Digitals Yamato

jrts

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Mar 12, 2004
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Hi all

Thanks for all the kind words guys.

Jim

Yes I know what goes on the white marks, I just can't find it on the model pages as it's not shown on the build instructions. It's just me being bumb I think. I've got a full set of design drawings for both the 1941 and 43 versions and they show its a small deck fitting.

No prob's it will all work out in the end

Regards

Rob
 

jrts

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Mar 12, 2004
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Hi all back again :lol:

Just some touch up work and the two small bits either side of C gun to do then on to the bows. I have added some small bits to the bridge and started the paint work.

More tomorrow

Regards

Rob
 

barry

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Jan 28, 2004
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Rob

Very neat and clean thin paper ? what weight

I had used 80 gsm paper on the gun barrels I did notice again, while drooling over Fuso that Roman puts a big lead in to the barrels, which I think is better than going for an impossible joint I might try doing that on Savage

barry
 

Jim Krauzlis

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Sep 26, 2005
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Great job on the mast, Rob!
How did you get the taper?
Barry, after trying without success to have the masts on Victory made like the kit designer's intended/meant, I reverted to just printing them out of normal bond (24# or so) and cut an extra bit along the length to give me a bit of a start in rolling. I then would unwind the tube a bit, apply glue to the joint and the re-roll to finish. Throughout the process I needed to have something like thin wire in the core to work the roll around, or else my gorilla finders tended to flaten everything out.
Really looking great, Rob, just great!
And from the distance you hear the cry for "More Photos"! :lol:
Jim
 

jrts

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Mar 12, 2004
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Hi Barry

I used a 90 gsm quality laser paper. When I roll anything small I bend the lead edge very tight so as not to have a flat edge in the roll, I find that this is what makes rolling hard for me.
The edge always makes an oval shape to anything I roll if I don't do this first.

Hope this helps!!

Regards

Rob
 

jrts

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Mar 12, 2004
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Hi Jim

All I do is bend the lead edge and over roll it to shape, glue and roll in my fingers until the joint lines meet and work my way up the mast like this.
I only use the white resin based PVA glue shown in with my tool photos.

I don't know if will work with other glues, the PVA gives me a bit of time before it goes off to move the bits around.

Regards

Rob

PS What sort of glues are you using for CONNY :wink:
 

Jim Krauzlis

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Sep 26, 2005
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Thanks, Rob!
I use only PVA glue as well. The CA tends to set too quick and leaves a shine I don't like. Just not easy to work with for me. I might try it on the rigging, however, but I haven't decided that yet.
Do you cut the part out with a little extra to get the roll started?
Jim
 

jrts

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Mar 12, 2004
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Hi Jim

Their will be loads out there who have another way to do rolls, but this is how I do them!!

First I reduce the tab, the reason I do this is that the more material you have the tighter the roll has to be. This makes the roll harder to do.

The second photo shows the difference between two barrels rolled the same way and for the same time, the left one still shows some elasticity in the papers memory, the right is much tighter.

The third photo shows how I glue them, narrow end first.
On smaller items I do roll them around a pin, but most I do in my fingers.

Next
 

jrts

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Mar 12, 2004
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Next

If I find it hard to roll the part in my hands, I will roll it on a table. BUT YOU must remember with a cone shape to let it roll in an arc or the joint won't match and the barrel will come out straight and not conical.

Try it, it works for me!!!

Hope this helps

Regards Rob
 

jrts

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Mar 12, 2004
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St Helehs, England
Hi all

A few more bits added

Search lights head are only on a dry fit and need to be lined up right before final fit.

Some parts added to the bridge, it's slowly comeing together just few million small bits to go :roll:

More tomorrow

Regards

Rob