Discussion in 'Science Fiction & Fantasy' started by Vortex_4200, Dec 9, 2008.

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  1. frontiernx01

    frontiernx01 New Member

    Ahhh pod has been found! Thanks, Nothing! And UHU02! Thanks to you too! Terrific work!
  2. uhu02

    uhu02 Active Member

  3. CardStalker

    CardStalker Member

    You are so very kind uhu02. We thank you very much.
  4. Red

    Red Member


    I did notice that the H.G. Wells Time Machine is no longer available. :cry:

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  5. Progress of sorts

    I've hopped around on this. I'm going slowly and I'd like show some progress. I'm being helped in part by doing some at work during lunch and it's interested several colleagues in the engineering department where I work so I am determined to finish it.

    All done in 80gm as I am very cheap.

    Spine. The nuts are very fiddly and I have about a 1 in 3 success rate. To keep me going I've done other bits whilst slowly increasing the spine content - a bit like a paper kebab.

    The linking cones. Should they line up? I don't seem to get the buttress attachment points to line up (I'm making these terms up as I go along). I rest each tank set on a level surface so they all should be level but they are difficult to keep square. - maybe they should be set up on a template for their positions and then the spine attached in a single pass The two part tank sent which don't directly attach to the middle nut of the three could be braced with a piece of paper stuck on the nut surface and joins the two together

    Rear engine. The engine bells work OK when you edge glue the the bell ends together but I didn't get the seams all the right way. The engine attchemnt tubes where tightly rolled tubes and the engines are push fitted. I didn't do the cut outs under the raised "blisters" and I think it works OK but I've come a bit unstuck with the attachment fairing. The model is definately missing a tab along the top edge of the engine box here. I added one on but the very thin front face behind the fairing is not working for me. I'm doing a new face stuck on some thick card with tabs on the inside of the fairing rim which hopefully will make a better attachment point.

    The pod shield and motors went OK but should I have put the motor tubes through the shield to level them? Anyway I hope the aft shield will cover thse OK.

    The front pod - after having fit difficulties with the pod motor block and the top half of the pod I tried back-tabbing the bottom half. The fit improved but the surface ended up more mottled from the extra glue. The next strip on the top pod has the cabin windows. I've pre-cut the window but I think that was a mistake, the lack of tabs means the recessed cabin windows have to be in-place first - perhaps a better option would have been to back tab the strip,attach, cut out the window and then attach the cabin window.

    Oh well if it doesn 't work I only have to do the top pod again. I'm hoping the main assemblies will push fit so I can re-do parts later.

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  6. jparenti

    jparenti Member

    You're doing well so far Plastic Bonsai. Have you still been at it?
    I just discovered that Uhu had released this model yesterday, and I've already begun mine. :D
    I'm very disappointed that I missed the centrifuge model a few months ago. Maybe Uhu will release it again. Even if it doesn't go inside the model, it may make a nice addition to a display (along with the EVA Pod).
  7. Yes still on with it. The rear block got crumpled so re-doing it in thin-card so much better than 80gm for this and other parts of the model. And I'm using Uhu glue for the first time - it really works for me - not as wet as PVA. The fumes may be a bit dodgy but as I've been doing the other sorts of models for years before solvent abuse was discovered I reckon I'm pretty hardened

    The front sphere - should be better in thin card and rear tabbing. The slot for the cabin windows will be a problem... and OK yes I still haven't done the spine.

    I think Sir Uhu is doing the centrifuge again and as Gearz is up for doing the Leonov we should have quite a model at the end.

    When complete I will pose with it weight-lifter style - as indeed all who finish it should do. It is a feat of paper-engineering and building.
  8. jparenti

    jparenti Member

    I've only got nine spine nuts left to go... then it's on to the fuel pods. I think I may have to take a break in the middle of that and move on to the command module and rear block.
    I certainly hope the centrifuge will become available again. I'm still kicking myself for missing that. :)

    ARMORMAN Guest

    I don't believe he ever released it....
  10. Vortex_4200

    Vortex_4200 Member

    I agree with armorman... I do not recall him ever releasing the centrifuge parts, I cannot recall why not though...
  11. He lost the data in a computer crash but I think that he may be resurecting it.
  12. Millenniumfalsehood

    Millenniumfalsehood Active Member

    I hope so, it was very promising.

    uhu02, you make some of the most beautifully-designed models out there, and I can't wait to start in on your Discovery!

  13. Gearz

    Gearz Member

    Wow what a model !

    Excellent work so far cousins :thumb:

  14. jparenti

    jparenti Member

    Almost completed spine. There's only a few of the brackets that straddle the cone pairs left to do. I'll be on to the next stage soon.
    I printed at 89% due to having access to only 8.5 X 11" cardstock. A 5/16" dowel is suitable, but leaves an ugly gap if you use paper. Using cardstock may help out in that department. I'll just cover the gap with more paper from a second parts sheet to match the color. :thumb:

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  15. Retired_for_now

    Retired_for_now New Guy

    Wrap the dowel in layer(s) of paper to adjust diameter? Or is it an end-gap?
  16. jparenti

    jparenti Member

    The gap is lengthwise, as seen below. The kit has parts to wrap the dowel in, but if you use the size of dowel I did, you have a gap. An unfortunate bit of ugliness, but easy enough to cover up to make it unnoticeable.
    The diameter of the rod is unavoidable for me -- it's the only one that wouldn't be too small, which would be completely unworkable. Better too large than too small.

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  17. Retired_for_now

    Retired_for_now New Guy

    At the risk of kicking off my OCD - you can spin the dowel in a drill (or a lathe, but hurricane Ivan ate my last lathe) and carefully thin it with sandpaper. Support the loose end lightly in a "V" cut in some scrap wood and clamped to a bench. Need to work with a longer-than-needed dowel as the drill chuck will bugger the end.

    I know, a little late for that now. Sorry.

  18. jparenti

    jparenti Member

    You know, it never occurred to me to try that. Figures. :D
    I have other models I need mid-sized dowel for, so that will actually help in the future. I was at least lucky that the spine nuts fit the size I used. Trying to keep them from spinning (alternately, trying to force them on a dowel that was too big) would have made a difficult job worse.
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