Eastern Tn logging on the DG CC & W RR 1928

Discussion in 'Logging, Mining and Industrial Railroads' started by Bill Nelson, Dec 15, 2008.

  1. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    I had a lot of fun painting that. Used a sea sponge to get a lot of the foliage effect. It went pretty quick . I'm looking forward to doing the backdrop behind the Station in Harlow, and the big curve between the Harlow yard and the south wall on the mid level. Those will be hugely important, this one was a dry run.
  2. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    Back at the farm from the lake. one sheetrock screw, and the newly painted back drop is in place. this is a huge improvement!! now I can't wait till I can paint some mountains on the back drop behind the front side of Harlow TN. , directly below, which will go a long way toward tieing this whole mess together thematically. Losing the massive vertical drops on the old split level central peninsula, gives me a much longer, and civilized run, but I will be relying on backdrops a lot more to establish the mountain railroad feel.

    A44a 8-28-16 backdrop a.jpg

    #21 on top of Iron mountain is a testament to the new design. Rod locomotives just did not get on the upper deck of my old railroad. It will be very nice to have #21, the J. H. Morgan able to operate over my whole system.

    A44a 8-28-16 backdrop B1 W # 21.jpg
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  3. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    image.jpeg As scenery creeps into the new Perry's Gizzard I have been working on finding the proper placement for some of my signature structures for that location, primarily the water powered sawmill, whose old foundation won't out with the old Gizzard. It was not as nicely done s the rest of the structure, so I did not bother to save it.

    St. Joseph's church had no foundation, but it set perfectly on some big rocks in the pre existing scenery . That wasn't likely to happen so well again, so I figured it needed a foundation as well.

    I made forms for casting the foundations out of some blue extruded insulation foam, glued together with tachy glue to fill voids, and fastened together with bamboo skewers.

    I poured the forms with hydrocal, let it start so set , and removed it from the forms. I started to try to draw mortar lines in pencil, as a reference for carving. But the mill foundation was still soft enough the pencil worked as a carving tool. image.jpeg

    image.jpeg image.jpeg

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  4. Doctor G

    Doctor G Active Member

    Hey Bill. I really really like the carving you are doing in picture #1......incredible. I got a little lost in the printed word and wondered what you said that would be??? Church? Sawmill? Whatever it is it will sure be nice!!! Tom :Bravo:
  5. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    Tom the tall foundation is for the water powered sawmill, and the short one is for the church.
  6. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    here is the sawmill being auditioned on it's new foundation, which still needs some carving on the back side. As well as a door on the backside to cary out the sawdust. I may carve some of the inside walls, and put a wood floor in. am debating as to weather I should power the water wheel. connecting the sawmill with the rest of the Gizzard, is the Gizzard road, which I cut some logs for at the lake. I need a bunch more. I cut the logsa at the lake as I have my dad's workbench there, with some built in vices, that makes cutting the logs to size easy. I'm fastening the logs to the handi wipes with hot glue, and will glue some rocks in the spaces between the logs, and then pack all the holes with ballast soaked in white glue, which will be plenty strong, and look good too.

    9-7-16   sawmill  foundation test  fit..jpg a44a gizzard  road  waiting  for  cribbing  9-7-16.jpg a44a 9-7-16  beggining  od  cribbing..jpg
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  7. Gandolf50

    Gandolf50 Researcher of obscure between war vehicles... Moderator

    This is sure looking good and moving right along!
  8. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    Working along with a pair of yard clippers and a hand clipper, along with a hot glue gun, my cribbed retaining wall for the gizzard road is progressing faster than any of my other cribbed walls have. after the logs are in I will glue or hot glue some rocks in the voids between the logs, and then back the remaining crevices with ballast soaked in white glue. I will have to cover this thoroughly when I carve the rocks on the cliff above the road, which will be pretty much vertical up to the level of the narrow gauge main line.

    a44a 9-8-16 cribbing a.jpg
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  9. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    I got the logs in on the cribbed retaining wall for the Gizzard road, shown here directly over the back side of Harlow, at the skinniest portion of my central peninsual.

    a44a 9-11-16  cribbed  retining  wall  and  Harlow..jpg
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  10. Doctor G

    Doctor G Active Member

    The cribbing is turning out very nicely. I like the effect. Tom
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  11. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    I started filling in some of the voids between the log cribbing in the gizzard with limestone gravel from the driveway. I stopped when my fingers got too big. wi;ll continue with tweexers later, and finally pack any remaining voids with ballast material soaked in white glue. this is going to look good.

    A44a 9-15-16 cribbed  wall  with  some  rocks.jpg

    A44a 9-15-16 # 14 Climax  and cribbing  with  rocks. .jpg

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  12. Doctor G

    Doctor G Active Member

    That is looking real good, Bill. I like that dandy climax locomotive with the Red Hat too. Tom
  13. zathros

    zathros -----SENIOR---- Administrator

    Bill, you truly are an artist. You technical prowess established, you artistry magnificent!! :Bravo:
  14. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    I had a chance to stay at home last weekend, as the wife had to work on Saturday, and we had hockey tickets in Nashville on Sat night. I got the hot glue gun going and applied a bunch of handi wipes to the cardboard wicker work. I used to use white glue, but the hot glue is faster

    there is a joint in the benchwork sections directly to the left of the log retaining wall. no cardboard , or handi wipes are going to cross that divide, so hopefully if this is ever disassembled, the scenery will crack on that line relatively easily. I made no such provisions on my last build, and there was much destruction of fine scenery as a result.

    I have started plastering this stuff. I have three 100 bags of house plaster I had gotten for house repairs ( my house is a 130 year old farm house, and I have plaster lath walls. we are thinking of redoing the worst walls with sheetrock, so I thought I'd use some of the house plaster. ) the house plaster is way coarser than hydrocal, it does not carve well, but it does make a good solid base, that thinner layers of hydrocal can be put on top of for carving. Also in places that won't be carved it has a good gravely texture, which may require less ground cover to get a good looking surface.

    I spread a big thick layer of the house plaster, over this, and let it dry. I then came back and dampened the house player with a spray bottle, and then slathered a thin layer of hydrocal over the house plaster. the next layer of hydrocal, I should be able to start carving rock formations, and that is where this gets really fun.

    In the bottom photo note the newspaper. a trick Dr.Tom and I have been doing for ages is to spay both sides of a sheet of newspaper with some of the wet water from a scenery spray bottle, and then lay it on top of whatever you want to protect. the damp newspaper lays a lot flatter over uneven surfaces, and when you layer up three or so layers, there atre no gaps, and you get pretty nice protection of finished, or partially finished areas, like my log retaining wall.

    This is going to be a lot of fun. next time I'm working up there, likely I'll be carving rock formations, and that is when things start to look good. It will be great to start to get that massive bridge anchored firmly on the mountain!

    a45a 10-23-16 landforms #1a.jpg a45a 10-23-16 landforms #1b1a.jpg a45a 10-23-16 landforms #1cca.jpg A45a 10-23-16 wet  newspaper protection..jpg
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  15. Doctor G

    Doctor G Active Member

    I remember that old trick with the wet newspapers. Nice explanation for the folks tuning in. Doc Tom
  16. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    Some work carving some rocks at the beginning of the Gizzard High Bridge. I'm doing a first heavy layer of house plaser. then a skim coat of hydrocal, followed by a thicker coat of hydracal, whicch I arve. before adding another layer of plaster I use a spray bottle
    to dampen the previous layer of plaster to help the newer layer to adhere to the old plaster, and sr=et well. if you don't wet the older plaster , it wil sck too much maostuer out of the new plaster, and the new plaster won't set right at the joint.

    A45a 10-28-16 Gizzard bridged cliff !1a.jpg A45a 10-28-16 Gizzard bridged cliff !2a.jpg A45a 10-28-16 Gizzard bridged cliff !3 c d.jpg

    The last photo shows the black plastic on the mid level to protect the buildings and track form errant p;aster from above.
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  17. zathros

    zathros -----SENIOR---- Administrator

    What you're making here is fantastic, I've never seen anything like this, or ever anything like this in the making. You techniques transcend model making, and go into mold making. I was a Mold Maker, Tool and Dye, Master machinist, and ended up programming CNC machines and Robotics. You are doing things by hand that I saw Manufacturing Engineers pull there hair out trying to figure out. My respect you you and you art flourishes. ;)

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