Dry Transfer Tips Needed...

Discussion in 'FAQs' started by Lighthorseman, May 16, 2003.

  1. Lighthorseman

    Lighthorseman Active Member

    I've picked up a set of CDS Lettering dry transfers for an On30 boxcar. I'm familiar with the method of burnishing a set of these onto a car, but I'm still looking for any handy tips.

    The car is a wooden sided type. Might there be any specific problems that anyone has run into? Is it mostly a case of doing a really, really good and thorough job of burnishing? Should I start with a coat of glosscoat, or can it be put right onto the current matte-like paint?

    Any and all help greatly appreciated. Thanks.:)
  2. TomPM

    TomPM Another Fried Egg Fan


    I have done several wood sided cars in HO with CDS lettering dry transfers with success. The biggest tip I have for you is what you already stated you must do a very very good job of burnishing. I found that when I lift the transfer paper I do it slowly and in small steps, checking to make sure all the transfer has come off. If it has not I place it back down and burnish some more. Another point, be careful of accidentally transferring another part of the transfer. I have done that a time or two.

    I have used them on cars that have been sealed with Dullcoat or Gloss coat. I have had no problems with either. So the sealer does not seem to matter.

    For some reason I seem to have better luck with the dry transfers than with decals.

    Hope this helps.
  3. shaygetz

    shaygetz Active Member

    Dry transfers work well on flat finishs, that's why I love using them. The only other thing I do is is "stipple" and stroke with a stiff paint brush dipped in Dulcote. It drives the lettering further into the scored wood while providing a clear, flat seal on the transfer.

Share This Page