Cheapo drifter

Discussion in 'RC Drifting and Setup' started by ash, Jun 1, 2004.

  1. ash

    ash Guest

    Hi there.

    I'm new to Drifting - and probably in a minority as I'm using a Ho Bao Hyper 10 EP (for those who don't know -graphite and alum' chassis) and a Novak GT7 / Trinity D5 8X2 motor setup.
    So far, I've only used rubber slicks, but I stick loads of neg-Camber up front (not measured - just as far as it will go!!!) and it works fine.
    I've got some sweet Hotworks wheels coming, which I plan to use with PVC pipe - but which it better???

    One thing I notice though - my D5 gets HOT! all that full throttle eats up my brushes too. (and no, I'm not getting a Brushless) Has anyone got any advice / similar setup?

    I will try and post pics as soon as me new wheels arrive (got a Murcielago body :twisted: )
    - is anyone else here from the UK? - or am I talking to a bunch of Yanky-doodles? hehehe
  2. Argitist

    Argitist Guest

    sweet i lust got an xxx s and don't know much about rc cars, though i have seen some other people from the uk but do you know if there are any okies here besides me. I cant wait till my car ships in. :wink:
  3. Onikyan

    Onikyan Guest

    See if you can find a Tamiya TA03F chassis. I have one and it's really cool. Unforunately I took it apart recently to put new bearings in and wire up a new ESC, so I'm drifting my TA03R (mid-engine). The TA03F chassis is the only chassis that had a front mount engine. That is good for two reasons - easier to drift because of the forward weight balance, and also allows for better cooling of the motor, because the motor is front mounted.

    The third reason is since it's an older chassis, they're generally cheap - I bought a TA03F chassis w/motor, suspension, and lexan body on ebay for less than $100.
  4. ash

    ash Guest

    Thanks but I'm gonna stick with my Hyper10 (spent way too much on it! - it was meant to be as cheap as poss...) Its a light weight chassis, but all the motor / batts weight is over the rear - I'm gonna try stiffer shocks at the back to counter this.

    No offence, but I don't like Tamiya - I think most of the chassis look like bricks and there's always way too much "give" on the moving parts -
    However - the TA03F looks mad - what a configuration!!! - do you have any pics of yours?

    Good point about older chassis = cheaper parts.
    I've not had any serious accidents yet but if something breaks, its not expensive to fix.... Has anyone managed to roll there car yet?
    methinks I'll give it a try - will need rubber tires and a good high speed run-up... maybe with a stiffer shock setup its easier to achieve?

    I guess you wouldn't want to roll an shiney new xxx s though...
  5. Yertle

    Yertle Guest

    I rolled my nitro basicly every time Ive taken it out, about the only way I get out of drift session without a roll over is if Ive broken something... :x

    Ive got a stock Kyosho V-one S with slick rubber on the back and tread on the front but I found that it was drifting fine on slicks all round. (Just couldnt control the more aggressive drift as well.) Brand new was about $700 here in Adelaide... it goes so hard cos the weight is heaps centered

    The only change Im intending on doing is getting a solid rear diff for it.

    PS. If anyone knows were to get Kyosho parts in area Adelaide (AUS), that doesnt take a month just to get a pull start or something, I would be stoaked!!!
  6. ash

    ash Guest

    yeah - I've locked up my rear diff, the rubber slicks I've used so far tend to find traction again pretty soon - so its hard to keep a drift going.

    I've got some new wheels today and I'm going to fit some PVC tube on them tomorrow - will see how that fares.

    I've seen a Tamiya FF02 today and was thinking of getting one - they have a very odd chassis - the motor is up front and its FWD. Do FWD cars drift better?
  7. Demoniac

    Demoniac Guest

    I think your motor is just waaaaay to fast. Anything faster than 19T seems overkill for drifting to me. So try to put in a slower engine, you'll see it works fine (especially with PVC).

    About the TA03F: got one myself and I must say it's great for drifting!
  8. Onikyan

    Onikyan Guest

    Good to see some TA03F bretheren!!
  9. NEOdrifter86

    NEOdrifter86 Guest

    GO for it

    Sweet where are those made at :D
  10. Im a fan of The TC3 but ive heard the TA03F is pretty good, any 4wd car can drift with PVC tires or electric tape.

    HowieLong, If your out there WE NEED to get that newbie forum in here that we had in the old forum.
  11. Onikyan

    Onikyan Guest

    Re: GO for it

    The TA03 chassis is made by Tamiya, a Japanese modeling and R/C company.
  12. WeAreNinja

    WeAreNinja Guest

    Agreed. Plus, you might invest in some more rims. The Hotworks wheels are really good for show, but disintegrate when driven too hard.
  13. ash

    ash Guest

    I know, they come with a warning - concourse only, but they look too fly...

    I'm definitely going to buy an FF02 now (its half the UK price if ordered from the States!!). not the kit though - the separate parts and hop-ups individually. I'll use that as my drift car, and leave the hyper10 for drag and saloon racing.
  14. shawnalex8

    shawnalex8 Guest

    bet i have the cheepest one in here
    i bought a hpi sprint off a freind of mine
    i payed 25 dollars for the car with 2 bodies
    40 for a novak rooster speed controll (used)
    it came with a 3000 pack and i bought one for 15
    and pvc
    ohh and 25 for a 15 turn havoc motor
    thats 105 total
    and im drifting
  15. Guest

    Ash, an 8 double isn't what you need for drifting bud, get a 27T stocker Trinity PK2 Pro or a Reedy, you're Drifting at 10-15 mph not tazzin' around at 40mph

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