Federation Frigate NCC 150 Okinawa

Discussion in 'Science Fiction & Fantasy' started by stackw, Jul 3, 2008.

  1. stackw

    stackw Highly Dangerous Mind...

    Gentleman! Ladies! (is there any?) Children! Aliens!

    I'm prod to post, show and put to download my very first (and, in consequence, full of mistakes) pepakura model, The Okinawa Class Frigate, from the game Starfleet Command II.

    Pictures of the assembly follows:







    ***Removed the model for further improvements. this weekend it'll be back.***

    Hope you enjoy.

    (Can be cruel in your criticism. I can handle it to grow as a developer)

  2. D-WHALE

    D-WHALE Utopia Planitia Engineer

    Honest opinion? ->:cry:
    you need some help to work with the Pepakura Designer (and may be with Metaseq)

    but: never give up!!!
  3. stackw

    stackw Highly Dangerous Mind...


    The lines? textures? the size?
  4. Gomidefilho

    Gomidefilho Member

    For first time is very good model:twisted: Unusual subject, but offer choice of versions: lines, no lines, and made modulations for sustentation ;)!


  5. D-WHALE

    D-WHALE Utopia Planitia Engineer

    yes, yes and yes!
    Lines: don´t make the lines with ...... and with -----!!! take the solid lines for the flaps and for hard edges and erase the rest!
    texture: you can´t anything for the texture, but it is bad!
    size: SMALL! may be 1:2000? I see no scale!

    but the worst are the flaps!!! look the hull parts!!! they are not alike! maybe you know what I mean!?
  6. stackw

    stackw Highly Dangerous Mind...

    I Say "Yes yes and Yes!" :D
    I'll Try to "explain" what you see, it's not an apologize, but and explanation:
    (some things have a really idiot one, you'll see)

    Well.... As it was my first one, I have left the lines as a guidance for the "newcomers" for the hobby... I started at papermodelling asssembling the Homeworld Hammerhead Corvette, from Erick's models, if that had no lines I would be trying to assemble it till present day. But I admit, the "Lined" version is quite ugly. I must confess, I'd never intended to make a no-line version but.... now that you mentioned, I managed to find the menu to do this in pepakura!

    That's one point I really need some advice. What is a good texture? Why there's nothing I can do about?
    I am asking because I work everyday in Photoshop, and I'm used to set my images to 300 dpi resolution, CMYK scale, BUT, In the hurry to make this (it was made in less than 3 hours, first version--this is the second-- to show my wife how cool pepakura is) I used the textures from the game folder (ok, I'm stupid in doing this) but, if there something that can be done to make these textures better (or make some new textures), I'll surely redouble my efforts in discovering and doing it.

    When I was making this, I tryied to search some data about the ship, to adjust it to te proper scale. Based in the data found in some wiki, this ship is supposed to be at 1:1000 scale. I say supposed just because no matter how much Gomide's tryied to explain that to me, I must confess that I cannot understand very well about how scalate the model in pepakura.
    Note that I've never mentioned nothing about Metasequoia, I just used it to convert the .ms3d / .shp (Milkshape or the game format?) format to something like 3ds or lwo (i really can't remember, sorry). The fact is, there was NO editing. Okay, you can throw you shos on me now, I swear i won't scream :D

    Now that you're talking... damn...

    Lemme see if I got the point:


    • point 1: Red rectangle, upper right, upper front hull (just behind the saucer):
      Nice flaps (already no-lines, noticed?), nice fit. Maybe just a little too big for the model.
    • point 2: Red rectangle, upper left, Impulse engines:
      I admit. the flaps are announce1 HUMONGOUS!!!!!!! When I started designing this, just looking at the game, I'd never noticed that those creeps had some volume. mea culpa, mea maxima culpa
    • point 3, lower left, lower hull:
      okay, tha fla #8.147 attaches to the hull at the opposite point of the flap number..... wait! what opposite flap?!?!
    • point 4, just near left point three:
      Damn! the flap juxtaposed the other flap!

    But there's more, for example: in the lower saucer section, that "sub-bridge" has a crossy thing (img) that is a sort of curved section of the hull, as in tha Martin Sanger's Constellation, e.g. Thete is some way I can make this part dettached from the hull, with some volume, making some justice to the "real" ship?
    "Metasequoia" I presume you'll say.

    I have no intention of making nice, incredible models as a big part of you in the first moment (of course), but at the same time i hae no intention of giving up, so... thanks for the coments (and your sincerity, I would never expect less from any of you) an be prepared, because I'll still buging you with doubts, tests, betas and more and more things...


  7. FlareBaffled

    FlareBaffled Member

    If you are not a 3D modeller, and don't have any contacts who are... then you will be pretty much stuck with the mesh you have. This will limit some of hte design choices you have when it comes to the work in Pepakura.

    In order to make that cross bit more 3D, you would have to change the 3D mesh and unfold again. Otherwise, you could print out the page again and cut out that piece to layer it up some. As far as I know, there is no way to duplicate a particular part in Pepakura.

    What you CAN do is to convert the pepakura output to a bitmap, and then work on it in a paint program. Then you can copy the cross bit, and paste it on...and with abit of a clean up, you have a part that can be glued on to layer it up. More complex work would require modelling changes.

    As far as a scale goes, when you unfold...DO NOT choose automatic unfold. Remove the tick in that checkbox before you hit the unfold button. Then, when you unfold manually, you can set a physical size for the finished result. If you want a ship to a precise scale, first work out it's original length in 'reality'. Say...500m.

    Next, work out what the scale size would be. If the ship was 1:1000 then a scale ship model for that vessel would be 0.5m. Adjust the manual scaling factor in the unfold menu to a length of 0.5m and hit the unfold button.

    I had scaling issues sorting out myu Warhammer models, and ultimately had to measure the real thing and make my model that length. Once I did, I kept a note of hte scaling factor, and just pasted it in for each. Then they are all to scale. If you do more Trek ships from the same source, the same scaling factor should apply to each.
  8. stackw

    stackw Highly Dangerous Mind...

    The late-night conversation with Md. D-W was really cool...
    It has thrown some ligtt above some limitations I have, and put to think about it. (Not to tell that after the messages I was talking to my dad in english, and he speaks portuguese, but, little details...)

    Good morning gentlemen!

    Indeed, I don't know if just my impression or my habit in working on PS and CDR (lots of menus, keyboard shorts and tools), but I found Pepakura a little bit simple.... Some of the 'errors' on the model has already fixed after last night conversation, as the flaps problem and the most important, the scale!
    The ship was set to be 1.3cm tall (1/1500), when the ExAstrisScientia says it is 193m (real) in height i put it to 1.9cm, to adjust it to some standard.
    Nothing that a little re-sacling in pepakura couldn't fix.

    The newer version has two pages, I'll post it for your evaluation on my lunch time.

    What really concerns me about modelling is just the 3D. I'd never worked on it, and never felt the need to learn to work on 3dStudio. Metasequoia is a little diffrente, has that "open source software" face, but looks quite powerfull. My problem is, in truth, the fact that I already work with measures, scales,colors and that stuff, but.... in TWO dimensions. I'm looking forward to lear n ow to make the third one come in hand.

    Ok, that come to me, but I'm trying to put the cross into the pepakura. IF I can work on bitmaps, I can surely reedit it and import the isolated cross to the pepakura's stage.

    NOW we are talking!

    I was seeing some Starbase thread last night, and i realized (ok, I haven't realize HOW I do it, but it's possible) that Mqo accets something I'm used doing in Corel: TRACING! I have to learn how to import the part in Meta, trace it, re-texture and put it togeter with the model again. I'm starting to see as far as I never imagined I could take my modelling skills.

    Auto-Unfold sucks...... Yet I have some kind of problem when i think I'm annoying the person besides me, Péricles has told me to not check that thing, he gave me some important information about pepakura, how do I started using it and some little things more. Unfortunately, I started thinking that I was bugging he a lot, and left the guy go out to get some beer for him...

    Trouble here... I'll continue later, but thanks for your precious advices!!
  9. D-WHALE

    D-WHALE Utopia Planitia Engineer

    WOW! that was much to read (and to translate)!
    i will help you tonight with some pics!:cool:

    BTW: the registration of that ship is WRONG! NCC-150 is the USS Daedalus, not the Okinawa!

  10. stackw

    stackw Highly Dangerous Mind...

    Thanks, D-W!(or should I call you Mr. Sanger? lol) I'll be looking forward for this.
    Unforntunately my german sucks..... I'll try to write a little less next time, ok?

    I've confirmed. Okinawa Class Frigate NCC 150 Okinawa is right, BUT, that register is non-canon, it is valid only in the games...
    Daedalus is a Olympic class, isn't it? that cigar with a ping pong ball as a bridge?
  11. archer6970

    archer6970 New Member

    Hey! link is not working! Can you do something? I´m very interested in your model
  12. stackw

    stackw Highly Dangerous Mind...

    In fact, it is and is not working...

    Telefonica has a bigger part of he link market in Brazil, and they are experiencing some "technical difficults" since yesterday, 23h (-3gmt)

    By the way, alternate 1/1500:http://www.spacedock.com.br/okinawa.rar
    1/1500 version, w/ lines and ALL the "problems" discussed here. not recommended for begginers or people without patience.

    THE NEWER VERSION 1/1000: http://www.spacedock.com.br/NCC_150_OKINAWA_Cardmodels_net 1_1000.pdo
    1/100 version, NO LINES (none!) and semi-corrected. beta builld running now @ home, model not yet tested.

    Man... in two weeks this thread will be a seriuous mess....
  13. archer6970

    archer6970 New Member

    Telefonica? You said telefonica? That explain a lot of things..... I´m from Spain, and i understand you....

    By the way, the model is very nice. I just printed it, and i think that you are doing a good job, considering that is your first try. Keep it up!
  14. D-WHALE

    D-WHALE Utopia Planitia Engineer

    at first: no, I´m sorry! I´m not Martin Saenger:mrgreen:, but he is also a member here! and he use Rhino for his models!

    okay, here is a short tutorial for Pepakura (lines and flaps) and for Corel Photopaint (i use version X3, but older versions has the same)!
    (Please: if you have some questions, wait!!!)

    1. i did not say, that you erase ALL the lines:cry:
    2. Pic1 show a example of your model!
    3. pic2: make the right and the left side of the hull together for symmetry and turn some parts for a good symmetry!
    4. pic3: go to "Configuration" -> "Line Style Configuration" and make the point at "solid" and then OK
    5. pic4: thats the result
    6. Pic5: now erase the lines, where "smooth" foldings are!
    7. pic6: now make the flaps symmetrically

    Attached Files:

  15. D-WHALE

    D-WHALE Utopia Planitia Engineer

    to the Flaps:
    you can also color the flaps (pic7), but i dont do that -> Sometime you do not know no more, where you must stick!:cry:
    Pic8: the result!

    Pic9: convert to a BMP-File! important: dont choose the option "Single BMP File"!
    Pic 10: change the %-size to minimum 500%! that 360 dpi! (500% * 72dpi= 360 dpi)! that is a good choice for changes in Photoshop or Photopaint!

    Attached Files:

  16. D-WHALE

    D-WHALE Utopia Planitia Engineer

    now to Corel Photopaint!
    1.load the BMP-file
    2. go to "Image" -> "resample" (pic 11)
    3. Pic12: now you can see, how big the bitmap is!
    4. pic 13: cange the option "millimeters" in to "Pixel" and
    5. pic14: change the resolution to 360dpi and correct the "image size" ->OK

    Attached Files:

  17. D-WHALE

    D-WHALE Utopia Planitia Engineer

    nothing happens?:confused:
    hmm! go to "File" -> "Print Preview" (pic 15) and see what happend:mrgreen: (pic16 befor and pic17 after)

    Attached Files:

  18. stackw

    stackw Highly Dangerous Mind...

    .......Das nenne ich eine Lehre!......

    Closing the office now....
    as soon as I get home, take the cat, feed a shower, take the sink to walk and wash the dog I'll be back.

    and duh... Sorry, I meant Mr. Marko... I assembled Mr. Saender yesterday, and printed your Galor to assemble today...
  19. D-WHALE

    D-WHALE Utopia Planitia Engineer

    and now to the problem with the resolution of the texture with the mesh bitmaps! (thats the Bloodwing from shiftel! he send me the original mesh bitmaps!)

    have you the Bitmap files of the okinawa? if yes -> good!!!
    load the file in Photopaint and change the size from 100% to 300%, but NOT the resolution!!! save it and now go to Pepakura! load the "new" texture files! now the lines are smoother! that it!!!


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  20. D-WHALE

    D-WHALE Utopia Planitia Engineer

    :mrgreen:the galor was my first models! there are also some errors! but there was not the Pepakura designer V.2 at that time, version 1 onlywall1! the Vorcha-class is much better:twisted: And the new VORCHA and GALOR/KELDON is jawdrop

    Attached Files:

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