Discussion in 'Track Planning' started by Nazgul, Jan 31, 2006.
I could make a pretty nice palm if you flip the bush upside-down!
great job...did you happen to save the tag...if so, could you post what it says?
I'm going to look around at Michael's some more.
Remember that as they change out plants for the different seasons, we'll find more "inexpensive high quality alternatives to the high priced inferior looking scenic elements being foisted upon a trusting and unsuspecting model railroad public by THE ESTABLISHMENT"TM .......................sorry I had a '60's flashback
If WE all find enough and post pics and info, we can put it together as a reference (maybe in the "TIPS and TRICKS" forum).
I laughed my head off when I read that....good stuff!!
Steve, that little "yard goat" is looking good!!! Makes me want to take the airbrush to mine...
I've posted a track plan on my "Progress" ( I use the word loosely) thread. Check it out when you get a chance (Of course any one else with a strong stomach is most welcome too...)sign1
Keep up the good work...!!!:thumb:
By the way. It took me close to 2 months to build Central Valley's 150' Truss Bridge...!
Nahhh, I did the same thing you did first time through... I looked down on the floor and saw those pieces laying there. Upon looking around, I found the bigger bunches they belonged to. I did not buy any of the big bunches as I was pretty sure they were too big for N scale. I did look at the tag but all I can remember is something about, "Made with silk." In U.S. they were like $2.79 and almost $7 Canadian. If I make it back again, I will make sure to write down what the tag says.
Okay, my wife needed some more scrapbooking stickers so off to Michaels we went again. Found the plants and the tag says....
102250 Dept. 03
Silk Garden Shop
U.S. $3.99 (I was way off on that one)
CAN $6.69 (surprise, surprise, I was off on that one too)
Steve thought you might like that
As for michaels, you can get burned there too [flashback or no LOL] but if you go often they have sales of older stuff they can't sell and then you get a lot of bargains on plants and such. Not long ago I saw some things that could be tiny flower heads in O scale [2 or 3 inches] or large ones in HO. Could be painted or left as is.
After Christmas should be a great bargain day.
Also check out the lighting section. I am waitin for boxing day and if I have any money I want to get a string of led lights.
I figure by keeping them in the strings right, and then just extending the wire to the led [make sure to keep the polarity right] I can use them to light my buildings [when I make then] and leave the excess under the layout. DON'T remove the leds and use them seperately unless you know what resistor to use on each one. Also you will need to buy and install the resisitor. But if you just extend the wire it is already done for you.And adding a foot or two to the wire won't affect the light.
Just a thought. hope it helps.
As I work on the viaduct....with all of it's tiny parts....trying to hold them in place....trying to keep the glue from getting everywhere....trying to get my fingers unglued, I realize something.....................................
Ballasting wasn't really that badsign1
RE-Reminder...NEWS FLASH!!!...NEWS FLASH!!!...
NEWS FLASH!!! Steve!, ballasting DOES stink!!!...that is alltooth1 -Deano
You're right Deano!
What was I THINKING?
I kind of enjoy ballasting (except for the kink in the back). Leaving your fingerprints (and skin if using CA) all over your model is worse.
atleast you can proove it was yours..... lol
I'll have to agree with Deano and Steve on this one, I hate ballasting. It just takes soooo long to clear the ties.
On the other hand, it makes it look 100 x's better so it is all worth it in the end.:thumb:
Did the bridge ties help the visualizing/planning?
I actually enjoy ballasting hmmm. One more wierd thing about me eh? LOL
Yes, there is something satisfying about seeing the dynamic change from bare track to finely balasted and weathered rail and ties.
There's also something satisfying from receiving replies to your thread! Now get off your virtual duffs and take a look at the last few days of posting (many pictures...oooh!) over at my thread, then how 'bout writing an informed reply? Is that asking too much? I really am looking for your input here.
Btw, Steve, (since this is your thread) keep going...don't let a little CA on the fingers slow you down. DO let careful measuring and cutting slow you down. You'll be glad you did.
First of all, I want to thank Doctor Wayne for helping me out of a "sticky situation":thumb: and for taking the time to share your expertise. It made all the difference and got the frustration level down and the fun back up. Thank you!
The quality of the members here never ceases to amaze me
I've been doing the bridge towers and that led me to a realization I should have had long before: the track just isn't high enough for the 4 sided towers to look right (in my opinion) It is only 4.5-6.5 inches above the plywood. So I will be doing something like this:
This, to me, just looks right. I just love that pic....every time I see it I say to myself: If I could only do work like that!!!!!!!! Awesome!!
As to your question:
Yes...that was a great suggestion!:thumb: (that was "great suggestion #300" from you and I needed every one of them! So keep 'em coming!)
I believe I can get it to work with a little creative "engineering" and a couple of substitute girders from M.E.
This project is going to take quite a bit of time so the updates will probably be very sparse for a while.
Why yes.........yes it is.......................................................................
Hey Steve, Stephen here
Just an idea.
For the bridge, why not make the towers look more spindly, or smaller somehow?
Just an idea but it might work.
On my layout I plan to do the opposite. To emphasize the smallness of my locos [narrow gauge] I will make the timbers thicker by just a bit. If you make the towers thinner it may make your locos look more rugged and massive.
Make them narrower and the individual beams just a tad thinner each. The overall look may work for you.
Just an idea
Thank you for the great suggestion:thumb: . This is really my first model and I think trying to modify it in the way you suggest would be a bit much for me at this stage especially since the towers sides are completed already. I want to get this one under my belt....but there are more bridges in my future and I will be more comfortable down the road.......Please keep giving me your insights:thumb: :thumb:
My children's school and extracurricular activities are taking up a lot of my time right now (not to mention the holidays sneaking up). I also have a project or two that need to get finished so progress on the viaduct will continue........very slowly for a while, but I'll work on it when I can:cry: :thumb:
announce1 I hope everybody is checking out Galen's thread:thumb: :thumb:
Well it has been 2 weeks since I last posted (it feels much longer) and I have had very little time to work on the viaduct until the last few days. The kids are all playing sports and other projects besides my railroad have held my interest (is that possible?). All in all I think it was good to take a break from this layout and turn my attention to other things. It cleared my mind and allowed me to re-focus on the fun!
My 210' kit will not fit on the 20" curve without shortening the three 50' sections (I guess we all kinda knew that).
Problem 1...I want to span my river completely without having to land a support tower in the middle of it.
Problem 2...cutting the longer girder sections means either significantly shortening the length of the entire viaduct or buying more tower pieces (I have no modeling scraps to pilfer). I refuse to spend any more money on this bridge and I don't want to shorten it.
So in the end, I decided to go against prototype and curve the girders (please don't hurt me)sign1
I think the finished product will, at the very least, be aesthetically pleasing, if not "structurally sound". What I did do, was use the lateral and x-bracing that came with the kit, so from the bottom the viaduct would not loose it's intended substantial look. That of course meant a lot of cutting and fitting.:cry: I have assembled the girder sections and the tower sections..I just need to attach them to each other and of course glue the track down later and paint.
So here's some pics:
I made a simple jig to help me keep the correct curve:
I want it known that we did not paint that back wall! It was like that when we moved in!
Well, there you have it...I think it will be all right.
I'll keep workin' on it!:thumb: :thumb:
STEVE!!!, GLAD YOU'VE POSTED!!!:thumb: WOW!!! that bridge came out FANTASTIC!!!:thumb: :thumb: :thumb: cant wait to see how this project ends up. OUTSTANDING job so far!:thumb: -Deano
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