Engine Burned Out?

Discussion in 'G / O / S Scale Model Trains' started by Brent, Dec 9, 2004.

  1. Brent

    Brent New Member

    My son has a Lionel NY Central steam engine O gauge set. The engine (image attached) got stuck on a nail used to hold down the track and I think the motor burned out (it smelled like burned rubber).
    The family is obviously distressed since it's so close to Christmas. Can anyone provide me direction to the fastest remedy? For example, can I order a new motor and install it myself?

    Thanks in advance,


    Attached Files:

  2. cidchase

    cidchase Active Member

    Hi Brent :wave:

    This is what I personally would do.
    First, I would start dis-assembling the loco, until I either found the problem
    or got stuck. (I am cursed with wanting to take things apart) :mad:

    Second, being stuck, I would put all the parts in a box and take it to the
    Hobby Shop, hoping that they had or knew a person who could fix it. :( :(

    You might want to skip step one. If you haven't done it already, you
    probably don't want to. :D :D

    Wish I could do better. Seriously, many hobby shops do have some
    repair knowledge or know who to take it to. :) I'm sure Lionel will
    repair it for you, but NOT before Christmas. They'll be glad to sell you
    a new one!! (I'm just full of helpful ideas, am I not?) :D :D Best of luck!!
  3. Ray Marinaccio

    Ray Marinaccio Active Member

    Does this loco run on AC or DC?
    Some of the newer AC locos use an electronic reversing unit in the loco and have a DC motor.
    I would remove the shell and test the motor with a DC power pack to determine if the motor is the problem.
  4. Dave Farquhar

    Dave Farquhar Member

    I'm not sure of the vintage of the 8632, so I don't know whether it's one of those that's quick and easy to swap out a motor or a pain. But Lionel has made a lot of 2-4-2 locomotives over the years, and they're pretty cheap to buy. Any place that sells vintage Lionels is likely to have at least one 2-4-2 pretty cheap (like $25 or $30).

    I would *not* take the locomotive apart, as Lionel's 2-4-2s are notorious for being difficult to take apart and even worse to put back together. Most of them were designed as throwaways, unfortunately, although a lot of the more expensive Lionels are very easy to work on.

    If you're not able to locate something locally, or for a decent price on Ebay, post back here and I can make a couple of phone calls. If you search Ebay, be sure to look not just at Lionel but also at K-Line and Marx, as both of them made inexpensive 2-4-2s and they'll run fine on your Lionel track and with your Lionel cars.
  5. Tyson Rayles

    Tyson Rayles Active Member

    Brent if you smelled burning rubber you may have just damaged a traction tire. Look on the driving wheels (the 4 big ones) and two of em', probably the rear two should have a black rubber band looking thing on them. If one got burnt off or is still on there but somewhat melted and misshapened the loco should still run but it would wobble badly and probably won't pull many cars or go up a steep grade. Any hobbyshop would have replacements and can probably chage em out while you wait. If that's not it then the motor may be gone and like Dave said you probably don't want to try to change it yourself, but the hobby shop could.
  6. TR-Flyer

    TR-Flyer Member

    Hi Brent:
    In order to figure out what's wrong you are going to need a means of checking for an open circuit. IF you don't have this means, or knowledge about how to do it, then i'd look for a replacement engine. Try posting to the OGR website. I think this link will get you there: http://ogaugerr.infopop.cc/6/ubb.x?a=frm&s=631600428f=57660482
    These folks focus on O-gauge railroading and it's a very active board. Someone there may be able to walk you through a diagnostic. Let us know how it goes.

  7. 3railguy

    3railguy Member

    The engine appears to be a newer model with a can motor and electronic reverse. Can motors are cylinder shaped and silver, mounted parallel with the axle. When an engine like this is dead headed like this was, the electronic reverse is notorious for burning out and they often fry before the motor does. This is because on low end engines, the amp rating is low. As another poster noted, I would first check to see if a traction tire melted and jammed the drive (you smelled burnt rubber). If that's not the case, remove the shell and look for the motor so you can test it. Can motors use DC electricity rectified by the reverse unit. Do not use the trainset transformer to test the motor. Your transformer is AC. You could easily fry the motor. Use an 8 to 14 volt DC power source such as a car battery charger to test the motor. This is not difficult to do. Take two lengths of solid core bell wire (or similar) and clamp the charger leads to the ends of the bell wire. Be very careful not to let the leads short out. use the other ends of the bell wire and touch the two terminals of the can motor. If it turns, then the reverse unit is toast. You may be tempted to do this with a car battery but that is dangerous. Should you short the leads, or if the motor has a short, you could easily burn your fingers or even cause the car battery to explode.

    If the reverse unit is fried, replacements can be ordered. BUT XMAS IS VERY CLOSE!!! you can temporarily jerry rig it by replacing the reverse unit (reverse board) with a bridge rectifier and have the engine run in only one direction. Radio Shack sells a 4 amp unit, P/N 276-1171 for $1.59. There will be two outside prongs market + and -. Those go to the motor. The two inner prongs take track power. (double check what I'm saying by looking for + or - signs on the rectifier and/or packaging since designs are subject to change). Trace out the wires and remove the reverse unit. The two leads that do not feed the motor are track power. First, solder the track power leads to the inner rectifier prongs (or prongs not marked + or -).Now if you can, set the powerframe on the track and apply track power. Nothing will happen of course. We want the right polarity to the motor. Touch the motor leads to the rectifier + and - prongs and see what direction the power frame takes off. If it takes off reverse, reverse the leads and try again. If it takes off forward, solder the motor leads to the same rectifier prongs you touched. Test the power frame on the track. Wrap electrical tape around the prongs, soldered joints, and any exposed wire. Tape the rectifier to the power frame somewhere. Test the power frame again on the track. Then reattach the shell.

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