*Finish* Willys Jeep, Modelik Nr. 10/02, 1:25, Special Build

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Mounting the engine hood. Unfortunately the color of the print isn't the same like the painted parts - but it is not so bothered.

fuschsos,

I used to be a drive in the army. Most vehicles would only normally look perfect with their paint scheme the day they rolled off the assembly line. The day after, military vehicles would go through so many various ways of repaint, weathering, dents, etc, that their paint scheme never matched from panel to panel. Something along the lines of an entire piece (i.e. the hood) would seem very normal.

Cheers,
Brad
 
Mounting the engine hood. Unfortunately the color of the print isn't the same like the painted parts - but it is not so bothered.

fuschsos,

I used to be a drive in the army. Most vehicles would only normally look perfect with their paint scheme the day they rolled off the assembly line. The day after, military vehicles would go through so many various ways of repaint, weathering, dents, etc, that their paint scheme never matched from panel to panel. Something along the lines of an entire piece (i.e. the hood) would seem very normal.

Cheers,
Brad
 
J

Jim Nunn

Josef

You should rename this thread from “special build†to “incredible buildâ€

The use of the O-ring to shape the side walls of the tires was inspired. You have made me stop building Modeliks Kübelwagen so that I can incorporate some of your techniques.

Jim Nunn
 
J

Jim Nunn

Josef

You should rename this thread from “special build†to “incredible buildâ€

The use of the O-ring to shape the side walls of the tires was inspired. You have made me stop building Modeliks Kübelwagen so that I can incorporate some of your techniques.

Jim Nunn
 

fuchsjos

Member
Hi, Brad,

This was exact the same, I thought.
By the way, it's not bad, but my forum name is fuchsjos - it is a compilation of my real name Fuchs Josef, where Fuchs is the german word for fox and Josef is the german Josy, Joseph, Joe.

Kindly regards

Josef
 

fuchsjos

Member
Hi, Brad,

This was exact the same, I thought.
By the way, it's not bad, but my forum name is fuchsjos - it is a compilation of my real name Fuchs Josef, where Fuchs is the german word for fox and Josef is the german Josy, Joseph, Joe.

Kindly regards

Josef
 

fuchsjos

Member
Hello Jim!

First of all I have to thank you very much for your comment.

I'm very glad to have also a hint for such a profi like you. If you have any problems to realize the technic, so don't hesitate to ask, it would be a joy for me to help, wherever I can.

Servus

Josef
 

fuchsjos

Member
Hello Jim!

First of all I have to thank you very much for your comment.

I'm very glad to have also a hint for such a profi like you. If you have any problems to realize the technic, so don't hesitate to ask, it would be a joy for me to help, wherever I can.

Servus

Josef
 

fuchsjos

Member
Hi, friends!

By working on my Jeep, I had a problem with holes in diameter of 1,6 mm and was looking for a better solution of hollow punchs. I found a solution by tools, which are using for professional diecutting tools. They have a inside cone. So it is very easy to place them exactly over the printings.

rundlochstanzenbersicht0nv.jpg


By testing them, I have made some pictures:

First picture show the work with a standard hollow punch. I don't use a hammer for this work, but encroach my bench drill as a small sqeezer.

stanzen012tx.jpg


The second hole was made with the new punching tool.

stanzen029px.jpg


The result is self-explanatory.

stanzen033dn.jpg


Both holes should have a diameter of 2,5 mm, but only the new tool made it. The outcutted piece have an interesting form, I used such pieces to make the valves of the tires for the jeep.

Where light is shining, there is also shadow. You have to use much more force for the punching tools with the inside conus, because there is no place for the suppressed material, the only way is to compress it.

For using it in optimal way (mainly for holes with a greater diameter than 5,0 mm), it is necessary to use a gear rack press (1 to) or something else.

I'm now the owner of a complete set of the new punching tools in diameters of 2,0 to 25,0 mm in steps by 0,5 mm. :D

Servus

Josef
 

fuchsjos

Member
Hi, friends!

By working on my Jeep, I had a problem with holes in diameter of 1,6 mm and was looking for a better solution of hollow punchs. I found a solution by tools, which are using for professional diecutting tools. They have a inside cone. So it is very easy to place them exactly over the printings.

rundlochstanzenbersicht0nv.jpg


By testing them, I have made some pictures:

First picture show the work with a standard hollow punch. I don't use a hammer for this work, but encroach my bench drill as a small sqeezer.

stanzen012tx.jpg


The second hole was made with the new punching tool.

stanzen029px.jpg


The result is self-explanatory.

stanzen033dn.jpg


Both holes should have a diameter of 2,5 mm, but only the new tool made it. The outcutted piece have an interesting form, I used such pieces to make the valves of the tires for the jeep.

Where light is shining, there is also shadow. You have to use much more force for the punching tools with the inside conus, because there is no place for the suppressed material, the only way is to compress it.

For using it in optimal way (mainly for holes with a greater diameter than 5,0 mm), it is necessary to use a gear rack press (1 to) or something else.

I'm now the owner of a complete set of the new punching tools in diameters of 2,0 to 25,0 mm in steps by 0,5 mm. :D

Servus

Josef
 

Leif Oh

Member
Brilliant tool. Newcomers and interested in hole punches may want to compare for some earlier discussions on the subject:

+ "Very Good Punch Set available here"
+ "Drill blanks used for punching holes and discs"
+ "Wheel punch"
+ "Pounce Wheel Set"

It has been a popular subject (rightly so), and I have a feeling it may have popped up also in places not immediately identifiable. In any case, your set of punches certainly seems extraordinarily elegant, Josef!

The same principle was employed in a suggestion to buy stock of brass tubing in different diameters and bevel them inside at one end (for making holes), and outside on the other end (for making plugs), or make two sets, which is even better of course. That would constitute a sort of "poor man's" version of your professional set.

The extreme suggested solution for making small holes and/or plugs has been bevelling syringes. I believe that has been used for simulating rivets and like (both recessed and protruding). For pure novelty, I would say few suggestions beat drill blanks (or similar) for punching both holes and plugs.

Leif
 

Leif Oh

Member
Brilliant tool. Newcomers and interested in hole punches may want to compare for some earlier discussions on the subject:

+ "Very Good Punch Set available here"
+ "Drill blanks used for punching holes and discs"
+ "Wheel punch"
+ "Pounce Wheel Set"

It has been a popular subject (rightly so), and I have a feeling it may have popped up also in places not immediately identifiable. In any case, your set of punches certainly seems extraordinarily elegant, Josef!

The same principle was employed in a suggestion to buy stock of brass tubing in different diameters and bevel them inside at one end (for making holes), and outside on the other end (for making plugs), or make two sets, which is even better of course. That would constitute a sort of "poor man's" version of your professional set.

The extreme suggested solution for making small holes and/or plugs has been bevelling syringes. I believe that has been used for simulating rivets and like (both recessed and protruding). For pure novelty, I would say few suggestions beat drill blanks (or similar) for punching both holes and plugs.

Leif
 
fuchsjos said:
Hi, Brad,

This was exact the same, I thought.
By the way, it's not bad, but my forum name is fuchsjos - it is a compilation of my real name Fuchs Josef, where Fuchs is the german word for fox and Josef is the german Josy, Joseph, Joe.

Kindly regards

Josef

fuchsjos,

My apologies, I'll get it right next time.

Cheers,
Brad
 
fuchsjos said:
Hi, Brad,

This was exact the same, I thought.
By the way, it's not bad, but my forum name is fuchsjos - it is a compilation of my real name Fuchs Josef, where Fuchs is the german word for fox and Josef is the german Josy, Joseph, Joe.

Kindly regards

Josef

fuchsjos,

My apologies, I'll get it right next time.

Cheers,
Brad
 

fuchsjos

Member
Report_102

The next step is acting with seats. First cut out some parts.

bild102a5jb.jpg


Next glue together and grind the sitting area of the seats.

bild102b5db.jpg


The result is a nice co-driver seat.

bild102c6ag.jpg
 

fuchsjos

Member
Report_102

The next step is acting with seats. First cut out some parts.

bild102a5jb.jpg


Next glue together and grind the sitting area of the seats.

bild102b5db.jpg


The result is a nice co-driver seat.

bild102c6ag.jpg
 

fuchsjos

Member
Report_104

For the same pattern I build the back seats. Also I mounted some small parts.

bild104a4jq.jpg


With the mounting of the backlights, the electric lighting of the car is complete.

bild104b8la.jpg


Some handholds never could be so wrong. This are only small parts, but very time-consuming.

bild104c3st.jpg


The next report will pause for 2 weeks, because Josef is vacationing. Next sunnday is start. We will test the streets in the south of France with our motorbikes. Here is my best model, in scale 1:1.

stx1200d800x60019hz.jpg
 

fuchsjos

Member
Report_104

For the same pattern I build the back seats. Also I mounted some small parts.

bild104a4jq.jpg


With the mounting of the backlights, the electric lighting of the car is complete.

bild104b8la.jpg


Some handholds never could be so wrong. This are only small parts, but very time-consuming.

bild104c3st.jpg


The next report will pause for 2 weeks, because Josef is vacationing. Next sunnday is start. We will test the streets in the south of France with our motorbikes. Here is my best model, in scale 1:1.

stx1200d800x60019hz.jpg
 
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