Very clean build and looking great to.
love the port holes. Good idea to use the brass ringlets, a good reason for starting another ship when this one is done to use them all up.
Look forward to more photos
Regards
Rob
DNs USS Oregon?
- Thread starter Sticky Fingers
- Start date
Very clean build and looking great to.
love the port holes. Good idea to use the brass ringlets, a good reason for starting another ship when this one is done to use them all up.
Look forward to more photos
Regards
Rob
cardfan said:Oh, and Mark, I didn't mean to hijack your thread...
Glen
No I don't think you have hijacked anything. From my experience on the net a thread is a child that achieves instant adulthood and goes its own way almost imediately or dies from infant mortality. Feel free to run with this all you want. Besides I haven't gotten my copy from Roman yet (expect it Sat or Mon in the mail) and plan on using you as a source guide. Looks good so far
Thank you A.J.,
Lots of new Xacto blades. I change the blade whenever I feel a drag on the cut. As for the color, I have several colors of gray fine point markers, and for the red sections of hull plating the closest match was actually a reddish orange pen. I am using CA to make most of the connections on the deck sides. This even seems to help hide the seams as I go.
Glen
Lots of new Xacto blades. I change the blade whenever I feel a drag on the cut. As for the color, I have several colors of gray fine point markers, and for the red sections of hull plating the closest match was actually a reddish orange pen. I am using CA to make most of the connections on the deck sides. This even seems to help hide the seams as I go.
Glen
I try to cut on the line or as close as possible. At my advanced age (the milage not years) a set of magnifying glasses helps.
Fortunately paper seems to be just the thing for this stuff. I can go along the seam and "tack weld" one part to another, then go back and finish the seam. I am using an applicator made from a sewing needle for more control. I have broken a few while cleaning them so I just grind of the tip of the eye on a new needle to make a new one.
Glen
The Oregon docked in the mail box today and the first thing I have to do is print the instructions out.
Glen,
What an exceptionally clean and precise build! I only hope that I might be able to emulate that kind of workmanship. I have a model on the go now but I wont say what it is or show any pics until I'm confident it won't end up being used to light fire crackers on Canada Day
Ron
What an exceptionally clean and precise build! I only hope that I might be able to emulate that kind of workmanship. I have a model on the go now but I wont say what it is or show any pics until I'm confident it won't end up being used to light fire crackers on Canada Day
Ron
Glen
makes me want to start mine again, but it still wouldn't be that crisply built.
Beautiful job
barry
Ron
I remeber what you were building come on lets have a look then (mind you it would be to much for me I think)
barry
makes me want to start mine again, but it still wouldn't be that crisply built.
Beautiful job
barry
Ron
I remeber what you were building come on lets have a look then (mind you it would be to much for me I think)
barry
After looking over the instructions and the various other pages I ran off some monocromatic prints of the hull frames, deck and plating parts for the test build. On question for you gentleman who have been down this road before. On the waterline plates the location lines for the bulkhead frames are marked clearly enough but just what side do the frames go to. Towards the bow, the stern or centered? My previous build experience with Roman's kits are the FW190 and the framing parts on that are readily understandable. But it will be couple of days before I can start cutting out the frames as I want the spray adhesive to cure completely and the weekend looks busy (wedding, cancer benefit on top of having to work)
Thanks. Like I said, it will be abusy weekend plus my daughter is getting married in about three weeks. I need some time to myself it is getting rather much lately. :? :? :? :? :? :? :? :? :? :? :?
I agree with the others, Oregon's looking fantastic, Glen!
I've been toying with an idea for Oslabya since I read Ron's thread on getting a good tight fit for the parts. I noticed that the black hull sides of Oslabya would seem to overlap the red lower hull if you glued it onto the tabs. Instead of gluing the hull sides to the tabs of the red lower hull plates, what do you think of the feasibility/practicality of cutting off the tabs and using a joining strip made out of 20 lb paper? To tricky to even bother?
Also, I was curious as to what type of card you used for the hull plates as there doesn't seem to be any sign of sagging anywhere!
AJ
I've been toying with an idea for Oslabya since I read Ron's thread on getting a good tight fit for the parts. I noticed that the black hull sides of Oslabya would seem to overlap the red lower hull if you glued it onto the tabs. Instead of gluing the hull sides to the tabs of the red lower hull plates, what do you think of the feasibility/practicality of cutting off the tabs and using a joining strip made out of 20 lb paper? To tricky to even bother?
Also, I was curious as to what type of card you used for the hull plates as there doesn't seem to be any sign of sagging anywhere!
AJ
Thank you everyone! I really appreciate the kind words. I am really enjoying the build the second time around.
AJ, I printed the model out on 110lb index for the hull plates and 20lb for the understrips. The design is excellent and the hull plates are very well supported.
I was looking at the pictures of the Oslabya and the method of building seems different than on Oregon. The hull plating is complete strips that cover from waterline to waterline, running from left to right. The area above the waterline is then added, running fore to aft, to finish off the sides. This hides any unevenness in the side plates. From what I can see the Oslabya looks to be running straight down the sides.
Having said that I do like the idea of the backing strips. If you color the edges of the strips on the side and perhaps run a stripe down the connector strip the joint would be very tight and made the sides more rigid. The more I work on this ship the more comfortable I am getting at experimenting with new methods.
Glen
AJ, I printed the model out on 110lb index for the hull plates and 20lb for the understrips. The design is excellent and the hull plates are very well supported.
I was looking at the pictures of the Oslabya and the method of building seems different than on Oregon. The hull plating is complete strips that cover from waterline to waterline, running from left to right. The area above the waterline is then added, running fore to aft, to finish off the sides. This hides any unevenness in the side plates. From what I can see the Oslabya looks to be running straight down the sides.
Having said that I do like the idea of the backing strips. If you color the edges of the strips on the side and perhaps run a stripe down the connector strip the joint would be very tight and made the sides more rigid. The more I work on this ship the more comfortable I am getting at experimenting with new methods.
Glen
Alas the Oregon did not survive first contact. Just started laying the keel and spine when disaster struck. Had the spine all centered up and square when the glue bit me in the rear end. For a reason known but to the guy upstairs I reached for the CA to glue the spline in place. Wound up bonding the keel to the counter top on the desk and the spine and keel to the aluminum angle. :x :x :x :x :x :x Oh well I guess I'll have to chalk it up to experience and start over. The Aluminum Angle is available in home centers in the US. About $4 for a three foot stip for 1" x 1". Makes it nice and easy to keep things straight and square. Just don't gklue it to the parts
Pic in the album
Pic in the album