Decaling Question

Discussion in 'Scratchin' & Bashin'' started by Glen Haasdyk, Jun 7, 2004.

  1. Glen Haasdyk

    Glen Haasdyk Active Member

    Okay, I've painted my CNR GP-7s with the green, next is the decaling. I'm using Microscale decals and I've been told that it is best to glosscote the engines first before decaling (hides decal film) Now my question is this: How long do I wait for the glosscote to dry before decaling? These engines are finaly nearing completion and I'll post pictures of the finished projects when I do.
  2. Fred_M

    Fred_M Guest

    Until they quit smelling of fresh paint, 2 to 3 days is normal. FRED
  3. pdt

    pdt Member

    I don't know how much experience you have with Microscale decals, so let me suggest if you haven't already done so, please read the directions carefully before proceeding.

    I grew up building aircraft models and learned decaling from Revell and Hasegawa kits. When I started using Microscale decals, I couldn't understand why everyone seemed to think they were so great. I always had issues with bubbles, silvering and decals that would distort when I applied Micro Sol (Microscale's decal solvent). I had been applying decals for years on all those aircraft kits without any issues (my dad and uncle always made me do their decals for them!), so I never suspected the problem was with me.

    I finally read the directions when I decided to paint half a dozen BNSF locomotives hoping to get some ideas on how to handle all the striping. That's when I realized my entire method, while correct for Revell and Hasegawa kits, was totally wrong for Microscale decals.

    I sincerely hope everything goes well for you in this project. Believe me, I know exactly how frustrating it can be to get a project all the way to this stage without making any compromises or errors only to have the decals ruin the job. Those directions will make a world of difference if you're like me and learned decaling the 'wrong' way (for Microscale decals, anyway).
  4. Vic

    Vic Active Member

    Any MRR decal is best applied to a semi gloss or gloss finish. However this does not hide the decal shine. It allows the decal to adhere more tightly to the surface and helps eliminate air bubbles and "frosting" of the decal carrier (the clear part of the decal).

    The liberal use of decal solvent is required to get the decal to "snuggle down" over the cast on details of the engine body. After the decal is set and dry its necessary to coat the entire model with a flat finish to hide the decal shine and to make an overall uniform finish on the model.

    Contrary to the instructions on many decal sets its not a good idea to slide the decal off of its paper after soaking it. The trick to really good looking decals is to eleminate as much of the glue (gum arabic)as you can that holds the decal carrier to the paper. This can be done by soaking the decal until the carrier literally "floats" off of the paper. Then pick the decal up with a soft bristle brush and position it onto the surface to where it is to be applies. Be sure to wet this surface slightly so that you can move the decal around as necessary. After the decal is in position gently blot up any excess water with a piece of tissue and allow it to dry throughly.

    The decal solvent has to be applied very carefully. Try not to actually touch the decal. Start by liberally applying the solvent around the edges of the decal allowing capillary action to suck the solvent under the decal.

    Let the decal and the solvent dry. Then if any air bubbles are noted stick them with a needle and apply more solvent to the face of the decal. After this is dry you should have a decal that looks like its painted on but will have a shiney surface. You now apply the flat finish to the entire model to remove the shine and give it a uniform finish.
  5. Woodie

    Woodie Active Member

    Pretty much what I do, Vic. Specially putting them on to a wetted surface.

    To blot up the excess, I use a ripped sheet of loo paper, or absorbent paper towel, and just place the exposed fibres (where it's torn) close to the decal and it "sucks" up all the water, and even from under the decal.

    At this stage, the decal is quite close to the surface, but still allows for some adjustment, say, using a pin.

    Once firmly in the right place, then give it a little blot with the paper.
  6. Vic

    Vic Active Member

    Can We Get Rich ? ?

    Hey Woody, I just had a great idea......


    :D :D :D :D
  7. engineshop

    engineshop Member

    I spray my model with with 2, 3 coats of gloss, wait for a day and use Micro Set to place the decal. After everything is dry I use Micro Sol (3, 4 times) even on normal surface.


  8. Jodam

    Jodam Member


    There's some talented workers in the Engine Shops, Paint bay.
    :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:

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