Finished VATERLAND pics

[mellotronage]

Nice job! How did you do the rigging?

-Ski

The rigging is done with tungsten steel wire, .009 diameter. I figure when trying to simulate wire, what better to use than real wire, right? I buy my wire from www.smallparts.com Tungsten comes in 30 & 60 inch lenghts, to the tune of about $2.25 a piece for the 30 inch variety. It can be as small as .005, I think that's as thin as they make it. I use .005 on my 1:72 scale subjects.
Yeah, it's a tad expensive. But I love the results. A stock of tungsten, a geometry compass/divider to measure runs, and some CA glue to attach the runs and you're there!
I measure runs with the compass/divider, and place it next to a length of tungsten on my cutting mat and crimp the tungsten with a #17 blade, then cut the wire with wire cutters.
Stainless steel wire is also readily available, but tungsten is not quite as silvery/shiny ~ which is why I prefer to use it versus stainless.

And lastly, thank you everyone for being so complimentary! I am really getting into the paper kits, and this site is a intergral reason why.

Be good and stay well.~ Craig

 

[mellotronage]

Nice job! How did you do the rigging?

-Ski

The rigging is done with tungsten steel wire, .009 diameter. I figure when trying to simulate wire, what better to use than real wire, right? I buy my wire from www.smallparts.com Tungsten comes in 30 & 60 inch lenghts, to the tune of about $2.25 a piece for the 30 inch variety. It can be as small as .005, I think that's as thin as they make it. I use .005 on my 1:72 scale subjects.
Yeah, it's a tad expensive. But I love the results. A stock of tungsten, a geometry compass/divider to measure runs, and some CA glue to attach the runs and you're there!
I measure runs with the compass/divider, and place it next to a length of tungsten on my cutting mat and crimp the tungsten with a #17 blade, then cut the wire with wire cutters.
Stainless steel wire is also readily available, but tungsten is not quite as silvery/shiny ~ which is why I prefer to use it versus stainless.

And lastly, thank you everyone for being so complimentary! I am really getting into the paper kits, and this site is a intergral reason why.

Be good and stay well.~ Craig

 

[swiftsword]

Very nice! - but don't you have the wrong ensign on it? I seem to recall the Vaterland came to the US after WWI, so she wouldn't have been flying the black-red-gold, but rather black-white-red, no?


Cheers,


Oliver

 

[swiftsword]

Very nice! - but don't you have the wrong ensign on it? I seem to recall the Vaterland came to the US after WWI, so she wouldn't have been flying the black-red-gold, but rather black-white-red, no?


Cheers,


Oliver

 

[mellotronage]

Very nice! - but don't you have the wrong ensign on it? I seem to recall the Vaterland came to the US after WWI, so she wouldn't have been flying the black-red-gold, but rather black-white-red, no?


Cheers,


Oliver

I believe VATERLAND came to the US just prior to WW1. At the outbreak of war she was interned by the US government, and kept at a Hoboken, NJ pier for approx. 3 years.
She was kept by the US govenment and used as a troop ship toward the end of the war, and re-named LEVIATHAN, at the suggestion of President Woodrow Wilson.
She was plagued by top heaviness and rolled badly if I recall what I've read, and suffered from a terrible vibration in the stern that became less noticeable toward the bow. A change of propellers lessened the vibration, but never completely went away.

 

[mellotronage]

Very nice! - but don't you have the wrong ensign on it? I seem to recall the Vaterland came to the US after WWI, so she wouldn't have been flying the black-red-gold, but rather black-white-red, no?


Cheers,


Oliver

I believe VATERLAND came to the US just prior to WW1. At the outbreak of war she was interned by the US government, and kept at a Hoboken, NJ pier for approx. 3 years.
She was kept by the US govenment and used as a troop ship toward the end of the war, and re-named LEVIATHAN, at the suggestion of President Woodrow Wilson.
She was plagued by top heaviness and rolled badly if I recall what I've read, and suffered from a terrible vibration in the stern that became less noticeable toward the bow. A change of propellers lessened the vibration, but never completely went away.

 

[beejay]

hello mellotronage
I am sorry but swiftsword is correct. The red, black and yellow ensign is for post WW2 use on German ships.
Vaterland would have worn the black, white and red German Merchant ensign both before and after WW1.
Please see the following link:
http://www.gwpda.org/naval/s0210000.jpg
However it is easily corrected and in no way detracts from what is a excellent model
VBR
beejay

 

[beejay]

hello mellotronage
I am sorry but swiftsword is correct. The red, black and yellow ensign is for post WW2 use on German ships.
Vaterland would have worn the black, white and red German Merchant ensign both before and after WW1.
Please see the following link:
http://www.gwpda.org/naval/s0210000.jpg
However it is easily corrected and in no way detracts from what is a excellent model
VBR
beejay

 

[Teamski]

The rigging is done with tungsten steel wire, .009 diameter. I figure when trying to simulate wire, what better to use than real wire, right? I buy my wire from www.smallparts.com Tungsten comes in 30 & 60 inch lenghts, to the tune of about $2.25 a piece for the 30 inch variety. It can be as small as .005, I think that's as thin as they make it. I use .005 on my 1:72 scale subjects.
Yeah, it's a tad expensive. But I love the results. A stock of tungsten, a geometry compass/divider to measure runs, and some CA glue to attach the runs and you're there!
I measure runs with the compass/divider, and place it next to a length of tungsten on my cutting mat and crimp the tungsten with a #17 blade, then cut the wire with wire cutters.
Stainless steel wire is also readily available, but tungsten is not quite as silvery/shiny ~ which is why I prefer to use it versus stainless.

And lastly, thank you everyone for being so complimentary! I am really getting into the paper kits, and this site is a intergral reason why.

Be good and stay well.~ Craig

Cool, thanks for sharing. Sounds like a good idea.

-Ski

 

[Teamski]

The rigging is done with tungsten steel wire, .009 diameter. I figure when trying to simulate wire, what better to use than real wire, right? I buy my wire from www.smallparts.com Tungsten comes in 30 & 60 inch lenghts, to the tune of about $2.25 a piece for the 30 inch variety. It can be as small as .005, I think that's as thin as they make it. I use .005 on my 1:72 scale subjects.
Yeah, it's a tad expensive. But I love the results. A stock of tungsten, a geometry compass/divider to measure runs, and some CA glue to attach the runs and you're there!
I measure runs with the compass/divider, and place it next to a length of tungsten on my cutting mat and crimp the tungsten with a #17 blade, then cut the wire with wire cutters.
Stainless steel wire is also readily available, but tungsten is not quite as silvery/shiny ~ which is why I prefer to use it versus stainless.

And lastly, thank you everyone for being so complimentary! I am really getting into the paper kits, and this site is a intergral reason why.

Be good and stay well.~ Craig

Cool, thanks for sharing. Sounds like a good idea.

-Ski

 

[mellotronage]

hello mellotronage
I am sorry but swiftsword is correct. The red, black and yellow ensign is for post WW2 use on German ships.
Vaterland would have worn the black, white and red German Merchant ensign both before and after WW1.
Please see the following link:
http://www.gwpda.org/naval/s0210000.jpg
However it is easily corrected and in no way detracts from what is a excellent model
VBR
beejay

Thanks to the both of you for pointing this out! Much gratitude.~

 

[mellotronage]

hello mellotronage
I am sorry but swiftsword is correct. The red, black and yellow ensign is for post WW2 use on German ships.
Vaterland would have worn the black, white and red German Merchant ensign both before and after WW1.
Please see the following link:
http://www.gwpda.org/naval/s0210000.jpg
However it is easily corrected and in no way detracts from what is a excellent model
VBR
beejay

Thanks to the both of you for pointing this out! Much gratitude.~