Catenary Clinic

Discussion in 'HO Scale Model Trains' started by hudsonelectric, Apr 30, 2005.

  1. interurban

    interurban Active Member


    Great work Gary. Are you 20 scale ft from top of rail to wire. Or there abouts.:D

    With the close proximity of the support and space wire I bet the heat from the gun just traveled to fast for your liking eh Gary.

    You did a brilleant job with glue, as for weathering try a bit at a time as it`s easy to put on but hard to get off!.

  2. Gary Pfeil

    Gary Pfeil Active Member

    Thanks Chris! Yes, I'm an actual 3", so between 20 and 21 scale feet, I reckon. The pantograph on my GG! touched it, but probably not enough to run under it, I didn't want it to pop any joints when I pose it under the wires. Guess I'll be posing it on the front track mostly, as getting it to the rear one will be a trick!

    The soldering just beat me. I've soldered wires plenty, but had immense difficulty with this. My liquid flux may be old and need to be replaced, hadn't soldered in awhile. I was getting bad joints, the dolder wouldn't flow, it wasn't due to lack of heat. Solder would bead up and fall off. Or make big globs. Of course the wire not being firmly attached when trying the first connection made things more fun. I only had 8 lengths to do, by the end I had figured out to make a little jig to hold the other end of wire 3: high while I fastened the other end. I suppose if I built a bit more, I would get the hang of it. We'll never know!

    Thanks to all who offered advise previously, it was all very helpful!
  3. Ralph

    Ralph's for fun!

    That's amazing Gary! I am in awe!
  4. Harold Cole

    Harold Cole Member

    Gary, build it the way you want,and just to mention there were truss bridges with catanary.I've been involved in many disconnect of side branch lines that were set up just like that.
  5. Harold Cole

    Harold Cole Member

    Gary,great looking Catanary system.Can you get a couple of pic closer to the Cat system,one other thing the wires should be oxidized a bit more LOL.
  6. Gary Pfeil

    Gary Pfeil Active Member

    Thanks Ralph, and Harold. Harold, all the photos I find of the corridor show the bridges fine, but the wires can at best just be seen, they appear like they could be black. If you have a suggestion on proper appearance, I'd be glad to hear it.
  7. Gary Pfeil

    Gary Pfeil Active Member

    Oh, here is a close up

    Attached Files:

  8. Harold Cole

    Harold Cole Member

    Thats an AWSOME Pic.As for the wire being green(it's because of Oxidation the copper and brass).
  9. Harold Cole

    Harold Cole Member

    Looks like the real thing.
  10. green_elite_cab

    green_elite_cab Keep It Moving!

    oh man! i really want to get my catenary up soon! i've had alot of the stuff waiting for a while, but i'm still working on detailing other parts of my layouyt ( i don't want to have reach over the catenary and break it)

    I need to ask where you got the insulators, since they are a detail i need. did they come with a model memories' kit?

    i personally am probably going to break down ans order their kits soon. I don't think i could scratchbuilt the catenary even with rail to look that good. i might try and make a bridge with some spare rail i have lying around for the heck of it, to see how it looks.

    what kind of green do you have there? i was going to go for some penn central green, then the black wash.
  11. Gary Pfeil

    Gary Pfeil Active Member

    Hi Chris, yes, insulators come with Model Memories kits and are also sold seperately.

    In regard to the green, I did in fact use PC green, always have for that copper patina look. I kept adding white till I got what looked like a correct shade, I recommend adding green to white instead as I wound up with too much paint, underestimating how much white would be required. No need for a formula here, just add some green to a half bottle of white till it looks good.

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