Finally!My DM&IR Yellowstone has arrived!

Discussion in 'Getting Started' started by CRed, Jan 9, 2008.

  1. doctorwayne

    doctorwayne Active Member

    It looks as if you've found the reason that it doesn't run. :thumb: It's probably a good thing that I wasn't here to answer your post of 9:56, as I would've told you that the reason that the gears were turning freely was because the gear boxes had dropped slightly when you removed the bottom covers. If the screws were long enough to reach when you had put the covers back in place, tightening them would've drawn the gearboxes back into their proper positions. This worked out even better, though, as that piece of tubing appears to be the culprit. The best choice to replace it is model airplane fuel line - get a foot or so of it and cut a piece to fit. You'll want tubing that's a tight fit on the shafts, and flexible too. On the shaft between the two gearboxes, ensure that the screws that hold the female parts of the universal joints in place are tight. While you've got it apart, open up those gear boxes and check the lubricant. If it's hardened or not present, note which way everything fits together, then disassemble it and clean the gears and inside of the cases. A toothbrush and some mineral spirits will work or the brush and some dish detergent and warm water. Do one gearbox at a time, and dry the parts thoroughly before re-assembly. Lube the gear teeth and the shafts on which they turn, and the worms and their bearings. NWSL recommends LaBelle #102 Gear Oil for this purpose. I was surprised to see in your earlier picture that the driver gears appear to be steel, as the best practice is to have the driven gear of a softer material than the drive gear. However, the gearboxes clearly contain an idler gear, which is undoubtedly brass, while the worm will be, correctly, steel. This means that the gear made from the softest material, the brass idler, is the most likely to wear out first, but also the easiest to replace - good engineering. :thumb:
    As I indicated earlier, apply just a tiny drop of oil where the shafts enter the motor, too, preferably at both ends.
    While you've got the engines free from the drive train, place each on a sheet of glass and see how well they'll roll when given a light push. The rear one may bind, as the piston and main rod don't have the cylinder to keep things properly aligned. If you haven't already done so, apply a drop of oil on the inside face of the driver bearings, right at the point where the axle passes through: a couple turns of the wheels will draw it in to where it will do some good. This is easiest to do from above, as can be seen in your photo of the rear engine, but it is also possible to do from below if the loco is not disassembled. I mention this only to remind you that you'll need to do this periodically - just a drop is sufficient.
    There are many causes of binds in the siderods and valve gear, and often the best way to discover them is to run the loco slowly, upside down, on the bench while observing carefully. Common problem areas are the rear face of a siderod contacting the front face of another, or contacting protruding driver counterweights. These cases usually make an audible "click" as the parts come in contact. The solution to this type of bind is spacer washers installed to increase the clearance between moving parts. If the valve gear binds in this manner, the easiest cure is to gently bend the offending parts to remove the interference. I normally oil all of the bearing surfaces of the valve gear and siderods after painting: oiling before will allow a small amount of oil to spread over areas that are to be painted, resulting in poor paint adhesion. Depending on the preference of the painter, he'll likely clean all of this area before painting, anyway: I generally disassemble the loco as much as necessary for painting, remove the motor, then throw the whole shebang into a sinkful of hot, soapy water (which means everything will need to be re-lubed anyway). :eek:
    At least you've discovered the major reason for the loco not running and found that it's a cheap and easy fix: an unscrupulous painter could've charged you for a much more complicated and expensive (but unnecessary) repair. Plus, you've gained some valuable experience and useful knowledge just by having the courage to take screwdriver in hand to "have a look". My compliments to you, Chris, for doing so.

  2. CRed

    CRed Member

    Thank you for the compliment Wayne,but without the great PM you sent that made it sound so uncomplicated I wouldn't have had the courage to do what I did to an not easily replaced and very expensive engine.I took it apart in steps and put the parts from each step in their own seperate baggies to keep everything in order,now all I have to do is go in reverse order and put it back together.I didn't even lose anything!The hardest part will be trying to get the rods from the rear engine back into the cylinders that go between the two engines.You are correct about the gears,the drive gears are steel and the idle gears are brass.

    Not only did I find the main culprit for the bad running ability of the engine,but I found other things also that contributed to the problem.For one,the grease in the front engine was the consistency of dried pitch and was just yucky.Another problem I came across was that the pilot was out of alignment causing the rods to rub against each other and bind up once in a while.I aligned the pilot correctly,tightened it down and guess what?No more problem.I will go to my LHS for some of that tubing and he might even have some of that Labelles stuff too.

    All in all it's been a pretty cool experience so far,not that I will want to do it again anytime soon,but as you said I have learned a lot by doing it.Thanks again for the tremendous help,it is greatly appreciated!

  3. jbaakko

    jbaakko Active Member

    Man that is one SWEET engine! Very nice Chris!
  4. CRed

    CRed Member

    Thanks Josh!I really think it's the best engine I could ever want or need.

    I was finally able to get the two engines together,but what a pain in the bum it was getting the side rods to go back into the cylinder.I NEVER want to have to do that again!

  5. CRed

    CRed Member

    Great!Just great!After all that work to get the side rods into place the weld on the part that connects the two engines came apart...


    I'll be able to epoxy or glue it back on,but now I have to get the rods back into the cylinders:(.Any suggestions on what to use for that?

  6. Russ Bellinis

    Russ Bellinis Active Member

    Don't use epoxy or glue, solder the part back together. If you try to epoxy or glue it, it will not hold. That hinge is a highly stressed part of the locomotive. Get a small wire brush with either steel or brass bristles. You should be able to find them in the "tool crib" at Home Depot or Lowes. Brush the plate and the frame rails where it mounts until both are shiney. Put a little paste flux on or use rosin core solder, and using a soldering iron heat the frame rails until the solder flows to give an even coating on top of the rails. Do the same thing on both sides of the plate. Use tweezers to place the plate in position, and apply heat to the top of the plate with your soldering iron until the solder on the rails and the plate melts to fuse the 2 pieces together. Let it cool and you are done. My friend, who used to do custom painting before he went to work as quality control supervisor for Athearn, used to plan to resolder almost everything on brass locomotives before painting. He found most had cold solder joints; and typically when he opened the box, he would find details laying in the foam under the model that had fallen off.
  7. CRed

    CRed Member

    It's going to be re-soldered just not by me,a friend is doing it for me because I've never soldered before and I'm not about to learn on this engine.I have heard about that also,but I found no details floating around the box on mine so that's good.

    Thanks for the suggestion Russ!

  8. GN.2-6-8-0

    GN.2-6-8-0 Member

    Tell you what' though i love my Akane it looks almost primitive compared to the Westside detail wise.
    Not the best shot but the only one i have here at work but you'll love the 2nd shot....heh'heh

    Attached Files:

  9. CRed

    CRed Member

    I wouldn't be ashamed of that Akane,I think it looks great!I may actually be getting an Akane also,I don't think two Yellowstones is too many,huh?

    I like that second shot,Proctor Yard right?The bridge isn't around anymore I don't think,but it's been awhile since I've been up there.

  10. GN.2-6-8-0

    GN.2-6-8-0 Member

    A'yep...All things must come to an end i guess....Oh' i'm not ashamed of my Akane it runs like a swiss watch and will pull just about anything i hang on her tender'....just wish it had a Vestibule like the westside.
    One day soon i plan on installing a Tsunami heavy steam decoder in it ...maybe after i retire.
    For Xmas got the DVD of those Yellowstones working around Proctor in the mid -late 50s' Only thing wrong was it was only about 30 mins. long but what a show they put on.:twisted:
  11. Kevinkrey

    Kevinkrey Member

    Yes chris, to my knowledge, that bridge is long gone, but dont they still have one somewhere that gives a good overhead shot (or nearby atleast) to the yard?

    I cant wait to see that loco in DMIR paint!

    GN 2-6-8-0, that is one B-E-A-U-tiful locomotive, probably quite the attention grabber. I noticed the other day that in the front timeline in my walthers 07 catalog (HO) they mention the DMIR recieving their first baldwin M3.
  12. Goattee

    Goattee Member

    CRed, I have more of shots of the 229 if you need them.
  13. Goattee

    Goattee Member

    Well the Picture didn't work.
    I'll try again.

    Attached Files:

    • 229.jpg
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  14. GN.2-6-8-0

    GN.2-6-8-0 Member

    Yep' she's a pruty one! heres a better picture of her taking a spin on the turntable on our club layout.

    Attached Files:

  15. Kevinkrey

    Kevinkrey Member

    Do ya have a nice string of ore cars for her to lug around?
  16. CRed

    CRed Member

    As Kevin says,it's a beauty!I actually just bought an Akane Yellowstone,lets just hope it's still in stock!

    Goattee-Post 'em if you got 'em,nothing wrong with pictures of the real thing.Have you actually been to Two Harbors?

  17. N Gauger

    N Gauger 1:20.3 Train Addict

    Yeah - POST some Pics!!!!! :D :D :D Remember guys - If you search for Duluth MN in Google maps... you can view the entire railroad ... :)

    ... using Billions of dollars worth of government equipment for railfanning... What a country!!!!!!!!!!!!
  18. GN.2-6-8-0

    GN.2-6-8-0 Member

    Kevinkrey,yep about 20 of'em....guess I'll need a bunch more huh!

    Oh' and heres the rest of the pictures i was able to find on the net.

    Attached Files:

  19. CRed

    CRed Member

  20. Kevinkrey

    Kevinkrey Member

    I love that site, I plan on joining the MRHS soon. I am more of a diesel person, but those are some nice steamers! I really like those 2-8-0s. Someday I would like to have one of every steam and diesel loco the D&IR, DM&N, and DM&IR ever owned along with an ore car correct for the time period to accompany it, I think I can smell some scratchbuilding ahead, that can mean:mrgreen:eek:rwall1. But only time will tell.

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