Edge coloring after assembly

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by dansls1, Jun 4, 2007.

  1. dansls1

    dansls1 Member

    Alright - so I'm starting to color the edges of the ship I'm working on - but I've found that the markers I bought don't color where I've glued :cry: (all white glue). Obviously going forward I'll be coloring before assembly. Will water colors cover the glue, or would I have to go to some other paint type?
  2. SCEtoAux

    SCEtoAux Member

    It has been my experience that water colors will not do a good job of covering the glue. Try acrylic craft paint.

    Yes, edging the parts before assembly is a good idea. Coloring the glue tabs in the area where they are attached to the part is a good idea too, to counter any bad alignment.:)
  3. Nekayah

    Nekayah Member

    Mixing a little white glue or gesso into the acrylic paint makes it stick even better than the paint alone and fills in tiny gaps so that you don't know the gaps are there. When I do this I use a toothpick instead of a brush to apply the paint. If you use a brush, keep it wet and wash it as soon as possible to avoid wrecking the brush. I agree it helps a lot to anticipate the need to color edges and tabs before assembly, but even then I need to touch up with paint at the end.
  4. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Who you trying to fool carl, you dont have gaps.... heeyyyyyyy wait a minute...... I think I am on to something here! :twisted:
  5. dansls1

    dansls1 Member

    Thanks - guess I'll have to see if all those paints left from my miniature wargame painting days are dried up or not ;)
  6. BARX2

    BARX2 Member

    I wish I could see colors well enough to color edges with paint. As it is, I'm lucky to do a poor job using markers (which have the names of the colors printed on them). :cry: Anyone else here colorblind?
  7. shrike

    shrike Guest

    Roughly 30% of men are to some degree. It's a sex-linked genetic trait carried on the 23rd chromosome pair - the "Y" shaped one that makes men men. It can range from a complete lack of colour perception to , in my own case, problems with subtle greens.
    I have to get the "X" equipped members of the family to help match for me when it matters, having explained that it is one of the few of my many flaws and failings that I am very sensitive to and won't tolerate joking about. It was just enough to knock me out of my fighter pilot slot years ago.

    Getting an assortment of grey markers - Prismacolor makes a half dozen graded on percentages - will solve most of the problem of edge colouring. If you can match the edge to the same, or slightly darker tone, your eye will slide over the joint as just another panel line.
  8. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    Hmmmm, I was under the impression you should use a slightly lighter shade of grey than the model so the line blends in rather than stands out.

    On color blindness. I am a touch blue green color bliond and that also was my reason for not being able to get into electronics when I was in the military - couldnt read all the darn bands on resistors properly.
  9. lairdre

    lairdre Member

    Edge coloring

    I'm not totally color blind, but I do have problems matching and mixing colors. I have found that anything is better than a white edge. In most cases I don't try to match the color. If you build a lot of ships or armour you can get away with gray most of the time. From my perspective it adds depth, or looks like shadow. Naturally it depends on the part. I am the most careful with seams on the bodiy of planes where you want a smoth surface.

    I have started using oil based paint markers that I found in my hobby store. I don't remember the brand name. I can look it up later. I color my edges holding the pen at a 45 degree angle from the back of the paper. I make a very fast pass at the edge. This gets the marker on the paper and doens't allow the paint to soak the paper.

    I have also found that if you user watercolors, use your makers that are almost dried out. Dont' throw them away they work better with less water content.
  10. Art Decko

    Art Decko Member

    BARX2, have you considered building "black and white" (or "grayscale") models?

    For some, modeling is primarily a technical pursuit, but for others (especially here in the card world) it can be as artistic as you want.

    I'm not color blind, but I have designed simple models in b/w. I was doing a series of early 20th century buildings, and I wanted a "film noir" feel, so I did them in grayscale only. I really liked the way they looked, I felt they had a very period feel. There was nothing at all "wrong-looking" about them, just as a b/w photo doesn't look wrong.

    Given that 99% of the images we see of WWII and before are in b/w, things from that era or before done in b/w might be interesting or even "realistic" in that they conform with our prior visual experience of that era.

    Maybe some subjects/eras would look good as sepia-toned models?

    And as a bonus - you can save big time on printer ink! ;-)
  11. shrike

    shrike Guest

    I remember talking to Shep Paine (Diorama guru and cover builder for Monogram back in the day) about the idea of a B&W diorama. He said he's tried it a few time and always ended with it on a ballistic trajectory toward the trash. The problem with paints is that there is no such thing as "BLACK" or "WHITE". He said tints would always creep in, and ruin the effect.
    Cut ahead to now...Greyscale prints..... There's still the problem of paper not being 100% white, not ink 100% black BUT they would be internally consistant.
  12. BARX2

    BARX2 Member

    Well, I'm a little sorry I got off topic with the color blindness, but it was interesting to hear others' stories. I do like building black and white rocket models. I can see colors - just not correctly like "normal" people do - so I prefer colored subjects (like movies) to black and white.
  13. dansls1

    dansls1 Member

    Wow - great information all around. Again from the miniature painting days I knew the 'counting drops' trick - for some models I'd have 6 blends going mixed between colors, doing fades - and on big models I'd have many bits to do those same blends on over multiple days.
    I can't help any in regards to the color blindness - but I certainly don't mind the hijack - I've gotten all the information I asked for and more from the thread ;)
  14. badgerys

    badgerys Member

    Have found that whatever I do afterwards will never be as good as coloring the edges before glueing.My favourite glue is PVA and it will not accept any color from a waterbased markerpen.Love the big packs since they have a lot of different shades to reasonably closely match the colour needed.Those packs are also quite cheap.So as a result of previous mistakes I colour the edges before glueing.
    Kind regards from Down Under

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