Crichton from Buck Rogers

Revell-Fan

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I don't think it is possible. When the card is cut the silver coat is ruptured and reveals the white paper core inside. If you use the paper dust method described in the thread above you will only soften the edges, so-to-speak, but not hide the seam. In addition, the glue would make the surface dull which is not desired.

As for making "silver dust", this is not possible. I don't know what this coat is made of but it seems that it consists of real metal particles. These wouldn't connect to each other in the described process.

I'm thinking of using Revell acrylics instead, Aluminium should do (silver is not very user-friendly). It should be able to mask the seam a bit. ASC used a silver pen to paint his model, I think this is another possible way. Anyway, I kept this in mind when I was designing the model. If you take a look at the plans you will notice that nearly all seams are covered by other parts, the strips and rivets, exactly like on the real prop. Everything else which remains visible was visible on the real one, so this model should be exact to the seam, if you may say so. :cool::twisted::cool:

BTW, I'm assembling the arms right now and have got an idea for the Maximilian figure from "The Black Hole" which is on my list. The nail I used on Crichton's wrist could be used as a basis for the rotating blades on Max's arm (those used for killing the Palomino crew member). If it works you'll be able to actually let the blades spin..! :rolleyes:
 

Rogerio Silva

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That "seams" a good option!

RF

Well, I admit: when I posted my suggestion, I already had in my mind that it would not be possible, unless in a very hard, costly way. So, it wouldn't be cost-effective. I had that coming. :rolleyes:
Anyway, I wanted to know if you knew of a better, low-cost solution for the "problem", but I think your design already addressed it, so no need to worry about it.
I'm satisfied with your model and solution, but I'm so upset that I can't dedicate myself to models right now... :curse: Studying, you know? June 23rd is coming, and I've got to be prepared. :eek:
Thanks once agains for your answer!
 

Revell-Fan

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Don't worry, pal. It's good to see that you are around here and watching the build. :thumb:

So I take it that your finals are on June 23rd? I'm keeping my fingers crossed! I wish you the best of luck! :cool:
 

Rogerio Silva

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Friends will be friends...

Don't worry, pal. It's good to see that you are around here and watching the build. :thumb:

So I take it that your finals are on June 23rd? I'm keeping my fingers crossed! I wish you the best of luck! :cool:

Thanks, RF. I know you and many others here want me to succeed, and that's why I CAN'T LET YOU GUYS DOWN!
 

micahrogers

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for those that can not find silver card, you can get sheets of silver foil, the type uesd by plastic modelers, and laminate it to paper...
 

Rogerio Silva

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Good idea!

for those that can not find silver card, you can get sheets of silver foil, the type uesd by plastic modelers, and laminate it to paper...

Good idea, micah! :mrgreen: I had thought of doing something exactly like that, but I've found the paper here... :twisted: But keeping your idea in mind, I think one would have to be really careful not to wrinkle the foil, don't you agree? :confused: That being done, you'll have an even better, real-looking model in the end. :thumb: :thumb: :cool: :cool:
 

Revell-Fan

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Ohhhhh, I once tried that. It depends on the foil you use whether this procedure is successful or not. The foil I used rinkled when I was pre-shaping the part and another one actually corroded after glueing to the paper. I suggest to try it on a piece of scrap paper frst before making some unpleasant experinces.
 

micahrogers

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I was thinking more like a plastic modeler, as in you build a major sub assemble with plain cardstock, then foil the sub assemblies before final assembly.

I built up a Tamiya 1/48th scale F-86 and used foil to replicate the Natural metal finish. For that model I cut each panel from foil and applied every panel individually, it was something like 200 little odd shaped pieces of foil, all glued down with contact cement.
 

Revell-Fan

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I see. That would work fine. BTW, the corrosion I experienced may be caused by using the wrong glue or by sweaty fingers, I guess.
 

micahrogers

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usually it's the glue that causes corrosion, sweat and body oils can corrode some metals though.
 

Revell-Fan

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Two arms - and no legs...

Now then, let's get back to business. Here are the (shiny :cool: !) parts for the arms. Assembly was straight forward, however, I had to use thinner card for laminating because the silver card is a bit thicker than the usual card I used for the prototype.
 

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Revell-Fan

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I couldn't use a coated card cylinder for the elbow because the coat started to wrinkle. Instead I used a wooden rod which will be covered by a silver circle later.
 

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Revell-Fan

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Now it's rivet time. I punched about 60 small rivets out of obsolete card pieces and attached them to the silver strips. The original prop was designed in exactly the same manner to conceil the seamlines of the single parts of the chassis; instead of rivets they used real screws in order to hold everything together.
 

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Revell-Fan

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A few bigger rivets for the sides of the wooden rod.
 

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Revell-Fan

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Rivet bands around the shoulders.
 

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Rhaven Blaack

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They almost look like real rivets.
It looks like you are just about to the home stretch on this project!!!
This is GREAT WORK!!!
 
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