*Finish* Willys Jeep, Modelik Nr. 10/02, 1:25, Special Build

Discussion in 'Armory & Military' started by fuchsjos, Jun 13, 2005.

  1. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member


    After I have finished the howitzer sIG-33, I choose the Willys Jeep for my next project. This time I want to use more parts of paper. First I read the 4 pages of instructions (drawings) very intently and found some things, looking strange to me. I took a ruler and made some measurements - found some errors. Since there are not 3D-drawings, it is very hard and nearly impossible to find the correct position of every part. In the course of the report I will point at all founded errors.
    The printing of the kit is quite good, perhaps a little too dark.
    The errors and difficulties to locate the right position of some parts, caused me to draw some parts in my 3D-Programm. This way makes it easy to find the right position of the parts and to check the dimensions also.
    The chassis I will make with etched parts. So the stability would be very good and I can use real rivets for detailing.

    Part 3 is too short about 1,5 mm.
    Part 3e is unknown for the right position and mounting.
    Parts 8k and 7r have wrong dimensions, if you want to set the clamp wz9 into the holes.
    Parts 7l, 7k, 8k and 7r have also some troubles with the clamp wz9.

    Mistakes correced.
    Hook 51 and 51a more detailing, now it is possible to make it open and close.

    The construction of step (Rys.) 01 - 07 in 3D was ready and looks in this way:



    Step (Rys.) 08 and 09 show the correct decision to make a 3D construction before building the real model. There were many mistakes, but step by step.
    The frustum (part 10g, resp. 11g) have to impose on the axles 10 (resp. 11) and the other side is closing with corresponding parts. But the holes in the frustum for the axles have the wrong position, they are too near to the small end. For a solution I make a new construction of the part and post the pdf for downloading. Also I have changed the rips to get a better adaptation to the differential gear.



    The next big problems are at the steering linkage at step 8 (Rys. 8 ). The mounting drawings show the part 13b with a height of 1 mm. In reality this part is a paperroll with a hight of 2 mm. How to connect these parts (13b) with the parts 13c and 13a, you don't get any information by the drawings. Also there is changed the numbering of part 13cL (left) and 13cP (right). After doing some try and error, I think I have found a solution. Forget the both nearby white circles and use two time part 13b for them. In my drawing I have named all changed parts.



    In Step 9 (Rys. 9) are the same troubles, but no more, excepting the position (alignment) of parts 14P and part 14L. This was a question of intuition.



    The virtual mounting of the several steps was easy. The result looks more like a real chassis.

  2. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member


    As I want to use more paperparts for this project, it needs some time and many parts to get a full film (250Ã-150 mm) and to produce a sheet of etching parts. So I have to collect some more parts and in the meantime I work on the compound springs and the motor, which are made 100% of the original paperparts. For experimental reason I used two different ways to make the front and back springs. The front springs are compound curved and I soak them with CA-glue. The back springs are straight and I soak them with clear color (metal primer).



    Both methodes offer the wanted result. Paper becomes more strongness and I could grind them with fine grindpaper, without getting filaments in the paper. The colored springs stay elastic, where the CA-glued springs becomes very hard and strong. Both technics are useable and I will use them in the future, depending on the wanted result.



    After finishing the mounting of the compound springs, I use primer, grind a last time, color the parts with tamiya 'Metal grey', make a washing with watercolor and finally I make a drybrushing with grey watercolor. The pattern on page 5 is used for the rounding of the front spring.

  3. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member


    I want to show you my way to make a paper-roll. My way is very easy to use and it is also useable by persons with few experience in modeling. The bigest problem to make a little roll is the start of it. For this reason I use a little strip of silkpaper (wrapping paper)and glue it to the outer side (printed side) of the paperpart. This art of paper (also used to wrap flowers) is very thin, but strong.



    For glueing I have made a special mixture of glue. Wicoll (PMA glue) mixed with much water (30-40%); you could also colored it by using of watercolor. By the use of strong dilution that gluing dry very fast and you can work without waiting.



    Now it is time for my special tool - a piece of steel wire with a diameter of 0,5 mm in a holder. Put some glue onto the strip of silkpaper ( 3-4 mm) and wrapping it around the wire until you come to the step to the thicker paper. Apply some more glue (3-4 mm) to this part and roll again, pulling the normal paper with the silkpaper over the step. So you get a perfect start for the roll.



    Push the roll during the whole process to the table with the fingers and roll on. If you have to change the finger position, hold down the roll with the other hand by using the steel wire. So the roll has no chance to unbend. The last 5 mm becomes some more glue. PMA glue is not glueing on metal very well, so just turn the steel wire in the other direction to get it free. I use glue only at the start and the end of a roll, so I can correct eventually displacements with some pressure by an even thing (I use the flat end of a steel tweezers) onto the table. After this correcting I fix the roll by sealing it with glue.



    Here you can see the ready roll. I sealed only one end, because I need the whole of the steel wire for a further step.

  4. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member


    In the meantime I have start with the motor. Whithout a parallel 3D construction in the computer I would capitulate with this project. The mounting drawings of the motor are very confusing and it was complex to figure out the positon and use of the parts. In addition there are some missing numbers in the drawing or as part itself. Best is, to work step by step, using the original numbering system of the kit. The mainblock of the motor needs the parts 15 - 15z.
    I don't find the use of part 15y (probably it's the cap of the roll 15w - I colored all parts, so I don't need it). The parts 15q, 15v and 15x are missing as parts and I also don't find a pointer in the drawings.



    All parts would be colored, so I was able to grind them. After this I use a very thinned (with water) PMA glue to make a complete coating and simulate the roundings of a cast part.



    All viewable screws were made by little pieces of bristol cardboard (diameter 0,5 mm, thickness 0,5 mm), punched by a tool. To prevent crippling of the cardboard I prepare it with CA glue.



    The mainblock get a lot of little pats, I would mount them after finish coloring. Here you see our little roll of a little while ago, becomes another little roll and transform to a spark coil. Such little rolls are necessary to do 9 pieces more (Juhuu!). Below is the lower part of the distributor (another paper roll with a cap). The ignition cable was made of tin-solder with a diameter of 0,35 mm - in the spark coil is a piece of it, glued with CA-glue.

  5. Leif Oh

    Leif Oh Member

    I take my hat off, Joseph! Already a number of useful tips, not least the simple beauty of the silk paper-started roll! I envy you your proficiency with 3D-programmes. Alas, I fear that is beyond me, but I will continue admiring your proficiency, and others!

    Many, many thanks for this and more to come, hopefully!

  6. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member


    Also ready are the differential gears for the front- and back- axle. All paper made, only the inner of the axle is a brass tube with a diameter of 2 mm.



    The new constructed parts 10g and 11g offer good fitting accuracy, while the original parts produces a 2 mm gap (I have try the original part - error - free flight to the bin).

  7. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

    Hello Leif!

    Thank you for your attention to my work. The proficiency with 3D programs is an easy step for me, because I'm working as a designing engineer every day with this programs.

  8. Gil

    Gil Active Member


    Beautiful work! Looking forward to more on this thread.

    Warmest regards, Gil
  9. dwgannon

    dwgannon Member

    Outstanding work. I agree that you have shown me a new way to roll paper. Thank you. This will be a big help in up coming projects.
  10. J.L.

    J.L. Member

    Hello Josef,
    This is very fine, precise work. Well done! Nicely presented and photographed.
  11. Jim Nunn

    Jim Nunn Member

    If you have not seen Josef’s sIG 33 model he has an article on his build at http://www.cardmodelers.org/online/

    Josef, I am looking forward to watching you build this model, Its always fun to look over the shoulder of a master modeler.

    Jim Nunn
  12. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

    Howdy, friends!

    Thank you very much for the tribute to my work. I love it, to share the results of my modeling sessions with allied peoples. Looking every day for better solutions for problems in modeling, I also relish the possibility to refer the community about my experiences.

    Jim Nunn,
    Your really excellent work in the reports about the Panther and the Puma on http://www.cardmodelers.org/online/ was the reason for my efforts to write about my projects also in english, although it is very hard for me, to write in this language.

    Kindly regards
  13. silverw

    silverw Member

    Great stuff Josef......

    You could do a whole 'tutorial" on that engine.... or those diferential housings!!

    Hope you don't mind...... but, I plan on stealing your methods!!! :oops: :oops: :oops: :roll: :twisted:
  14. Bernie

    Bernie Member

    Josef, absolutly great work - very realistic. Waiting for your performance of wheels and seats /used/

    Good luck

    /in meantime watching also your Jeep on Kartonbau - forum/
  15. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

    Hello Silverw!

    Thank you for the compliments!

    What do you think, where I got this skills? Learning by doing and looking at the masters of modeling (also stealing their methodes!) :twisted:

  16. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member

    Hello Bernie!

    Thank you for your attention. The report in 'Kartonbau' is more up to date, but I'm working very hard on translation to english, so I hope this afternoon both forums would be at the same release date.

    Kindly regards
  17. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member


    The motor is ready colored and the ignition system is build in.



    The contributor was colored in brown, as I remember I've seen this color by old cars. The spark plug jack was made new as angular connector. Two paperrolls glued together and smoothen with thinned Wicoll (PMA glue), finally colored with semigloss black Tamiya color.



    The ignition cables are still angular, but after mounting of all accessories I will round off. Tin-solder is very patient for such a procedur.

  18. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member


    For the air filter/carburetor/exhaust manifold I also used mainly the original paperparts. Only the bellows was made of wounded tin-solder and the exhaust manifold was made of styrene microstripes (evergreen).



    For the color of the exhaust manifold I have try to create a rusty effect. The air filter was airbrushed in olive green; it's purely a matter of taste.



    In the mounting drawing of step (Rys.) 10 is a false numbering 18 for the air filter - the right numbering is 17h.



    For reason, that the whole block is only connecting with the motorblock by the exhaust manifold wz. 15 and the holder 17l, it's a rather astable case. Additional I determined, that I couldn't mount it in this way, because there was a conflict with the spark plug jacks. So I had to mount the parts a little higher and dissolve the problem by an extension of holder 17l and a round piece of cardboard between 17f and 17c. I 'love' such surprises when I'm glueing parts together.

  19. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member


    For the pulleys I made some extra parts and supplement the leadings for the pulleys. All discs and the alternator were made of paper. Only the axles are pins. The fan belt is a piece of paper, which was glued on joint, finally stronged with a little piece of silkpaper. The fan was not doubled like the instructions say because it would be too thick; only the middle cross of the fan was doubled.



    The fan belt was not glued with the pulleys. I wet it with few water and put it to the upper and lower disc. Then I took the alternator and bended the belt very carefully as long as the humidity was gone. So the belt held the right form. Coloring of the belt was done with black watercolor, which dries very dull.



    The oil filter got an extra oil guidance. The oil filler got a red cover (only coloring).



    In my opinion the metallic color of the pulleys is very realistic - I have done it by airbrushing with Alcad II - colors. This colors, you only could handle with airbrush, are very expensive, but the result is really first-class. Also I have done an extra oil drain bolt (shi.., I forgot the seal disk - now I cannot fill in oil, because the engine isn't leakproof).

  20. fuchsjos

    fuchsjos Member


    The cooler also is made with the original paperparts. The coating on the inside of the front opening should made by thin paper - I haven't made it, because I use paint for the coloring and without the coating the material would looking thinner, more like real sheet.



    First I wanted to use a very fine metal grating, but finally I tried something new. The printing of the cooler grating looks not very good. So I applied a thick layer of Tamiya Acrylic color 'Smoke' with a brush. After I have waited until the color was semi dried, I scratched a gratingly structur in the color using a brush of brass. The result of this procedure was surprisingly and looks quite good.



    The cooler closure was colored again with Alcad II - but this time I only dip the closure into the color and remove the waste color with a soft tissue - also working.
    In the mounting drawing step (Rys.) 11 is another mistake. The cooler resides on the parts 2, 2a, 2b ..., which are part of the main chassis. For this reason the cooler has a corner on the lower side. In the drawing this is unaccounted for the left view. Part 20a show the correct way to mount the cooler.


Share This Page