eek the cost!

Discussion in 'Track Planning' started by screwysquirrel, Jul 25, 2003.

  1. several of you helped with designing my last trackplan. However, when I go toput the costs together I come up woth a rather massive *22* turnouts... far more than I can afford right now, so while still working on the benchwork, I cruised some websites, amd chopped a couple dogbone ideas into this single track design. it could be a logging or ore mining line, or a short line somewhere in the appalachians or Ozarks:

    the numbers are the appropriate atlas Riser from their Pier sets, or terrain or equivelent size. 1 pier set can handle the rise from 0 to the first bridge pair, then more piers hold up the second bridges, while the space in between is filled with terrain at 1 11/16 inches -- the same height as the '12' -- or possibly 2 inches, which is 10/16 of an inch higher than the highest pier, with a double tunnel on the right made by stacking foam.

    The track for this is much cheaper: around $102 compared to $365!

    this can be cut further by the fact that really only 2 turnouts are needed for the upper right interchange and the logging or mining spur on the hill in the middle left, the other spurs (and a yard area) could be added could a passing siding on the upper hill

    Attached Files:

  2. Clerk

    Clerk Active Member

    This will work SS.
  3. MasonJar

    MasonJar It's not rocket surgery

    Before you "undo" all that work, is there any way to make the original plan work by doing it in stages? Can it be broken into managable pieces? Do you even want to attempt it in that fashion?

    Just some thoughts.


    PS - New plan also looks great!
  4. jon-monon

    jon-monon Active Member

    In some ways, I like it better. You have room to do a lot more scenery. If you do a team track you can always serve the industries that are off track. On your other plan you had mentioned some industires were not served by rail on the prototype.

    I am not familiar with N gauge track pricing, but in HO flex track is a heck of a lot cheaper than sectional, and is, well, flexable. I bought a single 3 FT section of N scale flex track at the LHS for full list for about $2. Learn to solder well and it's an easy task. Same for use of the flex track tool in the proggy. (jon steps off the flex track soap box now)

    Looks good!
  5. billk

    billk Active Member

    Reality bites, doesn't it?

    I second Jon's suggestion re: flex track. Where it really helps on the cost is not having to get a lot of the little sections, which can nickle and dime you to death. Also, you will have a lot less rail joints, which are one of the trouble spots, both from an derailing and a electical standpoint. And (finally) you can make "real" transition curves rather than going from a tangent to a 12" radius to a 11" radius section, or whatever.

    You might also save a few $$ by not using the Atlas risers, especially if they're going to be covered by scenery. There's other options available, home-made, cheaper, and probably better.

    I have one comment about your new track plan, Screwy. Looks like you have a pretty good chunk of track in tunnels - how accessible is it? You;ll need to be able to get to it to cleaning the rails, and of course Murphy's Law dictates that is where derailments will occur.
  6. It does indeed

    I was looking at $200 in turnouts alone in the first plan.

    With this, second plan I can build what you see here with ease ($55 in track, $35 in switches, and $25 in risers and bridges.

    later I can add 3 passing sidings (outside the upper left hand curve, and going up with teh risers on each of the front straights (though won't THAT be fun, tryng to place risers on a turnout!),
    with one siding turning into an inner yard area.

    My plan is to really only run with piers in the upslope curves, but its easier to use the pier riser number 1, 2, 3, ... 12 than to say 9/64, 27/64 1 11/16 etc...
  7. Tileguy

    Tileguy Member

    I know the feeling when it comes to the cost of turnouts SS.
    My plan will ultimatly have 55-60 turnouts and perhaps as many as 24 will have under table switch machines at another 15 bucks a pop.
    I did buy some of my turnouts used and cleaned and reconditioned them.I also bought a large supply of them on ebay that were new in the package for about 1/2 lucky that day let me tell ya.
    I like the idea of your new plan.its a bit easier for a beginner and very functional.You can also add on to it with another door in an L shape if ever you gain the additional room .You really are going to have to bite the bullet and learn to solder though:p
  8. Matthyro

    Matthyro Will always be re-membered

    You are so right about the cost of turnouts SS. If you can build your layout intially with as few turnouts as your mainline has to have then gradually add more as the budget allows and or getting family to buy them for you for Birthday or Christmas gifts. This is what I have done over the years and now think I only need a few more to complete my layout. Talking about ouch. .:eek:.:eek:.:eek:
    at this point I have spent about $4000 on track and turnouts over a number of years.
  9. Tileguy

    Tileguy Member

    But Robin, tell the truth, You spent alot more than that on that really spiffy train room didnt ya :D
  10. Matthyro

    Matthyro Will always be re-membered

    You are right Tileguy
    Because this is the third layout in the same space since 1992. I try to recycle as much as I can but. Scenery and paint cost a few bucks along with the lumber and lighting. Who said our hobby isn't expensive. Just like everything else these days
  11. Who says?

    well, After comparing this with my (when I was a dot-commer) $200/month Japanese cartoons habit, this isn't so bad
  12. akrrnut

    akrrnut New Member

    Instead of using the Atlas risers, you might consider using the Woodland Scenics foam risers instead, especially in the tunnel areas. These will give you a firm base for your trackwork, and are pretty easy to install. They're not cheap, but I think you'll like them.

    Just be sure to file down the transition at the top of the grade so the trackwork flows smoothly from the grade to the flat area at the top. Otherwise your track will float above the roadbed.

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