Cookie Cutter Method

andywyeth07

New Member
Just wanted to know if any of you use the cookie cutting method. I'm interested in using it but need to know a little more about it. If anyone has any pictures of it i would be glad to look at them..
 

Chanda

New Member
Her is a photo of a 3' X 6' n gauge layout I built back in the 80's . It was built using the cookie cutter method.

Chandler
 

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Chanda

New Member
The cookie cutter is a sheet of plywood with the trackplan and road bed cut out with a sabre saw. When you are finised you can raise or lower the track bed to make different levels or grades. I used it on the N gauge layout as well as a HO gauge layout that I am building.
 

TruckLover

Mack CH613 & 53' Trailer
O ya, I didnt think of that. Plywood aint cheap either. Mine was $16.50 per sheet and that was pushing it for the thickness.

Could you reuse the plywood you cut out??
 

Chanda

New Member
The plywood that is left is where you put your scenery. I admit that plywood is out of sight but the same method can be used if you use MDF which is cheaper.
 

tverskaya

Member
I must say that cost is pretty much relative. I mean - how much rolling stock, trees, buildings, whatever do you buy for $16.50? And as you can use most of the wood you cut away it isn't a very bad deal at all. But that's my €0,02. :)
 

Chanda

New Member
I use crumpled newspaper and cardboard strips, then cover that with plaster cloth from "Woodland Scenics" After the plaster hardens you can use rock molds or plaster and make all kinds of scenery.

Chandler
 

Chanda

New Member
Here are 3 photos on my Tonapah and Silver Peak RR that I used crumpled news print and plaster cloth to make the scenery.

Chandler
 

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Amrap1

Member
Chnadler,

Would the cookie cutter approach work if you already have the plywood laid, but not nailed except on the edges? As apposed to using foam to raise the track?

Ed
 

doctorwayne

Active Member
Chanda said:
The plywood that is left is where you put your scenery. I admit that plywood is out of sight but the same method can be used if you use MDF which is cheaper.

I'd avoid MDF if possible, as even in 3/4" thickness it won't support its own weight over any distance without sagging. It is also difficult to drive track spikes into it, and it is very poor for holding either nails or screws. Depending on how you frame the support for the plywood, 1/2" or 5/8" should be adequate, and even if you use 3/4" plywood, sheathing grade, which is usually spruce, will work fine. There's no need to buy fir ply, which is usually sold as "good one side", with the other side so-so, or good both sides, and with a price to match. For our needs, sheathing plywood, which has both sides unsanded, is good enough strength-wise, and if you're not nuts about its appearance, it's an added incentive to get your scenery started.:D

Wayne
 
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