F813 Witte de With

Discussion in 'Ship & Watercraft Models' started by Longbow, Nov 30, 2015.

  1. Longbow

    Longbow New Member

    F813 Witte de With
    In the early 1970s, the Koninklijke Marine (Royal Netherlands Navy) developed what became known as the 'Standard' frigate, with anti-submarine and anti-aircraft versions using common hull designs and machinery and as far as practicable, common electronics and sensors.
    It was planned to order 12 anti-submarine variants (the Kortenaer class, enough to equip two task groups (each led by a Tromp-class guided missile frigate) to operate in the Atlantic, while a single anti-aircraft version would act as flagship for a third task group, consisting of the older Van Speijk-class frigates to operate in the English Channel and North Sea.
    In 1981, however, two Kortenaers were sold to Greece while building, and it was decided to build two anti-aircraft versions of the 'Standard' class (the 'L' class) as replacements, with the planned 13th 'Standard'-class frigate being abandoned.

    The design is the same as used in the Kortenaer class

    A Mk 13 missile launcher for the American Standard SM-1 medium-range surface-to-air missile (SAM) (with a 40-missile magazine) replaced the helicopter hangar and deck of the Kortenaers. This was supplemented by an eight round Mk 29 NATO Sea Sparrow short range SAM launcher forward, with 24 missiles carried.
    A Goalkeeper close-in weapon system was mounted aft, while the forward-mounted OTO Melara 76 mm gun of the Kortenaers was omitted. Launchers for eight Harpoon anti-ship missiles were positioned amidships, while anti-submarine armament consisted of four tubes for Mark 46 torpedos.

    As built, the ships were fitted with a Signaal LW-08 long-range air search radar, a DA-05 target tracking radar. Two STIR-240 director radars provided guidance for the Standard missiles, while a STIR-180 radar directed the Sea Sparrow missiles. A PHS-36 hull sonar was also fitted.

    The GPM model of the Witte de With was created in 2013, clearly using CAD.

    Attached Files:

    DanBKing likes this.
  2. Longbow

    Longbow New Member

    I never built a full hull ship. I was (and still am) afraid othe the underwater hull part because of the various seams that (in my eyes) don't look too well.

    But, try everyting once, so I gave it a go.

    Being lazy, I bought the lasercut parts.
    I started with a selecting a straight wooden base to build the underwater hull on. The picture shows the baseplate for the Prince of Wales I built earlier, so you can see the difference in size.

    Building the formers presented no problem at all. I strengthened to seams where I thought it would be necessary.
    Put the deck in place and started with the sides.

    Next episode: the underwater parts, that gave me no end of problems..

    Attached Files:

  3. Longbow

    Longbow New Member

    I applied the hull sides and plating.
    I am not very happy with it, and honestly do not know how to tackle the problem in order to smoothen in out. I've been thinking of sanding the dome (and other seams) and filling them using some putty. After this I could paint/spray the black belt and the underside.

    Attached Files:

  4. Longbow

    Longbow New Member

    As the outer has been assembled, and I did not want to start anew I have decided to sand the seams and the dome.
    Then I will apply some putty to the bowdome to create a better bulb shape.
    And sand again, and reapply putty, and sand again. You get the picture.

    When this does not work, I have to restart, and fill the hullshape before applying the plating.

    Here some pictures of the sanding. Will keep you posted !

    Attached Files:

  5. Longbow

    Longbow New Member

    I'm sorry to say that disaster struck.
    I sanded the hull, put on a bit of putty -and Bison constr kit, sanded again and thought I had a reasonably smooth hull. It does not have to be perfect: it is a paper model after all and should be recognisable as such.

    I thought of spraying in stead of painting.
    So I taped the black stripe with Washi tape, after thoroughly testing the tape on paper left over from other GPM models. Tested it in all foreseable contexts.
    It seemed ok, so I taped and covered the model. Did not take pictures, stupid me...

    Anyway, sprayed the waterline with black. Waited approx 12 hours to let the paint dry, and removed the tape. Ouch...
    The tape did not stick to the paper to cover all (I tested it though !!), and in other places took some paper with it after carefully removing the tape.
    It would not have mattered if it was the red hull plating; unfortunately it took some gray hull side plating too :-((
    See pics...

    I'm not ready to give up. Hate giving up [​IMG].. So I will remove all paper sides, and start with the formers again. Will take the advice to fill her up, the flower oasis seems a good material to use. Missus has a lot of it [​IMG]

    Been to the beach with my lovely, took some shells and wood to create the nameplate with [​IMG]

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Nov 30, 2015
  6. Longbow

    Longbow New Member


    My proceedings so far :
    First I stripped the sides and bottom hull and cleaned the formers from glue parts that were left. I left the dome as it was; it was reasonably smooth. Just painted it with water colours.

    Because oase (the stuff the flowershop works with) is easier to cut just using a knife, I decided to fill the hull with oase. If this does not work out, then maybe I will try the balsa method. Oase is quite soft, so strengthening it with glue seemed neccesary.

    So I cut a piece of oase to size and fitted it. Cut if off and smoothed it.
    And the next 5 parts. See the pics.
    Then I applied hobby glue with my finger in order to harden the surface.
    Problem: the oase shrinks a bit, probably due to a reaction with the glue.
    Being busy with painting my house (inside) I have some putty on hand from our local paint factory and applied it. It is a water based putty, very easy to work with.
    This looks much better, and after drying it leaves a tough surface. Just a little bit of sanding is required.

    This week I will reapply the sides and bottom plating. We'll see [​IMG]

    Attached Files:

  7. DanBKing

    DanBKing Active Member

    Trial and error leads to perfection........If you persist! ;)

    I have never built a 'water-ship' as a paper model yet, (but have my eye on one, due to a Navy recruitment TV video here in NL,) but I feel your pain with getting smooth surfaces...... :(

    I am currently building a model that requires lots of sanding and smoothing, and I have found that once I have the shape of the panel/hull plate correct, I light soaking in CA glue hardens the paper, especially the joints between parts, and this allows quite vigorous sanding of the parts once dry, ........
    A water based wood filler helps in smoothing out 'dents' and other imperfections ........

    I've also found that constructing a hull/fuselage is best done by building the whole thing without the formers in place. If the whole former assembly is first constructed and the outer skin is built free-hand, (using the former assembly to check for form :bulgeeye:,) the end result is smoother.

    And, personally, I don't like gluing anything to the internal formers, as this tends to warp and deform the skinning........

    Look at an egg........ Wobbly as hell on the inside, but perfectly smooth on the outside ........ :biggrin:

    Your innovation, adaption, experimentation and trial-and-error, that you always show in your projects, teaches yourself and everyone else in this forum, how to achieve perfection.

  8. Longbow

    Longbow New Member

    Thanks !

    The 'new' GPM paper is quite thin. I guess 100-120 grams paper. I think that this is one of the main problems the hull was so wrinkled when I started.

    I have applied one side yesterday evening, using the tip to glue the parts of the side first and then apply it.
    I am not disappointed, will post pics when both sides are done.
    The tip of constructing the plating as a whole and later apply it to the formers was a good one !

    Thanks :)
    DanBKing likes this.
  9. zathros

    zathros -----SENIOR---- Administrator

    Longbow, I wish I had seen this thread before you started the bottom, though,, yours came out superb, so my advice would probably not be needed. Standard practice on hull like these is to start at the ends, doing each side as you go along so the ship stays straight. When you get to the middle, any parts that do not line up can be cut to fit as the center of the hull is more forgiving.

    This ship had an interesting life, and it is worth reading as it participated in many theaters of action, and saved lives of people actually floating in the water when their "Dhows' sunk. A great design from a country with a long naval and ship building history. I think it's cool when countries that do not have extremely large populations or landmass, take part in the defense of it. This ship represents the best of those sea traditions of a country that can say, "Don't mess with us".

    The last ship I made like this, I paid one sheet of fiberglass cloth and sanded smooth. Of course, I had to add R/C/ equipment. Point is, making an fiberglass plug front fiber-glassing the original one, then using a releasing agent, can allow you to make a R/C model. I am surprised with how difficult some of these hulls are too make, more people do not do that. I look forward to seeing the rest. Judging by where your at, it should be a fine Gentleman of the Seas, as "Witte de With" was quite a character. :)
  10. Longbow

    Longbow New Member

    Well, I am happy to report the hull is almost ready.
    I attached the sides first, attached the bottom from the outsides to the centre.
    Strangly enough I got some 3 mm more paper than I needed. No problem, better too much than a gap.

    I painted the hull with Vallego flat red, the water line with Vallego dark grey.

    It looks a lot smoother than the first try. I think I am happy with it.
    You can see it's a paper model, and I like it that way.

    Next thing to do is the connection between the deck and the sides. The real ship has rounded off deck sides, so I'll try to simulate this.

    Witte de With was indeed a character :)
    He was not generally loved by his shipmates, but tried to keep them safe. F.i. when he was ordered to Brazil with only two ships, he reconnoitered the resistance, decided the mission could not be accomplished and sailed back to Holland. The 'Staten Generaal' (the government at the time) were quite mad at him, but he just didn't care.
    The mission could not be done, so he abandoned it, saving men and ships. Sound thinking in my mind.

    Attached Files:

  11. Oliver Bizer

    Oliver Bizer Member

    Perfect, i love it!
  12. Longbow

    Longbow New Member

    Thanks Oliver !

    I started with the deckhouses.
    I thought it wise to build the deckhouses like Sakrison did in his superb build of the Bismarck: almost complete them and then glue them to the hull. It makes the work easier and prevents damage to both.

    Started with the middle deckhouse with the smokestack on it.
    The build of the lower house is quite simple; the only addition from my side was to add 4mm wire to the doors to make them stand out a bit more. It's wise to study the drawings thoroughly; I found them a bit 'compact'.
    Cutting all the needed parts from the sheets is a good idea. A little correction is needed as the formers are a little bit to narrow.

    When building the smokestack I made an error; I swithed the front-end/ back-end on the base plate. It was correctable but it showed me that the drawings are easily misread.

    There is still a lot of work to be done with the smokestack, it's an enjoyable model to puzzle out and build.

    Attached Files:

    DanBKing likes this.
  13. Longbow

    Longbow New Member

    Proceeded with the smokestack, finished the lower part. There is to be a mast on top of it, but I will wait with the construction untill I have completed all lower parts in order to avoid damage.
    I added the 'railings' on the sides using leftovers from my earlier 'Prince of Wales' build. Never throw anything remotely useful away [​IMG]

    Started with the ventilation buildup in front of the smokestack. The build is not very complicated, the fit is very good.

    Attached Files:

    DanBKing likes this.

Share This Page