Edge Coloring?

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by jparenti, May 8, 2007.

  1. wyverns4

    wyverns4 Member

    I try!

    Although I religiously color the edges of my models, I'm firmly convinced it is the major downfall of my efforts! I'm still looking for the "Perfect" edge coloring tool. I'm ready to invest in some colored pencils next, as the markers I have bleed too much.

  2. sjsquirrel

    sjsquirrel Member

    Almost always

    I almost always do. I have a package of those colored sharpies that match a lot of stuff close enough for me, and for everything else I have a set of watercolors I use.
  3. MOS95B

    MOS95B Member

    This topic came just in time. My favorite edge colring marker is on it's last leg. Lots of great ideas for a replacement.
  4. jparenti

    jparenti Member

    Okay, I admit it: Part of the reason I asked was to see how many of you actually do color the edges. And partly I wanted ideas on what to use to color the edges on my own models. I used a Sharpie last night on the Sigma 7 I built, but I can see why bleeding would be a problem with other models. Mercury capsules are mostly black, so I didn't have to worry, but in the future, I have lots of great ideas now! :grin:
  5. Amazyah

    Amazyah Senior Member

    Acrylic paint is a good alternative too.
    I buy the small bottles at hobby stores. They are inexpensive and come in countless array of colors.
    Sometimes I can get lucky and find an exact match, but most of the time it is close enough to not notice.
    It does take more time to do as the paint dries quickly and you can only do a small area at a time.
    If you have the time and patience, it is an excellent method.

  6. CardStalker

    CardStalker Member

    My first models i did not edge color, in fact I learned from this forum about it. If I never build a model sometimes I don't cause I'm doing a test build, but then I make another fully colored.
  7. SCEtoAux

    SCEtoAux Member

    What I like about Prang pencils is they can be used dry to edge the parts, or a very quick dip in some water makes them act a bit like water color pencils. I have had no problems with any bleeding, and since a very quick dip in water is all that is needed, have had no problems with warping. The colors can be blended a bit to get a closer match of the color, although I usually just pick the pencil that is closest to the color I need.:)
  8. SteveG

    SteveG Member

    I have heard the suggestion that you colour with dry watercolour pencils and then with a wet finger wipe the edge over to put the colour into the edge
  9. mbauer

    mbauer Cardstock Model designer

    My models are printed using a HP Designjet 450c 2ft wide plotter. It has 600 dpi black and only 300 dpi color.

    It is used to print out "blueprints". Simple color (256 color only) and black or grayscale plotting. It is severely challenged by doing full ink plots of the models. Sometimes it leaves streaks of extra ink or white bands.

    I have to be able to match the color, to touch uip the models as needed. Watercolors work the best. Very lite brush work once the right color has been mixed.

    Been wanting to try different methods. Watercolor pencils sound interesting!

    Thanks for the great tips!

  10. thewoodengraver

    thewoodengraver Active Member

    Yes...almost always...

    If you want to pull out ALL your hair...use a Sharpie! (HORRIBLE !!!)

    Yup HBB, Acrylic paint is #1 in my book, if I don't have the exact color, I just mix them. Also, if I dip my finger into the paint, lightly dab off excess, I now have a paintbrush which will paint ONLY the edge.
  11. Rick Thomson

    Rick Thomson Member

    I've just started to colour the edges, using a variety of things, watercolour pencils, felt markers, paint (both acrylic and oil based).
  12. DrBill

    DrBill Member

    Let us know your results and impressions.
  13. dwgannon

    dwgannon Member

    I did not at first. Then saw the error of my ways. Now I will not build with out a color edges. Unless of course it's suposed to be white. :)
  14. lizzienewell

    lizzienewell Member

    Sharpie is probably not a good choice. I periodically keep a sketch journal, and sometimes I draw with a Sharpie. In journals that are ten years old the ink is degrading the paper. From the backside it is turning the paper brown. I believe this is because Sharpie ink is acidic. Next time I color an edge and need the model to last I'll invest in acid-free markers.

  15. Mark_1984

    Mark_1984 Guest

    That's a great tip - thanks Lizzie

    (hurridly scurries off to the shops - by the way, does anybody know the Korean for acid free markers ;))
  16. DrBill

    DrBill Member

    Mark: I'd try some of the art shops in Insa-dong. And stick with water-based paints if you can....
  17. DrBill

    DrBill Member

    Lizzie: That's a really good point. But if you want to worry about acidic materials, just think about the cardboard most of us use for laminating (writing pad backing, shirt cardboard from the laundry, etc.). That stuff must be as acidic as newsprint. I've found that you can get acid-free poster board from most art supply stores. It's a little more forgiving than mat stock (which is really hard, and a bear to cut), and it can be had in a variety of thicknesses. It's also cheaper than mat board.

    This may be getting really OT, but I have seen some serious fading with commercial models purchased and built 6-7 years ago. I've got a Fly Model I-16 that I built around 2001 and have noticed that the colors are really fading. Acrylic paints used for touch-up when I built the model -- ones that matched perfectly a few years ago -- now stand out like a sore thumb. I haven't noticed the same thing with my older Halinski models, but they didn't require much in the way of touch-up.... Curiously enough, I haven't seen this problem at all in the downloaded models I printed myself -- including the FG Piper Cub that rekindled my interest in card modeling (and that still sits on the bookshelf).
  18. Mark_1984

    Mark_1984 Guest

    Thanks Bill, I'll drop by Insa Dong next time I'm in Seoul. (I guess it's in Seoul ?)

    I'm going to give water colours a go. Sharpies are just so convenient tho.....
  19. sakrison

    sakrison Member

    I remember reading somewhere (cardmodel FAQ? Saul's page?) that matching the color isn't as important as matching the contrast. I use Prang watercolor pencils and Faber-Castell art markers in a 3 shades of grey, 2 of brown, and one each of medium blue, red, grey-green, and yellow. Most of the time, I use the greys.

    For large projects, like the GPM "Loepold Rail Gun," I'm using Testor's Modelmaster paints. The kit has several miles of edges to color-all in Wermacht tan. On a model that size, painting the edges -- many of them 0.5 or 1.0 mm -- makes sense.

    Yes, it's a fair amount of extra time and effort, and yes, it DOES make a difference in the finished product.

    If you're not coloring the edges of your parts, at least try it.

    No worries,
  20. DrBill

    DrBill Member

    Mark -- I'm getting completely OT, but Insa-Dong ("Sally's Alley") is the art and antiques district of Seoul. Lots of calligraphy shops, antique store, galleries and art supply shops. It's pretty close to the National Museum and Imperial Palace if I recall correctly, though cab drivers know Insa-Dong. Some really great traditional restaurants, too! That would be my first stop for art supplies and brushes (try the calligraphy shops). They close the street and turn it into an arts and crafts mall on the weekends.

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