First aircraft - Rob's FJ-1

Discussion in 'Aircraft & Aviation' started by Larry Marshall, Sep 8, 2006.

  1. Hi Bob,

    I'm an old gummy-bander as well. I've built flying models for almost 50 years. I spent 3 years as editor-in-chief of Model Airplane News and have written columns for most of the North American model magazines. Currently I write Small Talk for Flying Models. I also write for some of the miniatures magazines.

    So I'm fairly versed in using 'other' media to do these tasks. What I'm trying to learn is card modeling and while I'm not a purist, you don't learn anything by falling back on what you know so I'm avoiding that. But you're right, there is more than one way to skin a cat.

    My basement has more of that stuff in it than all of the hobby shops in this town combined :)

    Not true...I know the people at Pacer. There are only a couple places that actually make the active ingredient in CAs but how they're buffered, how they're stabilized, and how they're filtered (or not) is up to whoever is packaging them.

    Cheers --- Larry
  2. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Awesome! Thanks :) I prolly still would have made it wrong somehow - I am good at that :) How did you expect this thread to go? I am getting lots of great info and NO ONE discredits Rob's work :D
  3. shrike

    shrike Guest

    Cardstock will hold a shape once it's been formed. There's some springback, but extra time taken in forming saves frustration in glueing.

    Almost every curved piece in a paper model is a simple curve. (you CAN co compound curves, but only within limits) That means that everything can be rolled to one extent or another.
    I like to use a soft rubber pad, like a vinyl eraser, and a selection of dowels, used rolling pin fashion. By varying the pressure and diameter of the roller, you can preform a section into whatever shape you need. For a smaller radius, a smaller dowel or heavier pressure, for a larger the opposite.
    With a little practice you can make a fuselage section with edges that join up without any tension, ready to glue.

    Even without formers to match shapes to, you can still get the shape about right by assuming that the end of the section will be a flat plane. Having some info on the sections of a given plane will help alot too<G>
    With some practice you'll be able to look at most laid out panels and be able to estimate the final form fromthe flat shape.
  4. shrike

    shrike Guest

    Oh yeah, and while I loathe using CA glue, I heartily recommend that everyone else use as much of it as possible, as I own stock in Pacer, and I'd really like it to eventually be worth more that it cost 25 years ago
  5. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

    Hey Shrike..........long time no hear!

    Larry......... thanks for the pictures, that was great. One thing......... you can leave the wire in, snip it long on both ends, bend it 90 degrees on the bottom end, snip it off just long enough to glue the wheel to. You can also cut a narrow strip and wrap & glue over the wire at the bend to cover it up.

    On the other end, snip it off just long enough to go through the paper on the bottom of the wing, and CA glue it in place. Or bend it also 90 degrees and slip it into the wing. This gives the glue a little something extra to hold to and keep the gear in place and support the plane better. Same on the nose gear, except on the wheel attachment, nose gears are always different.

    And hey.............. THIS IS what this site is all about............learning and spreading the word on Card Modeling!

  6. lizzienewell

    lizzienewell Member

    I came into this from working with clay so use some ideas from that medium. Wet clay doesn't hold it's shape all that well but it's easy to push around. To work with this you can build a support structure that holds the clay in place until it dries. Once the clay drys some, you can carve it. Much of this work depends on controlling the water content of the clay. Sometimes you can make the support out of paper and it burns off in the kiln.
    For glue I've been using Yes Paste and Percision Gel Superglue. I don't know what Yes paste is made of but the lable claims that it's acid free. I basically need two kinds of glue. One kind needs to add mosture and to have a long working time so that I can adjust the parts as the clue dries and the paper changes shape. I also need very fast setting glue that doesn't change the shape of the paper. For this I use the CA superglue.
    I only build without formers if the model is very small. I'd like to try the stuff I learned working with clay of building over removable supports.
    I spread the paste with a painter's knife. It's basically a small spatula.

    recently I've discovered rolling paper around a core of matboard. I use 1/16" matboard cut 1/16" wide so it's a square cross section. I soften and round the corners by wetting it slightly and rolling it between my fingers. Then, I glue a strip of bond paper to the core with CA and roll the rest of it with paste until the end when I again use CA.
    I suppose I could get it even rounder by sanding or bevel cutting the core.

  7. I can relate to that :)

    I wasn't sure as there seems no precedent for it. Take a look at all the build-alongs on the site. They're all done by the experts. I think that's to be expected as they're the guys who are confident enough in their abilities to do them.

    BUT...while these are great resources, they do sort of 'jump over' a lot of the basics that newbies have questions about, what people building simple models may have questions about, etc. This, by the way, isn't unique to card modeling. It occurs in groups about every form of modeling. Not enough newbies willing to put their glue-stained, ill-fit projects before the masses. In any case, I'm glad things are going the way they are in this thread.

    Cheers --- Larry
  8. Aside from my 'just learnin' ability problem, I guess where I have trouble is that word "about" in your description. I can get "about" from the segment I'm gluing and I can get "about" from the segment I'm gluing to but that leaves me two "abouts" that are being forced/held in position by the glue. Throw in my limited abilities and the result are less than perfect results. Compare this method to how Carl is getting his parts shaped accurately enough around formers to be able to butt-join them and you'll get a picture of the differences I see in assembly approaches.

    BTW, I concur with your comments about CA use. I used to use a lot more of it. Then a lot of my friends developed allergies so bad that they can't even be in a room with an open bottle of the stuff. It's far too useful for some purposes to use it as a general adhesive or as a paper stiffener, in my view, as I want to minimize the risk of losing my ability to use it when I just GOTTA use it in a particular circumstance.

    Cheers --- Larry
  9. Good tips...this sort of rounds out the 'rolled parts' tutorial you so graciously presented. Thanks.

    Couldn't agree more.

    Cheers --- Larry
  10. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Another question for ya :) what size wire was that you used to roll those up? Last question for at least 5 minutes....
  11. The size that happened to be sitting on my workbench (grin)? I just measured it and it comes up .031" so I'd guess it's sold as 1/32" piano wire. But don't take that as the "right" size, though it did generate a good diameter from John's parts. I have a stash of piano wire, plastic rod, brass tube and wood dowels in a variety of sizes. I plan to put together a "set" of these for these purposes but my cardmodeling isn't that organized yet :)

    Cheers --- Larry
  12. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    I keep hearing references to piano wire. I am gonna have to get some of that stuff :)
  13. 46rob

    46rob Member

    Piano wire is almost a spring wire--I wouldn't recommend it, instead--. I bought a roll of .032 safety wire (mechanics's wire) at Harbor Freight Tools, and use it for most everything that I need a bit of wire for. I also have a bunch of .020 and up brass wire from the hobby shop, that I use a lot as well. Florists' wire is great, because its soft and easily bent into complex shapes. Don't forget straightened paper clips and staples as sources for thin wire. For really thin wire, for antennae, rigging and such, try unbraiding an old lamp cord. A gentle tug to straighten it results in a hair fine wire, almost perfectly straight.
  14. Handy stuff. K&S are the major sellers of it in the hobby world. You'll find their racks in most hobby shops.

    Cheers --- Larry

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