Edge coloring: What do you use?

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by alfadoc, Mar 19, 2006.

  1. alfadoc

    alfadoc Member

    I want to start a survey of what you all use for edge coloring. I have tried a few products, but none seem perfect; most markers bleed through too much, colored pencils don't cover well enough. So, what do you think is best?
  2. 46rob

    46rob Member

    When I have the time--I use watercolors, but mostly I just use Artist's felt pencils. I bought a set of 100 different colors at Michaels a few years ago, and they work extremely well. they will match most everything, and they don't put out so much color that it bleeds.
  3. Gil

    Gil Active Member

    Try using watercolor applied with a cotton swab or Q-tip. Colored pencils work well if you wet them also.

  4. SCEtoAux

    SCEtoAux Member

    I use a set of Prang Fun Pro colored pencils most of the time. I also have a set of watercolor pencils made by Kimberly. Sometimes a plain old No. 2 pencil works too. Sometimes a Sharpie marker. :)
  5. jleslie48

    jleslie48 Member

    sharpie markers are my favorite. they even come in colors now, although they are missing a good grey marker. actually I would love to seem them make a light and dark grey.

    We need a write-in campaign to them requesting it. I write them at lease twice a year requesting it.
  6. rickstef

    rickstef Guest

    i splurged a couple of weeks ago.
    and treated myself to the 3 sets of Prismacolor grey markers
    Warm Greys
    Cool Greys
    French Greys

    i bought them at Dick Blick online www.dickblick.com

  7. Joseph

    Joseph Member

    charcoal, great for buildings. You don't need to push too much on the edge to color it, so no risk you damage it
  8. lunarhighway

    lunarhighway Member

    I'm quite fond of acrillic paint. Either the kind you can get in big tubes in art supply stores or the kind that was sold by games workshop for painting their metal wargame miniatures.. they're all water mixable, so no fumes or clean up hassle.

    a few basic colors will allow you to mix the right color to match the card, and small parts can be painted completely, also add on details made from white card can be blended in... depending on the model i sometimes choose to paint it completely. also you can have metalic and silver colors, which are great for picking out certain details.

    so there you go, that's what i use :)
  9. NOBI

    NOBI Active Member

    Hi there,

    For me, just a watercolor :)
  10. I hardly ever do edge colouring, it's just that I don't mind seeing some white edges on a model, it's inherent to paper models, for my part. But it's a matter of taste, obviously. The only models I use(d) edge colouring on are the BirdMobile models, there I use(d) medium and dark brown felt pencils on the edges of the individual feathers, thus adding a 'shadowy' effect and creating some 'depth'.

    Another idea to avoid white edges altogether is trying to design/build your models with all edges and 'seams' to the rear, back, or underside of the model, so out of sight altogether. But that would only work well when you're designing your own stuff, like I do, or seriously redesign a model, which is seldom worth it.

  11. Bengt F

    Bengt F Active Member

    Edge Colouring and Retouching

    Hi Sheila,

    For black areas or edges, I mostly use fine black marker pens. For grey edges, I have a used black marker which is almost completely empty, that gives a slightly smoke-grey colour. If I want a darker shade I apply several strokes until it looks good.
    For bright red areas or edges, I also use a fine marker pen. But of course, you have to do it with great care, as there is no way of repairing errors when it bleeds through or spreads over contour lines other than painting them over with a gouache or acrylic paint, which isn´t really desirable.

    For lighter colours, I use water colour pencils (on heavy card) and regular water colours (thin paper), applied with the finest possible brushes.
    For enhancing white areas, I use white or near-white gouache water colours, depending on the colour of the paper base. I have also tried wax crayons, but the paint tend to come off and stick to other areas, leaving unwanted spots.
    I also do a lot of scraping (retouching of black lines and visible edges) with a very pointed scalpel blade (Swann & Morton E 11).

  12. damraska

    damraska Member

    I use LePlume markers, mostly grays. They're acid free, fade-proof, water resistant, and so on.

  13. missymouse

    missymouse Member

    i use the craft type acrylics in the small 2 ounce bottles mainly cuz i can get them at the crafts store for $0.99 a bottle and for clean up i use regular old 70% isopropyl alcohol, seems to get alot of the gunk off the bristles but then again i can get a pack of 25 different crafts/art brushes at the craft store to for $5 :)
  14. Bluenoser

    Bluenoser Member

    Yup. Me too. Lots of colors, cheap to buy, easy to clean up with. Actually, I painted entire models with these. Quicker and easier than messing around with repainting on the computer.
  15. w1xq

    w1xq New Member

    I do what Joseph does and use charcoal pencils. I have a soft, medium and extra soft charcoal pencils. I follow uo with a q-tip to rub the color in to fade it. I build mostly lighthouses and cathedrals and these do best for me. I have used markers and colored penciled. John
  16. jasco

    jasco Member

    Generally I use colored pencils, but occasionally will use watercolors or acrylic. Usually it's whatever is closest to the color I need. Colored pencils are good if you don't mind burnishing the edge a little.
  17. Darwin

    Darwin Member

    My preference is watercolor pencils....however, it often boils down to whatever comes closest to matching the color of the model. I have pastels, craft store acrylics, charcoals, watercolors, etc. in the toolbox....about the only thing I haven't tried yet are the tube paints with the ball-point-type applicators, and that's only because it would be too much effort to dig far enough back into the closet to find where the wife stashed them. Got to admit I tend to agree with Sheila, though....the occasional raw edge draws attention to the fact these little masterpieces are paper....if I wanted the look of a plastic kit, I would build in plastic. I mainly worry about coloring in large areas of white, like the reverse side of railings, etc. that aren't colored on the parts pages, or for applying weathering.
  18. Jim Nunn

    Jim Nunn Member

    I have used just about every method and what works best for me are good quality watercolors. Watercolor pens are my second choice. The main reason is that I want to exactly match the color of the model and I can do this with watercolors and not be concerned with the paint drying out, just add a little water and the your paint is ready. A couple of hints add a drop or two of liquid soap to the water you are using I’m assuming you are using a small container say the size of a shot glass (The shot glass is also very useful tool when the fits are bad, but I digress). My second hint is mix up your colors out doors on a sunny day. Unless you are using full color spectrum lighting you will end up with a miss matched color when the lighting changes. Lastly purchase some high quality brushes they will make painting go a lot easier.
  19. sruch

    sruch New Member

    Oil Pastels....works great. Works quickly, no drying time, no paint mixing, flat finish.
  20. lrjanzen

    lrjanzen Member

    Anyone ever tried watercolor pencils? I use them for sketching and you can just dip the tips in water then run along an edge.

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