Discussion in 'Gliders, Powered, Unpowered, Military or Civilian' started by PaperAir, May 4, 2014.
this is a f-22 glider made from foam board . the glider is by scott lott.
just waiting for it to dry .clean it up and then a test flight.
won,t fly back to the drawing board
were do you have you cg centered at? i found that having it located at or near the intake allows some of the best gliding characteristics
i will have to check that
the cg is way to the back center wing
IT FLYES!!!thanks freddyman.i took some off the back bottom.
You should consider making a jig that will balance the plane under the wings. This way, you can find the planes "natural" C.G. by moving the plane forward and backwards on the jig. You can then decide to add weight or remove. If you have a good sized plane like that F-22, taking that weight you removed, and placing it exactly on the C.G. will be adding weight to the aircraft, and it is kind of a "battery" or sorts, A As it weights more, you will be loading the wings more, making it fly through the air, with the extra weight needing more force to throw, it will be returned to you by distance. I used to make some gliders so light, you could not get any distance because you could not throw them hard enough. I would have to use a rubber band, or toss them from a very high building to get those super long, sometimes lose the plane, flights. If you make the jig attached below, make 1/16th flats on the top to make it easier to balance the plane, adjust the variables as necessary, (in other words, make it as big or small as you need). It's good to have the balance points on the same plane of reference, which is why I always attach it to a plate, which is what the blank square is. Rule of thumb, start 1/3 back from the total lift area of the wing's area to find the C.G. Try to make the center of lift just beind it, so it will always fly slightly nose done, when it has finished rising, then it
thank you Zathros.
I used to have one made from plexiglass, with the hinge on ball bearings for RC aircraft. I sold it along with my field box when I decided to quit flying.
You don't need anything complicated, but it is neat to find the C.G., because on oddly shaped wings, you may find the Center of Lift is further aft or forward than you thought. On Ekranoplans, the center of lift moves forward as the craft rises into ground effect, which is why they need to have a stabilator, or elevator, out of the turbulence and high in the clean airflow, so that control can be maintained. That is why all the Russian W.I.Gs have such big tail planes, and is also the key to making a successful W.ing i.n G.round Effect aircraft.
this would make a cool paper model
Yes, it would. I have designed the A-90 but because of piracy, and what happened at a certain place, I won' release it, or the ESKA Ekranoplan I designed. There is an ESKA in the Resource section, I suggest you check it out. It is a great model. The only suggestion I give is that when (if) you build it, make sure that the outside sponsons (floats) are both touching the surface, as the Hull is. That is how the real one was, also, the wing should have a twist with the tips twisting 5 degrees downwards. That is why when you see photos of these (the ESKA) flying, they are always nose up. The real one, used a 63 H.P. motorcycle engine, fly normally between 3 to 9 feet high, but could take leaps, using kinetic energy a couple of hundred feet into the air. It could do almost 100 m.p.h.. Only one single passenger was used. It flew on the Volga river for 10 years, as part of the U.S.S.R.'s fishery patrol security (like our Environmental Police). It was an all weather craft, flying and landing on water, or ice, didn't matter, it was quite robust.
Link = http://zealot.com/resources/eska-ekranoplan.1245/
very cool Zathros too bad about the pirates
Try building the ESKA in the Resource section, it is a wonderful model.
i,ll do that
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