Edge coloring: What do you use?

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by alfadoc, Mar 19, 2006.

  1. I use acrylic paints. They are cheap and available in a wide range of colors. If you don't want to buy a bunch of colors, a few colors can be be easily mixed to match pretty much any color you may need.
  2. Larry

    Larry New Member

    I use Winsor & newton (artists water colour) for large models and Derwent watercolour pencils, I wet the end of the pencil with a paint brush and paint
    the model.
  3. lizzienewell

    lizzienewell Member

    I've been using Sharpies but that is because most of my models are black. I've also use Prismacolor pencils if I need closer match.
    With markers I've found that it's best to darken the edges before building the model. I put the part upside down and draw around the edges from the back.
  4. Kevin G

    Kevin G Member

    If I do it at all I use watercolor pencils or sharpie markers.
    Actually I don't edge color too much since I find it to be alot of work for such a minimal gain in appearance on the model. Maybe if I ever get close to being as good as some of our expert builders here I might worry about it, but for now that is a lot of wasted time that could be better spent on actually building a model.
  5. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    When you guys use the water color pencils how do you do it? Dip the pencil tip in water and color the edge or just color the edge with it dry or what?
  6. rmks2000

    rmks2000 Member

    With pencils, I wet the pencil, dab a small brush against it, then use the brush to color the edge. Most of the time I use water color paints (the tube type). I just bought a new set for $10 at Michaels compared to a Prismatic pencil set that would have cost $30. With the paints, you can let the stuff dry and wet it again when you need to. This is especially handy if you had to mix colors to get a certain blend and you can't get back to the build for a few days (or weeks).
  7. lrjanzen

    lrjanzen Member

    I used the edge of the pencil. seems to give me more control. But the brush method used by rmks2000 worked fine too. I would use my 'regular watercolors if I were using a brush. I second rmks2000 on the use of tubes. Pans require you to add H20. You could use tubes right out of the tube. W/N Cotman or Talons Van Gogh are cheap and readily available here in the US.You really only need about 8 colors to do what ever you need to do.

    There is no such thing as a "pure" primary(blue, red, yellow) in paints. All "lean one direction or another to a secondary (Orange, green, purple).
    Cad red, Aliz Crimson or a Q magenta, cad yellow, lemon yellow, Ultramarine blue, cobalt blue or Pthalo blue, raw sienna burnt sienna.

    The Secondary parings are:
    Cad red+Cad yellow=Orange
    Aliz crimson+Ultramarine=Purple
    Lemon Yellow+Cobalt blue=green
    To get a black add three primaries

    these give you the brightest secondaries. you can use the others to get a duller version of the secondary. The two siennas are thee to provide a means to simulate the earth tones (dirt, grime, tiles, brick etc). They are also very good at knocking down the straight colors. For example you can add Raw Sienna to Cad Yellow to give you a slightly duller version. To get a darker tone mix a secondary then add the third primary to get the tone you want. Burnt Sienna makes an excellent color to use when you want to tone down the darker primaries (blues and reds) and Raw Sienna for the yellows.

    PS: If you use pthalo blue BEWARE! this paint is VERY staining (tools, rugs pets). A little will go a long way. it will dominate a mix very quickly.
  8. nebeltex

    nebeltex Member

    lrjanzen is right about acrylics. one does not need a whole lot of colors. a small collection of inexpensive craft paints can last you a decade (for edges). if you aren't experienced at mixing and matching colors, i'd recommend getting a "color wheel" which is a sort of color mixing calculator (non electronic). it will save a lot of frustration and straighten the learning curve. if a sharpy will work, i'll use one. most important, one good $10.00 brush is better than 100 $.10 brushes.
  9. Ken Horne

    Ken Horne Member

    Hey Gang,

    I must disagree with Kevin. I LOVE edge colouring and I feel that it indeed time well spent. I most enjoy watercolours. Painting the edge of a piece in the appropriate shade instantly trasforms the part from looking like I cut it out of card to being a piece of a fine model. The depth it adds and reality it adds is perfect.

    I must admit though that I usually now use a trio of grey markers for nearly everything. So quick and easy, and the results are nearly as good. Here is a picture of the ones I use. There are more in the series and I guess I would like more but these three seem to work for me.

    Take care,


    Attached Files:

  10. Kevin G

    Kevin G Member

    Just to clarify, I didn't mean that it is a waste of time always. Just with the quality of build that I do I honestly don't feel that coloring the edges is gonna add much realism and I wouldn't exactly call any of my builds a "fine model".:grin: I am getting there though and as my building gets better I too will do all the edge coloring.
  11. Bengt F

    Bengt F Active Member

    Edge Coloring


    I agree - edge coloring is a must. Shining white edges spoils the appearance of a fine model.
    I use a thin black marker (Sharpie) for deep black areas and water colors or water color pencils for all other areas.
    The models would be half finished without them, I think.

    Bengt :wink:
  12. Ken Horne

    Ken Horne Member

    Hi Kevin,

    ya I haven't heard too many people clamour over my "Fine" models either lately :)

    I think though that I get a greater deal of satisfacion that I deserve when I have done the edges. Those markers I've shown , sharpies, el cheepo kids markers, watercoulour paints all seem to work for me. I've never had the remotest sucess with watercoulour pencils, or any other pencil I'm afraid. I must be doing something wrong there.

    Take care all, and as always, "To Each Their Own"

  13. Fishcarver

    Fishcarver Active Member

    Print it in B &W. Apply a sealer, prime it and paint it.

    Works for the Tractor Plant, anyway.........


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