Coloring edges

Discussion in 'Tips, Tutorials & Tools' started by clarklfarris, Sep 6, 2006.

  1. clarklfarris

    clarklfarris Member

    I apologize in advance if this has been already asked and answered. How does everyone color the edges of their models? Also how does one color those embarassing white spots where things just don't line up like they are supposed to (or am I the only one that has that problem?)

    Thanks in advance,
  2. lizzienewell

    lizzienewell Member

    I've been using mostly Sharpie perminant markers. I color my edges from the back before assembly, and I color places underneith seams before putting the skin on.

  3. cgutzmer

    cgutzmer Guest

    been asked a few times - I know cause I asked it ;)

    Several techniques for coloring edges
    sharpie markers
    pencils of various shades of grey (work well enough for most circumstances)
    water color pencils
    water colors
    acrylic paints

    I use a black sharpie for most stuff. I have water color pencils but never quite get the ambition to get them out....

    When you join your model try to color the joiners about the same as the model it helps cover those embarassing oops - I know, I have done it many times. Color all edges and joiners BEFORE glueing.

    In the end it boils down to trying a few techniques and seeing what you like best and how much effort you want to put into the model. :)

    Cut on!
  4. clarklfarris

    clarklfarris Member

    Lizzienwell, cgutzmer,

    Thanks. I have just started doing most of the things that you both outlined. I have been using watercolor pens and coloring the edges and the portions of the join tabs before assembly. And you are right, it depends on the time you want to spend. I was just curious if you more experienced modellers had any techniques that I wasn't aware of.

    Thanks again,
  5. thewoodengraver

    thewoodengraver Active Member

    Only suggestion I have that wasn't mentioned (or I didn't see it) is print the model on colored cardstock. If the model is a shade of green, print on green cardstock...
  6. davelant

    davelant Member

    I started out using colored pencils for edge coloring, since one can cheaply buy a wide range of colors, but I was not always pleased with the way the pencils sometimes burnish the edge of the paper, and highlight unevenness in the edge.
    Then, I met a modeller who did beautiful edge coloring with his wife's "craft markers." He used the Tombow brand of felt-tipped, water-based art marker, available at art supply stores. Those work well for me, but they run about $3 per marker. The Copic brand of solvent-based markers penetrate the pigment too far into the body of the cardstock, discoloring the surface. For my next project, I'm going to try "Fibracolor" water-based felt markers. If you're in North America, a set of 100 distinct colors can be bought for less than $20 from "Hobby Lobby" stores. Fibracolor is made in Italy, so it must be available elsewhere, too.
  7. 46rob

    46rob Member

    I use marker pencils a lot--but sometimes they darken the edges too much. I've begun experimenting with colored chalk as an alternative. Results so far have been good.
  8. Jacobs40K

    Jacobs40K New Member

    Fibracolor markers


    I picked up that set of 100 markers and I have been using them on my Yamaha build. The colors work very well and I have had no matching problems.


  9. SCEtoAux

    SCEtoAux Member

    I use Prang colored pencils. A method that I have found to not burnish the edges is to dip the pencil point quickly in some water. It makes the color flow almost like water color paint. Use a quick dip so you don't pick up too much water.

    I use the following techniques help eliminate those white areas where parts don't line up. Before scoring and cutting the parts from the page, I color in an area on the glue tab close to the colored part of the piece. If some white still shows after folding and/or dry fitting I keep the tab folded then run the pencil over the edge. I also color in the area of joining strips where the two parts will butt together, again checking the coverage befor applying glue.

    I have found that the white areas that show after the parts have been glued are easier to mask using felt tipped pens or the wetted Prang pencils. The color seems to be able to stick to any glue residue that might be on the white part that is showing.
  10. shrike

    shrike Guest

    When I first started worrying about edges I bought a set of Crayola brand felt pens. - decent assortment of primary and secondary colours, but most important a medium neutral grey.
    After that I picked up a set of 60 cheap markers (Rose Art in the kids craft section). The pens don't look anything like the colours inside, but that's not that big a problem. Just check to see what's closest and if anything err on the side of too dark or muted.

    The grey Crayola gets the most use as it works with almost anything. Since joints (or aircraft at least) tend to follow panel lines, just the fact that the edge is darker will make it look better of most surfaces. Once it starts to dry up, it's still good got edges on lighter colours.

    One advantage to the hard felt tips is that they can be cut and trimmed. I have a number that have been cut into a wedge or chisel shape that allow me to get into corners and intricate cuts and to touch up anything I need too after assemble without worrying too much about colouring anything I don't want to.

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