ez track

Discussion in 'HO Scale Model Trains' started by Rath150, Jan 4, 2007.

  1. Rath150

    Rath150 Member

    Hi, :wave:

    Have another ? about track.
    I am thinking about using ez track for most of the my layout. However, I may need to use standard track as well, especially at the peak of elevated track.
    Are the two compatible and interchangeable?


  2. hiscopilot

    hiscopilot Member

    I have experimented and have found them to be compatible. Bsically eztrack is a fancy roadbed in my view.
    I am a total novice in the hobby but have managed to set up with different types of track. Good luck.
  3. Rath150

    Rath150 Member

    and thanks.
    I am not just a novice but a 70 year old CONPLETE NOVICE.
  4. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

    I wouldn't use easy track because it has problems with the way it all goes together (to many gaps in the rails). If you want a permanent layout, just use the regular stuff. the final product with road bed material is more or less the ame anyway with better reliability than EZ track.

    however, it is possible to hook up normal track with EZ track, but you need to buy road bed for that track anyway. besides, regular track and road bed is cheaper.
  5. Rath150

    Rath150 Member


    the main reson I wanted to use the ez track is that I hate :curse: working with the cork roadbed.
    some of my layout has it and what a pain!

  6. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

    yeah the cork was tough. I know some people who use AMI road bed, whic is a roll of foam road bed, and its supposed to be real easy to lay down. it is on one piece, as opposed to strips, and apperently you can just go around and glue the stuff on with elmers glue.

    in my opinion, you'd end up replacing the cork problem with a reliability problem. Its ok to use the EZ track for something you want to put up and take down often, but as a permanend layout i don't think its a good idea.
  7. NYNH&H

    NYNH&H Member

    EZ-Track is for Christmas trees, flex and cork is for layouts. Try the foam stuff if you want. Also, there are pre-made turnout pads made out of cork to make it a lot easier for you. EZ-Track will give you problems later. It does not run reliably, and has bad electrical loss. I know this from experience, and I now use Atlas SuperFlex and cork. If you interface cork and EZ-Track, the cork is just taller than half the height of the EZ-Track, so there will be a small grade involved. If you are using mostly EZ-Track (NOT ADVISABLE AT ALL), then cork double-stacked is just a tiny bit higher.
  8. Rath150

    Rath150 Member

    I think you jsut made up my mind.
  9. NYNH&H

    NYNH&H Member

    Oh yeah, if you don't want the EZ-Track, you could probably sell it to a dealer for a few $$ anyways, or you can use it for the under the Christmas tree! Look at the different track codes, code 100 is very big, but easy and reliable, where code 83 is more realistic and just about as easy reliable. Many people liike Code 83 Atlas Flex and Peco turnouts. Peco turnouts are known for reliability, but are more $$$ than Atlas. I use Atlas. Make sure your turnouts are "DCC friendly", so if you use DCC, or will ever use it, you will not have turnout troubles. They will also help a bit in having more reliable DC operation.
  10. Rath150

    Rath150 Member

    I don't have the ez track. I thought I would ask before taking the jump.
    Here is where my dumbness and newness come to light. What is DCC as compared to DC?
  11. hooknlad

    hooknlad Member

    Good Evening Paul and Welcome to the gauge !!!! Your question is not dumb at all.... In simple terms DC - you are able to run (control) only one engine at a time on a track without having the ability to control the functions of the engines as well ( lights, sounds, etc.. ) while having to use many electrical blocks ( switches ) to control the power to sections of the track. the DC voltage is variable at the track.
    DCC - the ability to control and run many engines on a track and control the lights and sounds of the engines as well. The voltage at the track is constant and there is a signal superimposed onto the track which signals the individual trains to function. less electrical blocks.
    DC - low cost - lots of wiring. - fun for the hobbyist
    DCC - high intial cost - moderate cost to upgrade each engine - very neat and allot of fun - fun for the hobbyist.
    I think i got it right and simple
  12. 60103

    60103 Pooh Bah

    Rath: there is a whole section of the forum devoted to DCC.
    Digital Command Control is the use of computer-related technology to deliver commands to locomotives (and other things) rather than direct current to blocks on the tracks.
    There have been a few little problems because the DCC controllers have a very sensitive short-circuit detector that shuts down the whole layout for a little bitty short at a turnout -- wheels touching the wrong point or bridging 2 rails in the frog. Various construction variations are supposed to make turnouts "DCC friendly".
  13. CRed

    CRed Member

    Is laying cork really that bad?I have nice engines,some nice cars and I don't even have a layout yet because I don't know what to do.First I was going to use e-z track then I changed my mind and was going to use kato unitrack,now I'm thinking about using Atlas code 83 super flex and such,but it seems that may be harder then I though it was.Argh!I don't know what the hell I'm doing!heh.

  14. LongIslandTom

    LongIslandTom Member

    Putting down cork I thought was pretty darn easy...

    - Draw the midline of the track on the foamboard or plywood or whatever you are going to lay the track on.

    - Lay down a bead of latex caulking on one side of the track line you drew.

    - press the half-strip of cork onto the bead of caulking (it will stick pretty good), lined up with the drawn trackline. Pin it down temporarily using pushpins.

    - Lay down another bead of latex caulking on the other side of the track line.

    - Press the other half-strip of cork onto the bead of caulking, and butt it up against the other half-strip of cork you placed earlier. Pin it down temporarily using pushpins.

    - Come back after a few hours, remove the pushpins, and voila-- Your cork roadbed is firmly affixed with the hardened caulking, and ready to receive track.
  15. Rath150

    Rath150 Member

    Hey Chris,
    Don't feel alone. I am brand new at this my self. This forum has really helped me in a number of ways.
    Listen to these railroaders and you can't go wrong.
    I'll try to follow the last suggestion with the cork.
    My problem is impatience. Maybe that is because I'm 70. At least I will blame it on age.
  16. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

    my layout runs on cork. Its alright. I didn't follow the directsion ( the Midwestern brand say you should dip it in hot water to allow it to flex) I just glued and nailed it down. if any nails got in the way later, i removed them.

    just follow the cork's directions, all you need is a tub of hot water, and elmers glue, as well as some tacks.

    AMI is supposed to be even easier, with not seperate strips. Its just a roal of foam shaped like road bed that you just glue on and cut. Its super simple.
  17. NYNH&H

    NYNH&H Member

    Cork is easy except for the turnouts, but you can get turnout pads. DCC is the best way to control scale model trains, as you control the train not the track. DC wiring is a nightmare, basically you cann only run one train at a time, and even then storing other trains with shutoffs and stuff is a nightmare. DCC rocks. For anyone starting out, the Digitrax Zephyr is an awesome system, and has a lot of room to grow.

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