Eastern Tn logging on the DG CC & W RR 1928

Discussion in 'Logging, Mining and Industrial Railroads' started by Bill Nelson, Dec 15, 2008.

  1. Doctor G

    Doctor G Active Member

    Excellent work!!!


    Wonderful work!!! Reminds me of an HO "barn raising" out in Mennonite or Amish country.

    Looking forward to more pics.
    Doc Tomballoon6
  2. Sawdust

    Sawdust Member

    Nice job Bill. Have you decided on what finish roofing material your going to use. It would look good with wooden shakes :mrgreen:
  3. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    SML S & P Lmbr co shk rf.jpg roofing

    probably builders in scale V grove roofing. That's what I'm used to ( it is what is on my house - the real stuff, builders in scale was too expensive, and I can't get Ho scale roofing nails anywhere.)

    years ago I bough a massive supply for my sawmill, and have been raiding it ever since, I'll need to buy more if I ever go back to work on the sawmill roof, The car shops roof needs attention too, it is cardboard painted flat black. Just across the turntable from the engine house, it will need attention if the Engine house approaches completion

    I have done wooden shake roofing, with micro tiny shakes cut on my 4 in. table saw and split with a single edge. That's what I have on the Strong and Perry Lumber Co, up in the Gizzard. It looks really good, but would be highly unlikely on a building dedicated to housing wood and coal burning locomotives. It would be too much of a fire hazard.

    I have enclosed a photo of that building. One thing about it's red oak shingles, is they hold dust like crazy. I need to clean this roof thoroughly, and shoot it with some kind of clear coat to see if that helps . The problem is, I built this building more than 32 years ago, and I'm afraid that cleaning it thoroughly might cause damage. This was the second or third model I built up plank on frame.

    Bill Nelson
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2015
  4. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    SML #21 @ hm.jpg SML CC EH wls clpd on..jpg SML tmp wl clp.jpg I got the frame mostly squared, or as close as it is going to get. as I was messing with the frame the walls kept falling off the foundation, so i stuck some spikes in the floor that stick out and catch the bottom of the walls.

    When the walls are planked the blanks will cover the floor, an the occasional 55 gallon drum or stack of lumber will keep the inside of the walls in.

    I made little clips out of stove wire, like I use to twist up tree armatures to hook the top of the walls to the frame, so I don't have to have lumber propping up the walls anymore

    Bill Nelson
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2015
  5. ytter_man

    ytter_man Member

    Bill, to clean those cedar shake roofs of dust try some canned air stuff you get at computer/electronic supply places. Or regular compressed air at low PSI. Blow straight down on the roof very gently and it should clean out nicely, even comes with a little straw like WD40 to get in the fine areas.

    BONUS: Tip the can upside down and spray, instantly freeze anything almost like liquid nitrogen!

  6. steamhead

    steamhead Active Member

    WoW...!! I haven't been around in a while (Life got in the way...:cry:), but I couldn't have picked a better thread to latch on to....I'm in the process of planning a scratchbuilt roundhouse, and I just found out how it's done..!! Saved me a lot of head-scratching.....wall1
    That's some terrific work..!! :thumb:

    Looking forward to more progress on this job...:rolleyes:

    P.D. I have been wondering where I might get some hinges for doors...Anybody know a place I can find them..??
  7. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    I'm assuming you want working hinges for engine house doors. Grant line has some but they are very fragile. I'm going to scratchbuild some using some strip brass for the strap. with tiny brass or copper tube soldered to it. with a tiny wire stuck in the wall with a nintey degree bend in it so the tube portion of the hinge can ride in it, similar to a 1:1 farm gate. I will detail this as I get to it, possibly before I get to it, as my engine shops doors need hanging too, and there is only one pair of those. and not six pair, like there is on the Crooked Creek Engine house.

    The principle is similar to what I used on the roof wing hinges on the Surry Parker project, so review the your unique logging and mining equipment thread for a preview, if you can't wait.

    Glad you like it. I built the floor, inspection pits, and foam core mock up walls six or seven years ago; made foam core mock up for the walls, and wasn't happy with them. My original intention was to do a plank on foam core model like my sawmill, but I decided to go for it.

    Bill Nelson
  8. Doctor G

    Doctor G Active Member

    Love the Interior shots

    Great interior shots Bill. My fav. is the one with the DGCC&W locomotive in the house.

    As you know my favorite perspective of these neat models is a HO little people eye level. Having a removeable wall will allow some pretty neat shots of your beautiful engine house and the well detailed interior to come.
    Doc Tomaussie
  9. Sawdust

    Sawdust Member

    Coming along nicely Bill. I have used spray polyurethane on bare wood before with good results to make it easy to dust.
  10. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

  11. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    SML RR rm dr.jpg SML swdst prductn.jpg been busy but trying to move some on the engine house

    I have had very little RR time, as I have been working on my ,on floor bathroom, a back porch converted to a bathroom back in the 30s or 40's.

    the wall and most of the floor, all of the plumbing, and most of the wiring had to go, so it has been akin to new construction, except working with a space that has no level, plumb, or square surfaces.

    the foundation has been rebuilt, along with the floor (my vinyl isn't here yet, nor is a custom ordered window ) the floor is insulated and the outside wall in insulated, and I'm getting close to having the ceiling insulated, but it has ate most of my time.

    Sawdust's work has been inspiring me, so in my breaks I have been playing with the saw, trying to find the right wood for the Crooked creek engine house.

    earlier this year, when I was working on the back hall, I built a door to the RR room out of some nice, super thin tongue and grove pine, to replace a cheap plastic folding door, which couldn't keep a determined cat out of the RR room. the leftovers cut well, and it looks like these may be my planks.

    I'm going back to work on the bathroom, getting ready for the ceiling (the toilet and tub are in and working, I'm putting in a pedestal sink, so I want the vinyl floor down before I do that. I'll post more photos as I work on stuff when i come out of the cold to warm up.

    Bill Nelson
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2015
  12. Mountain Man

    Mountain Man Active Member

    What kind of a saw blade do you use?
  13. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    The accurizer kit I bought for this saw came with a thin carbide tipped blade, and that is what I still have on it.

    These dremil 4 inch table saws are belt driven, as well as being underpowered. one must feed it very slowly or it will stall, or throw the belt. I also have to keep the feed rate constant, or the blade will leave scorch marks on the wood.

    I have purchased a diamond blade, which looks just like a disk, but have not tried it yet. I'll try that next time I go insane, and try to do red oak shingles. this saw is not really stout enough to do red oak, although it is forced to from time to time.

    Bill Nelson
  14. Mountain Man

    Mountain Man Active Member

    I've used the little diamond blades to cut ceramic tile with. I have no idea how they would be for cutting wood.

    Sounds like your 4' was built to cut pretty light stuff, although oak is a challenge for any saw.
  15. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    SML bfr & aftr.jpg SML knckg f t fzz.jpg

    It is wimpy. It isn't produced any more (my guess is someone sued them, as it is worse than useless with the safety ****** on it, like most table saws). It is just powerful enough to destroy a finger or two. If I were to suddenly have an excess of cash, and income out the wazoo, I'd buy a Jim Bynes (sp?) saw like the model ship guys swear by.

    I have that stack of lumber on the kitchen table as I cook my Dinner. The wife isn't here or this would be a no-no. I'm rebuilding the bathroom, so sawdust in the kitchen can easily be blamed on house improvement.

    Before I paint this wood, I'm knocking off the fuzz. I have two fine sanding blocks, the kind made out of spongy rubber. I bush down on the blocks with one hand, while drawing the wood between the bocls with the other hand. in the photo the hand pushing down on the blocks is missing, as I didn't have a third hand to push the button on the camera.

    I also have a photo of two strips of wood one of which has made the trip through the sanding blocks, and one that has yet to do so.

    Bill Nelson
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2015
  16. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    SML painting  the  wood.jpg painting the wood

    I'm painting some of that wood with a spray paint can. I used to stain the wood with turpentine and oil paints. it took a lot of work and time, but got great results.

    using spray paint cans is much faster and easier, using several colors, it can be as convicing as the stain, and (if you have enough of the same color cans in stock) it is easier to match the colors with the spray paint.

    I still use stains sometimes for special projects , but I used spray paint on the Surry Parkers, and they look as good as anything I have ever done.

    Bill Nelson
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2015
  17. Sawdust

    Sawdust Member

    Don't you hate those fuzzies Bill. It looks like your getting rid of them pretty good. I get more with pine than I do with poplar. When my trim jobs are painted I use poplar so that's why I have so much of it to use. I know a guy that bought one of those cheapy Skil,Sears or Ryobi saws for less than a $100 & converted it like I did to a 5 1/2" blade with good results. I saw one of the Vintage Rockwells like I got for sale on Craigslist for $25. I did a remodel for a guy that had a hobby of cutting scaled lumber for ship builders all over the world. It was amazing how small he could cut, he used mostly exotic woods.It was also unreal what he paid for his equipment.:eek: I want to build a new storage rack for my supply because I have out grown the one I have. I am using 2" pvc pipe, it looks like a pipe organ! but it will be nicer to see what I have on hand.
  18. Sawdust

    Sawdust Member

    Bill that diamond blade won't cut wood because it is made to cut tiles or stone. It will burn the wood instead of cutting.
  19. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    SML pntd brds.jpg SML pntd brds.jpg SML pntd brds.jpg painted wood

    I got my wood painted and now it is time to try to get some of it installed on the back wall.
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2015
  20. Bill Nelson

    Bill Nelson Well-Known Member

    SML CC EH bk wl w brds.jpg back wall

    some boards on the back wall
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2015

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