Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by Arjun, Nov 29, 2006.

  1. Arjun

    Arjun Member

    In every model I have made, I've tried out a different technique of colouring it, and I have yet to find the right method.
    1. My testing models (downloaded from a Japanese site, which are also capable of flying) used nearly-dry poster paint. The cardpaper was not blank, had a smooth surface and I painted over it. The paint wasn't thick enough to give the best finish, looked transparent and streaky.
    2. For more of the flying airplane models downloaded from the Japanese site, I then decided to use all coloured cardpaper available. There wasn't enough plain, coloured cardpaper around. To make decals or paint jobs, I cut coloured (glaze) paper and stuck it. Surprisingly the finish was neat. However, this paper doesn't come in too many shades.
    3. For my Spitfire/Hurricane and the Jaguar, I used thick felt markers and the finish was initially quite good, but the paint is now fading. By far, the best paint jobs at hand. However, with age and adhesive (I use Pidilite's Fevicol), patches now appear. Again, felt pens don't come in too many colours or shades.
    4. The bull was painted with slightly less-dry poster paint (the same paint, but watered long before) and luckily, the surface of each part was a little rough. For its feet, I used black cardpaper.
    Now, I have some coloured, slightly rough paper, of reasonable thickness (more than printer paper) and excess printed cardpaper. I'm thinking of cutting around the coloured paper and sticking the cutout on the cardpaper. The model in mind is a military aircraft, so I have one of two options- cut around thin glaze paper and stick or directly apply the colour with felt pen or paint.

    QUESTIONS: How do I stick (or what) to get a very flat, uniform finish? How can I get a darker shade from available coloured paper? How can I prevent colour from fading and give my model some shine?
  2. Stev0

    Stev0 Active Member

    You could give light sprays of matte clear coat to the final model. depending on the type of cardstock used. Then once you have a thin coat covering the final model. You could mask off sections of the model where you do not want the paint to go and using a spraybomb/spraycan of non-enamel based paint, put down light even sprays of color.

    I prefer to paint with acrylics by brush... if there is a craft store around you can get large bottles of acrylic craft paint. PDF CATALOG
    I'm not sure if you have used acrylics but it's best that the surface you apply it to is as non-permeable as possible. So a surface like say coverstock would be ok for light coats where construction paper would collapse/deform should you try to apply water based paints to it. Like I said above, if you try to lighty lay down a layer of matte clear coat on the final model to seal it. You can apply paint to it. The trick is to not apply heavy layers to the model and let every layer you apply dry thoroughly before applying the next.

    I saw this in Walmart yesterday

    A mini airbrush compressor and airbrush kit. Using acrylics you could get a very consistant level of color laid down. The kit I saw was $60 but you could get the cheapo setup which is a simple airbrush setup with a resevoir and a can of compressed air. You can spray in light touches without a noisy compressor.
  3. Fishcarver

    Fishcarver Active Member

    Arjun: Because I rescale my armour models to 1:35, I have to paint them as well. See my build thread on the Luna M TEL here:

    I use liberal coats of matte spray fixative, available in art supply stores, to seal the card structure. I can then paint with acrylics, either by hand or with an airbrush, much like a plastic surface.

    Hope this helps!
  4. Stev0

    Stev0 Active Member

    Hey! Thats what I said!!!

    But not as longwinded. :(
  5. Fishcarver

    Fishcarver Active Member

  6. Stev0

    Stev0 Active Member

  7. Arjun

    Arjun Member

    That's a rather useful tip, but how can I paint the layout on the paper when it's flat, before cutting out the parts? That is more advisable if you're doing a paint job for a paper model of a Thunderbirds aircraft.
  8. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

    Arjun............. you have to use a graphics program like PhotoShop, Print Shop, Corel, GIMP, etc...........

    GIMP is shareware the others must be purchased. Re-coloring a model is not an easy thing. Especially if you have to line up words or graphics across multiple parts.

    That's where the hard work and pratice comes in.

    But once you get everything to line up......... it's a good thing!
  9. goney3

    goney3 Member

  10. Arjun

    Arjun Member

    Once I've got (or made) the kit on my PC and printed it, how do I ensure that the colour doesn't wear off? The dust that collects in my house is slightly corrosive, and has partially discoloured some of my felt-tip-coloured drawings and even my Hurricane is a shade lighter.
  11. Bowdenja

    Bowdenja Active Member

    The clear coat sprays that are used by artist will protect the model to some degree. Sunlight will still eventually make them fade.

    It sortta the nature of the beast.

  12. lizzienewell

    lizzienewell Member

    If you like markers go to an art supply store and look for some that come in the full range of colors. They might be archival grade as well. You might like the ones made by Pantone.
  13. wunwinglow

    wunwinglow Active Member

    Corrosive dust? I think it is more likely to be daylight fading the inks. Some inkjet inks will discolour completly in less than 6 months.......

  14. Arjun

    Arjun Member

    Corrosive dust...that's what sometimes collects in the suburbs here.

    Printed paper doesn't seem to lose its colour to all of this, but there's another problem with all paper, when I'm not using acrylic paint. When I'm gluing parts together, stains get left behind. I can cover them with acrylic paint, but I won't get the precision which Photoshop or even MSPaint can give me, when I'm printing symbols or script on the models.
  15. thewoodengraver

    thewoodengraver Active Member

    If your glue stains the paper, coat the entire paper with thinned glue or mod podge first. Spray with clear gloss after.

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