Don't laugh too hard...It's my first attempt!

Nazgul

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Jan 22, 2006
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This is what I was thinking:
View attachment 31599

wrong era perhaps but curved girders are done and make up about 25% of all new girder bridges being built...according to these people:

http://www.lusas.com/products/information/curved_girder_analysis.html

Also a quick google of model railroad bridges comes up with at least a few examples of people curving girder bridges.....
Here's one: http://www.nutmegdivision.com/Pics_Bettinger.htm (second pic down)

I don't think it's going to really hurt the integrity of the layout because....we all know There isn't much that I've done here that "passes the smell test"sign1 sign1
 

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sumpter250

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Steve,
Great picture! I hope your bridge turns out to be just as spectacular. Notice, in the picture that from support to support, the girders are in fact, straight. The viaduct kit you have is designed for a larger radius than you want to build, so......you may need one or two more kits, so you can shorten each section, in order to make the tighter curve.
Most computer drawing programs accomplish curves in the same manner, ie. the tighter the curve, the shorter the line segment. (edit) using shorter girders accomplishes the tighter curve, AND allows you to use all the detail in the kit.
Pete
 

ocalicreek

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Actually...I didn't say there weren't curved girders, just that I'd never seen one. The Jing Peng Pass and its many bridges and loops is a spectacular piece of railroading, true. I'd also suggest you look at 'the book' (Model Railroading with John Allen) if you can get it for a good price at his many bridges. This man was the master of bridge-bashing, to be sure.

Galen
 

green_elite_cab

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actually, most real bridges don't curve their girders. its bad for business, and doesn't look or work right. What you'll want are shorter spans. the general rul of thum is the rails always overlap the "inner" girder of the curve.
 

cnw1961

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Steve, I made a scale drawing that might help you to decide how to construct your bridge. From looking at the pics of this viaduct, I assume that it consists of seven sections. That means each section is 4,280" long. I don’t know the length of the ties of the micro engineerig bridge track, so I made them .160" longer (1,340") in my drawing than Atlas flextrack. The height of the bridge sections in the drawing is 1.180". If my assumptions are wrong, give me the right measurements if this drawing is of any help to you.

This picture shows what it looks like if you place the seven sections along a curve with a radius of 20".

View attachment 31625

The second pic gives a closer view.

View attachment 31626

It might be possible to build the viaduct for a 20" curve if you shorten the girders on the inside.

BTW, have a look at this site, it might give some tips on the assembly of the viaduct: http://cid.railfan.net/scratch_big_bridge.html .
 

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ocalicreek

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Steve,

I'd cut the inner girders to fit while leaving the outer girders intact. Not sure how this will affect the inner bracing, but using a strip of wood beneath the track could be a simple solution...just paint the wood black to hide it. But I'd try and stick with the kit componants as much as possible (or as much as you're willing to tolerate any frustration from kitbashing) Hang in there...I'm sure you'll do a great job, all that matters is that you're happy with the finished product, (and it meets NMRA standards and/or reccomended practices, otherwise the MR police will be knocking on your door, mister!)

Just a few thoughts. Say, have you given much more thought to the yard area?

Galen
 

Nazgul

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Jan 22, 2006
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Gus
Thank you for the kind words about my weathering job on the 0-8-0
As far as the extra parts go:
If you don't use those "extra" parts, I'm sure I can put them to good use.
If my problems persist...You may be getting the entire bridge!sign1

Kurt Thanks for taking the time to put that together for me...it has helped to make it clearer for me:thumb:
I'm also going to take Galen's advice and wait for the bridge track to arrive and see if it helps me with decisions.

Well, I'd like to thank everyone for giving me your input and advice concerning the viaduct. I will "go out on a limb" and say that everybody is in favor of keeping the girders straight and trying to keep it as prototypical as possible. After wrestling with it in my mind, I agree, and that is the way it will be done.:thumb:

I want to thank all of you for giving me useful feedback and honest opinions:thumb: :thumb: Keeps me from taking the easy way out:D
Thank you
 

Nazgul

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Jan 22, 2006
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Hi Guys
The bridge track arrived today so I can finally get started on the viaduct. In the meantime I have taken the flashing off a lot of the pieces and sanded where necessary.

I have also re-lettered the 0-8-0 (thankyou nameless faceless person;) ). and here are a few pics:
Scenery 252 small.jpg

Scenery 253 small.jpg

Scenery 256 small.jpg

Scenery 258 small.jpg


Some day I'll get a better camera so you can see the letters!sign1
That decaling was a tough chore for my big ol' clumsy mitts...from now on, I only buy it, if it's in the right road-name!!!!!!
 

ocalicreek

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Fine job on the lettering...don't be too discouraged. At least you know if you need to, from this point on, you can decal anything you like! One more skill in your modeler's toolbox. Hang in there and take your time with the bridge. We're all waiting to see how awesome and fantastic it's going to be...no pressure!

Galen
 

viperman

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Mar 13, 2006
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I can read it just fine, Northern Pacific 1172. Looks good to me. I picked up decaling a long time ago, thanks to building many 1:25 plastic model kits. I love building cars, but never do anymore. Most of that hobby does correspond to model railroading. The assembling, scratch building, painting, decaling, etc

I agree with Galen, in that we are all looking forward to seeing the progress on the bridge.
 

UP SD40-2

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Steve!:wave:, ABSOLUTELY FANTASTIC JOB ON THE ENGINE!!!:thumb: :thumb: :thumb: i gotta tell you, the landscape that you took the pics of it in looks OUTSTANDING TOO!!!:thumb:. I TOO, cant wait to see how the bridge comes out!;):D. EVERYTHING YOU have done so far has been jobs WELL DONE!!!:thumb::thumb::thumb: :D -Deano
 

cnw1961

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Steve, your steamer looks great. Can’t see anything wrong with the lettering – it looks perfect. Hope the lettering on my Mike will look as good as yours when I get those :curse: :curse: decals some day. Which decals did you use for your loco?

Galen and Viperman are right, we all shiver with anticipation while we are waiting to see your progress on the viaduct.
 

Nazgul

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Thank you everybody:thumb:

Kurt
I used Microscale decals...they worked great..but the size:eek: was a killer on these poor old eyes:curse:

I don't want you guys to be expecting too much with the viaduct model...

This is the last model I put together:
http://thegalleryofmonstertoys.com/60swing/aurorafrankenstein.html

It had about 6 pieces total....putting that thing together was the worst 5 months of my life! using that as a guide, I should be finished with the viaduct.............you do the mathtooth1
 

TrainNut

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Sep 15, 2004
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Nazgul said:
But all was not lost. I happened to spy this little beauty:
View attachment 30989
And what do you know...It's already green! There was no plant name on the tag, but it said:
Mediterranean Garden
D03 328185
US $4.99
CAN $8.49
Hey, I was in Michaels again tonight and found some more little plants. They are kind of big for N scale but I think they could pass for some Agaves or Yuccas for you HO'ers.
 

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ocalicreek

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They are kind of big for N scale but I think they could pass for some Agaves or Yuccas for you HO'ers.

Yes, and also much Florida vegetation (or other parts of the SE and SW) in the palm family. The one on the left looks like dragon palm or ponytail palm, with some touch up on the trunks, of course.

Galen