.

    I use a blade from a utility knife to help in making short folds. I line the fold line up with the edge of the blade. A long metal ruler helps in making long folds.
  10. bazookie,

    Your models look pretty darn good to me, despite the light weight paper you used. I have also built the Mad Cat mech using 110 lb cardstock. I can't imagine how difficult the build must have been for you using unreinforced bond paper. If your work comes out this good using regular old copy paper, I can't wait to see what you can do with cardstock.

  11. bazookie

    bazookie Member

    haha thanks rockpapersciscors... yea its ur thread that made me make the mad cat. it looked pretty good so i made it.

    problem is with cardstock, i don't think there is such thing in australia. is it just carboard? i think we call them cardboard in australia and they don't really have weighting on it. you buy a big sheet from the newsagent.

    i think my normal paper is pretty easy.. it's only hard making REALLY tiny things. like the sensor on the green robot thing on sf paper models.
  12. lizzienewell

    lizzienewell Member

    Those are really smooth looking for being out of bond paper. When I use bond for larger parts they sort of look warped.

    Cardstock also called cover-stock is usually sold right beside bond paper. I get the stuff that is acid free that is marketed to scrapbooker enthusiasts. It is also the same stuff used for business cards. I use bond paper for some parts and also buy the acid free stuff. If the ph of the paper is too low, the paper gets yellow over time.

    I'm still figuring out archivability of glues. I'm using Lineco Neutral ph PVA (white glue) when I can but I'm also using CA (Percision Gel Superglue) and Yes Paste. I'm unsure of how these will hold up over time.

  13. You gotta have cardstock in Australia! Probably just known under a different name. The weight is similar to an index card or a business card, or a holiday or birthday greeting card. If you have a photocopy place or a printer nearby they are sure to have cardstock equivalent paper on hand. Perhaps they'd let you buy a half dozen sheets so you can try it out.
    Good luck,
  14. bazookie

    bazookie Member

    would it be called cardboard? do u have cardboard over at your place?
  15. Stev0

    Stev0 Active Member

    Go to a printer and ask them where you can get 40lb-90lb Coverstock or Cardstock.
  16. charliec

    charliec Active Member

  17. bazookie

    bazookie Member

    orly? what weights would be the best? i don't want ones too hard... maybe just a tad heavier than normal paper? what would u recommend? i saw in woolworths today that they had 80gsm copy paper. is this it? is 80gsm good?
  18. charliec

    charliec Active Member

    Nope - 80gsm is what the Americans call 20lb - it's o.k. for very small parts and rolling tubes but too thin for structural parts. Most people seem to recommend 160gsm for models, perhaps 120gsm if you're building small and 200gsm for large models. It really comes down to what your building style best suits - I'd guess around 160gsm suits most models.

    If you build models with frames - these thicknesses are normally expressed in mm - in Oz cereal packet (like Cornflakes) card is around 0.5mm. You'll probably add a vernier caliper to your toolbox if you get really sucked into this hobby.


  19. bazookie

    bazookie Member

    ok... can u suggest newhere that sells them in sydney? officeworks are very hard to come by without car....
  20. sakrison

    sakrison Member

    I prefer 65# cardstock for most models. It holds its shape better than typing paper. Lighter paper is good for smaller parts. I've used up to 80#--the heaviest my printer will handle easily.

    A note on scoring. When you want a very crisp corner, score the front side and fold away from the scoring. For a slightly rounded corner (leading edges of stabilizers and fins, and the like), score the back side and fold toward the scoring.

    Hm. A seam-ripper for scoring, what a great idea!

    One good tool deserves another: I use a shot glass to hold my glue. I bought mine for 50 cents at a garage sale. Shot glasses have concave bottoms just right for holding a small dollop of white glue; placed upside down on the workbench, a shot glass is heavy, stable, and compact. It's easy to clean (warm water and a little elbow grease). And when I finish a project, I can turn it right side up and celebrate.

    No worries,

Share This Page