Dry Brushing

Discussion in 'FAQs' started by Woodie, Jul 31, 2002.

  1. Gary Pfeil

    Gary Pfeil Active Member

    Woodie, Usually dry brushing is to highlight the raised details. The crevises you mention may be better off with a wash, followed by dry brushing. I have to admit little knowledge of brush terminology, but for dry brushing I use a short bristled brush with fairly stiff bristles. Fairly vigorous scrubbing is called for. Not much paint should be coming off.

  2. Vic

    Vic Active Member

    Dry Brushing and Cracking Walnuts

    Three Cheers Woodie, Sounds like you're getting the technique down:)

    The size of the brush is just relative to what size area you are dry brushing. For example the brush I used in the pic of the tin roofs was about a 1/2 wide but somewhat stiff...it was a stencil brush that I bought at a craft store. Just keep on brushing and brushing until you get the desired effect and get the paint worked into the crevisis.

    About those stuck lids:mad: What a pain they are:eek: I use a nutcracker...one like you would use to crack walnuts with...to open them. It just fits the Floquil bottles and you can sure get a grip on the stuck lids with it.:) :)
  3. sumpter250

    sumpter250 multiscale modelbuilder

    Floquil stuck lids.
    I have gotten into the habit of wiping off the top of the bottle,
    and the inside of the lid. I haven't had a stuck lid since. When the clean lid is screwed down on the clean bottle, shake the paint to help seal the lid to keep the paint from drying out.
  4. Blake

    Blake Member

    Post Preview:
    I was reading the thread containing the subjects of dry brushing and military modelers. Just for some background, I started as an HO model railroader, switched to N scale and I also do 1/35 and 1/72 scale military modeling. I must say one thing here, I have applied more military modeling techniques to model railroading than the other way around. Part of that is due to the scale. There is much more detail in the larger scales to work with and no trackwork (only tank track-work), couplers, electrical or other functional stuff to worry about. The big difference is that military modelers tend to approach modeling more like an art project. The first suggestion I can make to all modelers is to purchase a book by a man named Shepard Paine called "Building Dioramas". This book completely changed my modeling perspective and has helped me to become a better modeler. The first diorama I built using his techniques took a 2nd place award at the first modeling contest that I ever entered. I have since taken 4 more awards. Military modelers use materials and techniques that I had never thought of using in 28 years of model railroading. If you are interested, I can give tips from time to time. Here is a link to my Website so you can see my work.


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